KaskadskyjKozak

a dolt with bolts? sorry, couldn't resist...

hmmmm i'm not sure you'd get a lot of disagreement with those, would you? add angora grotto to that list while you're at it, and i'd be happier. i've never met anyone who agreed with the retro bolting of cunning stunt; it pisses me off that it has bolts, when it's a great trad climb. any idea who keeps re-bolting it? anyways, that' a pretty short list, right? hardly something to get all worked up about.... i don't think we in washington have areas as sensitive as say joshua tree, where overbolting creates an eye-sore in a really special place. our crags are pretty isolated and generally pretty chossy and only visited by climbers (ok sure leavenworth is possibly an exception, but i don't notice chalk and bolts when driving through, unlike j tree). I visited Smith Rock twice - once before I ever climbed. I was driving home from Crater Lake with the family and wanted to picnic somewhere, saw the rocks on the horizon and thought "hey, I wonder if we can find a place to eat near those cool rocks". We parked at the higher lot and ate, then hiked around a bit. I didn't notice any bolts at all. Or chains. Anything. I only knew it was a climbing place because as we were about to leave a pair topped off a route right near us. The other places I have cragged - 11 worth, Vantage, Erie, and Tieton. Well, I've generally not seen many folks hiking up there other than climbers to 'appreciate the rock'. (yes, I know these are "trad" places with just some bolted routes - never mind the bolts and chains topping some routes) I'm not saying that there is not unnecessary bolting out there or that it's a good thing to add more bolts to our parks and wilderness areas, but I'm unconvinced that this is the HUGE problem that some posters are saying it is.

What about a "bolts someplaces" standard? That's what I am comfortable with, and you? Just how many folks here are actually putting in bolts? All the moderators? Just Bill Coe? I certainly have never put one in (nor ever plan to)

Your post is about ss much 'serious discussion' as I've seen on this thread or any started by Raindawg. So, you want to remove "chicken bolts". What else? Rap or belay anchors? Old crusty pitons stuck on routes? And is this "cleanup" limited to just cragging areas like Smith Rock, or are you going to do it (or advocated doing it) on popular peaks as well?

I always thought you liked Minx the best

this is something new?

True. OTOH, I would maintain that many bolted areas are places nobody would ever visit (up and close) to "appreciate the rock". Take the Far Side at exit 38 as one example. Raindawg's profile gives his location as "exit 39" - an interesting choice for a location to focus his anti-bolting feelings on (or just sport-climber mockery).

What does he have to say about bolting?

so true

So go grid-bolt Index Mr "fucking" sound-bite What a joke. The "sound bites" I hear on this topic come from the broken record anti-bolt nazis.

If I clip a fixed piton or stuck piece of pro, is that sport climbing? What if I use chains for a belay anchor or to rap down a route (e.g. Beckey/Liberty Bell)? Does that make me a "sporto"? Is it unethical? Never mind, I don't give a flying fuck.

When did you start up? If you did sub 6 hours, yeah, pretty damn impressive.

Then start one. Raindawg's thread is not a discussion.

We saw them descending. Yes, 2 teams of 6 per rope. That's not a big deal since you can walk around rope teams. They are only slowing themselves down. A group of 12 in a bottleneck like the S face gully sucks for other parties.

The post was not about "discussion" just a flame, and nothing was proposed by the thread's originating author.

This thread is a troll - look at the first post. It was meant to start shit, and doesn't really belong in this forum to begin with.

I've been up Sahale twice. I'd love to make a run up the NE ridge of Black sometime.

You're an equivocating dumbshit w/o the requisite cognitive ability to make distinctions of position in those with who you disagree. You parsing anything would be akin to a monkey mixing alphabet wood blocks with his latest steaming pile. WOW! Someone got out the Roget's! Care to find out the statute for me? Or would you rather just masturbate on your thesaurus? Coming up next on "When Faux-Libertarians Can't Figure Out Who is Talking to Whom":... WTF? Hey, Kevbone got a hold of Alkyteke's password!

I've heard the rockfall on Mixup is atrocious. I can personally attest to that. While waiting on a ledge I took a fist sized rock on my right quad that broke the material on my pants and skin. Big frickin' welt too. But he must like it; he listed it twice! It was high on my tick list until I heard several similar stories. If I bag it it will be as a team of 2 that moves well on loose shit. :-)

so, how did Stuart go?

I've heard the rockfall on Mixup is atrocious.

hey, another potential ass-rapist on a forced bivy. you should climb with pink - Kbone says he likes that ;-)

How is route-finding on that one? Straightforward enough? Yes, very straight foward. Jump on the ridge at the low spot near the toe and go up. We found the hardest climbing at 5.6 to be very low down when bypassing a gendarme/tower feature. For its grade it is one of the best alpine tours in the range IMHO. perfectly doable in August? I am getting tempted here... :-)

I figured Kevbone's accumulated inanity created a singularity which sucked the server into a time-space vortex from which not even light could escape. I guess he needs to add a few more posts before that will happen.