Trent

A few pics:

The helo is an SH-60 out of NAS Whidbey Island. Occasionally the crews practice high altitude operations to ensure that they have the experience and knowledge to execute a rescue at that altitude.

It is the same area. According to my "guide book", there are 24 routes on the cliffs dating back to 1971, a few being multi-pitch, with a good probability of more having been established the past year. The crag is larger than Split Rock with easier access, and has some huge boulders for those of that persuasion.

Dallas Kloke has been exploring a new crag he calls Coal Mountain, located south of Hamilton and the Skagit on on the Finney-Cumberland road at about 3200' elevation. It has many moderate routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.10, but not much more harder than that. There is the potential for many more routes, however.

I'll be there! Beers on me at the Brown afterward!

We did not travel by it on the way up, but at our rate I would guess about four hours.

As per a phone conversation with the local Ranger, it is washed out at Hard Creek, approximately eight miles prior to the Eldorado TH.

Saw this line this weekend just north of Paul Bunyans Stump and wondered if it had been climbed. "Washington Ice" has rumours of ice in the area but nothing described. There were a few more lines ranging from WI2 to mixed close by. Perhaps the future site of the Washington Ice Festival? The line is at the far lower left of the preceding photo at the toe of the (almost) extinct Colonial Glacier.

Thanks for the info. With the Cascade River Road washed out, we decided to check out the North Face of Pyramid instead. For those interested, its not in.

Anyboby have any beta about a couloir on the north east aspect of Mixup peak that would be a good winter outing?

Trip: Eldorado - NW Face Couloir Date: 11/5/2007 Trip Report: For those interested in the conditions, Scott and I climbed the NW Face Couloir on Eldorado on Monday. The recent warm rain followed by cool clear weather made the climbing conditions excellent. The steep approach on Sunday took us 5 ½ hours to our camp on the Inspiration Glacier. The next morning we started marching at 0715, traversing across the east face on a frozen crust and descending a gully at the col to the immediate north of the North Ridge. We down-climbed a bit, then did two 30M rappels to get us into the North Cirque (See Alpinist David for further enlightenment). The climbing in the couloir was steep snice punctuated by steps of WI3 ice. The rock was mostly rimed and verglassed over, so rock pro was pretty scarce. It reminded me of pictures that I have seen of Scottish winter climbing, except that we were not making any frozen turf sticks. The climbing was very enjoyable with good body weight sticks the whole way up. We topped out four hours after starting, and went camp to camp in 7 ½ hours. Easy travel on the glacier Rapping into the northern cirque The route Belaying Following An ice step Fun! Topping out Gear Notes: Brought a light alpine rack, four screws, and two pickets. Could’ve used less rock pro and more pickets. Approach Notes: Trail free of snow to 6000 feet. Snow conditions were good early in the day with easy travel on a frozen rain crust.

Anyone interested in Outer Space on Friday before the weather caves in (again)?

Trip: Minuteman Tower - East Face, 5.8 Date: 9/13/2007 Trip Report: On Thursday, Dallas, Kevin and I climbed the East Face of Minuteman Tower. There are some excellent trip reports published, so I won't belabor the details. We climbed the standard route for the first four pitches, but bypassed the 5.10 pitch on the headwall. We traversed right (north) about fifteen feet from the start of the 5.10 hand crack to a low angle squeeze chimney and exited it over a small roof to the start of the excellent 5.8 hand crack. Dallas led this pitch, and it felt like 5.6 on second, although it was somewhat awkward. The hand crack was well worth the climb. It was Dallas' 68th birthday, and the third time he had climbed the route. Steve Gear Notes: Standard alpine rack to #2 camalot. Approach Notes: No snow.

Mark: I have not read “The Rock Warrior’s Way”, but regularly climb with a 67 year old. He is still putting up new rock routes in the low tens, and some of his alpine leads have haired me out on second. In other words, I don’t think that age will keep you from improving your climbing. Good headspace and the physical ability to apply it can be used well into your golden years. Just look at Fred.

Steph: We followed you the next day on Challenger. We entered the Range via the no-brush option by climbing over Whatcom Peak via the North Ridge. I would recommend this approach as an elegant route to access the North Pickets. We then made an aborted attempt on Crooked Thumb, climbed Challenger, Fury (east peak), Luna, then exited via Access Creek. Access Creek was not brushy by North Cascades standards, and almost had a trail in places. Sorry your trip did not turn out as planned

The Becky's route description says the big chockstone is 3/4 of the way up the couloir to the notch. It was hard to tell from our viewpoint, but according to my altimeter (which has lied to me before), we had about 150 feet to the notch.

Trip: Liberty Bell - East Face Couloir Date: 5/30/2007 Trip Report: Dallas, Scott and I tried the East Face Couloir on Liberty Bell last Wednesday. We were looking for something different in the area that had an alpine feel to it. We planned to climb the couloir and finish it with either the Becky Route or the South Face / Overexposure Route. Becky describes the couloir as hidden away and little known, so we got suckered in. The first ascent was put up by Roskelly in July 1968. The route starts in the gully to the south of Liberty crack and climbs the couloir to the notch between Liberty Bell and Concord Tower. We combined the first two pitches, which climb rock to the left side of a wet overhanging chimney. Becky describes these as 5.7, but it was a scrappy, full contact 5.7. We then continued up the gully overcoming a few minor rock steps and some water ice. The final obstacle was a large chockstone that is bypassed by climbing the vertical face on the left side of the gully to two aid bolts, and then aiding around the chockstone. What we could not see until it was too late was that this pitch was overhung by a large hang fire cornice that seemed supported by nothing. To make matters worse, the wall to the bolts, which looked to be the original manky quarter-inchers, was dripping wet, and we would have had to tunnel through or climb over the cornice to complete the route. We decided that this was not included in our plan for the day and bailed here, rapping and downclimbing the route. Our good karma vibes kept the cornice in place and allowed us to exit the couloir unscathed to quaff a few barley pops at the car. It was an interesting outing on something different at Washington Pass. Recommend waiting until the cornice has cut loose. Approching the gully The first pitch Upper snow slopes Dallas still the rope gun at 67 Our final pitch The make or break pitch. We broke. Gear Notes: Two tools, a full alpine rack, no screws needed at this time of year. Bring pins for pro and aid on the final pitch. Approach Notes: Thirty minutes from the car.

I left my Lowa Civetta plastic shell boots at the Denny Creek Trail Head after the recent SAR effort for the lost snow-shoer. If found, please PM.

An excellent, entertaining TR. Keep em coming!

Weather permitting, anyone up for Luna or other North Picket peaks mid to late September? PM me if interested.

Jens: Sitting here in Iraq dreaming of the Cascades. Please keep the reports coming; I something to take my mind off of the sandstorms.

For trad climbs try Starr Wall on the Malamute, there are enough cracks here for an afternoon. On the Apron, "St Vitus' Dance" and "Rock On" are good choices. "Rock On" goes at 10a, but that is the final pitch with great pro.

Nice TR! How was the rap off of the summit? Eight years ago it was off of a single manky pin that flexed when weighted.

Climb: Johannesberg-East Ridge Date of Climb: 6/22/2006 Trip Report: Dallas Kloke and I climbed Johannesberg Mountain on Thursday the 22nd. It was Dallas’ seventh time on the summit, once via a new route. This has got to be some sort of a record. We started from the gate below Cascade Pass at 0500, proceeded up the road to the hairpin turn just below the parking lot. We dropped our tennis shoes there, donned the boots and made our way up the CJ couloir to the col where we dropped the bivy gear. Dallas quickly found the third class gulley to climb in the reduced visibility, which took us to the snow slopes which lead to the East Ridge. We followed the ridge which consisted of mostly easy scrambling on loose rock to the summit. This took us seven and a half hours from the car. This summit was especially significant for me. Three years ago, I had my finger badly broken by rock-fall while climbing the CJ couloir. Two plates, six pins, and three surgeries later, I own the worlds most expensive but somewhat range of motion limited finger. At least it is not the middle finger; I get allot of use out of that one. The descent of the route was tedious, requiring some careful scrambling along the ridge, and belayed down-climbing of the steep snow on the East face. A final rap found us down at the CJ col thirteen hours after leaving the car. After a gorgeous bivy at the CJ col, we bagged the Southwest Peak of the Triplets on the way out. Instead of taking “Doug’s Direct”, we descended a gully just to the West of Mixup Peak. With only one rope, we were forced to construct several rap anchors in the bad rock. Two ropes would have taken us all the way to boot skiing territory on established anchors. This exit was much quicker than “Doug’s Direct”, and deposited us well below Cascade Pass with no scrambling required. We were not quite done yet. A route finding error led us to a wet cliff above a waterfall. A quick rap let us down to the snow and to the road, which was now open. For Dallas’ trip report and a few pictures, check out http://skagitalpineclub.com/Newsletters/Johannesburg%20TR.htm Gear Notes: Four pickets, no rock pro required Approach Notes: Snow conditions good in the couloir and on the mountain.

Yes I would. The views back to Liberty Bell and Silver Star were great, and no crowds to deal with. Dallas has been up there five or six times.