KaskadskyjKozak

Trip: Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier Date: 7/26/2009 Trip Report: There's been plenty of TRs for this route, so I'll give a conditions report, some mountain pron, and comment on our experience with the thunderstorm "showers". The route is in great shape right now. Only a few crevasses are opening up and they are easily avoided. This is one of the most mellow and benign glaciers I've been on. We had t-storms in our forecast - 30% chance of "showers" after 11 am on Sat and before 11 pm Sun. We got a fairly early start on Sat and got to camp at around 12:30. We pitched our tent and bivies and enjoyed the sun while it lasted. At around 5 or so clouds were rolling in so I decided to make dinner while I could. The drizzle turned to full-on rain, followed by 35 mph gusts of wind, horizontal, pea-sized hail, and a complete whiteout. My water was only luke-warm, my stove blew out and I was soaked. Fortunately the rain stopped long enough for me to scarf up my luke-warm Mountain House, and the wind acted like a giant cold-air restroom hand-dryer, blowing my shell jacket and pants completely dry. Seeing the next "round" on its way in the sky, I snapped a few photos and went to bed at 6:30. My partners had already long-since sequestered themselves in their shelters, sacrificing a hot-dinner, but peeking out to snap photos here and there. The rain came and went a couple of times that night. And we were socked in at 2 am. Fortunately by 3:30 am it was clear out and we slowly got up and were roped up and ready to go at 5:30. The weather from then on out was PERFECT. One other item of note - there was almost NO summit gully clusterf****! We arrived at 7:30 and the first wave of summitters were leaving. We went up, had the summit almost to ourselves, then left just in time for the next group. We had heard that the previous day (Sat morning) there had been a 24-person back-up at the pyramid, including a 12 person (WTF???) party. Angry skies after the first squall: A different story at dawn: The last snow patches at the pyramid: The Sulphide: Summit Pron: Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet for gully. Approach Notes: Snow free until 5400'. Spotty until 6100'. Bugs horrendous below snow-line.

Nope. I read your response. Did you actually listen to Obama's statement before you pronounced it a "knee jerk reaction?" Lets parse the words. The whole thing. Yeah, let's "parse" every fucking word. We can start with the word "is" and determine what the meaning of it is.

Well the extra summit well, it would look good on my rep, as for chasing poon... what is that? You may know her better as Ms. Tang.

linky

I hope they're selling the cultivated weed to medical marijuana patients, or at least giving it out for "free" as part of the new health care coverage.

You can solo the Cascadian. People will be coming down it all afternoon (and night) from the summit descending other climbs. Better yet, hike Mt. Pugh.

linky

Let him try it. After an (partial?) ascent of the Cascadian he may give up this "climbing" idea.

I had chicken tetrazzini for dinner tonight. It was quite tasty.

there is only so much three or four functioning synapses can accomplish... and kevbone doesn't even have that much horsepower in his cranium

why are you encouraging boner to post?

Neither have I. asshat Nice!

[video:youtube]mMorZnGxhv4

if she was texting you for a booty call, would it have been OK?

big brother will take care of us all, FW.

wax on, wax off

They were probably "on route" for P2/3. I think we went too far to the right.

Why climb at any crag? You have a rotten attitude.... Tell you what……how about this. Come on down….if you send this route first try on lead or top rope. I will not post on cc.com for 6 months. How is that? Dru, I'll chip in $25 for gas if you make the trip

for the company... kevbone would be your belay bitch

12 locking biners and 12 non-lockers per team of 3? That's some hauling system you must be planning for. ;-)

never rule out the game!

Those at the 10th %ile in the US live better than 90% of the rest of the world.

yes, I've seen those. coloring alone is not sufficient, but the poster claims he saw a prominent hump.

Exactly. Congratulations on this epiphany of self-realization which everyone else here noted about you coming up on five years ago.

The moon is not a hoax. I can show it to you. And if you don't believe in black holes...