KaskadskyjKozak

whatever, comrade.

That has never been anything to "wonder" about; we all know where he stands w/r/t to freedom ("imagine a boot on a human face").

Yes. You are certifiably insane.

whatever it is, do it quickly. it's all a downward slope from here on out

how did Hell's Highway look? Still easy to downclimb and few crevasses?

It's almost the weekend. You can wake up then!

Indeed! Bugger off!

it depends on the terrain and conditions. and I assume you mean placing pro (pickets) not building anchors. If you anchored and belayed for every crevasse, you'd never get up half the glacier routes in the cascades. my condolences to the family on this unfortunate tragedy

j_b's self-delusional myth that he has any grasp on reality

I just think he could possibly be a nice person if he'd stop being such a mean spirited- projecting attack assclown on about every thread he posts on. .... nah. Maybe not. The dude has major OCD - all he can talk about is his myopic worldview on economic systems. I also suspect Asperger's or some kind of autism. I think professional counseling is in order.

projection...

go pound sand Go pound sand? What the hell does that mean? Discuss. Let's get back on topic. J_B is a cum-gargling left-wing nutjob fucktard. What else can we say about that waste of skin?

go pound sand

you mean other than the fact that half the threads are started by that fucktard, dick-gobbler j_b, who thinks this is his left-wing, political soap-box?

Endorsing a genocide on the basis that the victims are Muslim (as FW did) is indisputably islamophobic. "Endorsing?" Not at all. But it's understandable that innocents are killed when Islamists stage hit-and-run attacks and then hide behind their own women and children. Placing a missile battery on top of an occupied apartment building in Beirut and then crying about its subsequent destruction by the IDF is an example that comes to mind, but Rob's sad picture is probably a product of the aforementioned tactic. Newsflash: we kill innocents too. Probably did it today. Somewhere in Northwestern Pakistan. Listen up you deepshit. What's going on in in Chechnia started back in 18th & 19th century. During 1940's entire villages were sent to Siberia or Kazakhstan. The only reason this region become muslim in the first place was to seek Ottoman Empire protection from Russian expansion in the region. So your comparison is way off base and in generally (and as usual) you are just full of shit. YEAH!! TAKE THAT "DEEPSHIT"!!!!

...jizz-gargling assclown. discuss.

Please try to shut the fuck up.

Yeah, I suppose one would just be a bigot, not much of a step up the social evolutionary ladder though. How does that work with Jews? I mean, it can be an ethnicity, but it can also merely be a religious choice. So disparaging Judaism is not racist, right? It isn't even anti-Semitic since one could feel quite differently about their secular friends of Jewish extraction. I recall a friend telling me that his Mom wouldn't let them tell "Pollack" jokes back when those were making the rounds, because ethnicity wasn't something that anyone had any control over. However, as a UT grad, the jokes were perfectly fine with her if they changed "Pollack," to "Aggie," since people made a conscious choice to be Aggies. Religions are systems of ideas that result in patterns of behavior. At some point, people choose to adopt religious ideas and patterns of behavior and become accountable for both. You don't really believe that religious beliefs or the behaviors that they inspire in some of their adherents renders them exempt from criticism or scrutiny, you? In the case of Judaism, however, ethnicity is often the basis for self-identification, not practicing religious belief.

Nice work, Tom! I'd love to do this route someday... if I can sack up, that is.

So be it then, obviously I fall far behind you in the insulting game although you still remain a mean spirited dumbass and a Fuckwit. Another quality exchange which you have initiated. Assmunch. Hey, I'm getting better at this. If it keeps up, maybe in a year I can play in your league you loathsome bleeding hemorrhoid! if you think that your inane profanities are going to prevent me from calling the games played by regressives the way I see them, you are even more naive than I thought. Get a fucking life already.

My camera battery was dead so all pics are from others. :-/

It's also worth remembering that besides cherry picking data you have never, ever shown that anything other than your voodoo economics and your wall street casino are responsible for the fiscal and economic crisis we are in. More vocabulary for j_b BINGO!

Interesting. The Nelson-Potterfield-described approach definitely mentions some obligatory 'schwacking to go left under a cliff band before getting into the open alpine terrain.

How much bushwhacking is involved in the correct, flagged trail? Up high we found one talus field with a single cairn, and lower down we ran into a boot path going up on what looked like cross-country terrain. We only hit a "real" trail at about 3100 foot elevation.

Trip: Torment - South Ridge Date: 7/25/2010 Trip Report: I've been wanting to climb Forbidden really badly this year, and was all set for the trip. I checked with the Marblemount Ranger Station maybe Wednesday and they said there were still four open slots for Boston Basin. I figured if I drove up on Friday after work (leave 4 pm), I'd be good. Not. Some gnarly traffic kept me from getting there until 7:15, but, in the end it was to no avail. All six slots were gone, and four slots were taken up by guided groups, who, apparently can register in advance of a day, not as walk-ins. So, on to plan B, Torment. I know there are many ways up Torment, but thought either the S ridge or the SE face would be best for my skills and my first run up there. However the melting/moating snow, and risk of accident up on the Taboo glacier, especially now, swung me towards the S ridge (both to ascend and descend). So, permit-less, I contacted my climbing partners about the change of venue and agreed to meet them at the Eldorado TH at 9 am on Sat. One of my partners seemed to prefer the idea of the steep, "unaesthetic" trail up Torment Basin, so we parked at the turnout, found what appeared to be the start of the trail and headed up. The "trail" disappeared almost immediately. We searched for about 30 minutes, zig-zagging uphill until I called this out as stupid, and we went back to the cars and drove up to the Boston Basin TH instead. Good call! Within two hours we were in the full alpine glory that is the Boston Basin! We chatted with some friends who were descending from Forbidden, and began our long, beautiful traverse - highly recommended! We mostly traversed snow, with a brief scramble along a waterfall, and, another section of scrambling to the ridge separating the Boston and Torment basins. As we passed the Taboo glacier, we thought that it did indeed look gnarly - a bit broken up around the rock, with a moat. The S ridge it would be. We also briefly entertained the idea of camping here and climbing Forbidden, but opted to continue on. We expected to see a tent city up under Forbidden. Despite the fact that it was 2pm, we saw nobody there at all. Where are these guided groups? The weather was perfect - well maybe a bit too hot in the 5 pm sun, but we set up a tarp for cover. Great views, and they were there at night too, with a full moon. We had the place all to ourselves. We got up at 5 am and were moving by 6. The snow leading up to the notch in the S ridge was quite hard and icy, and thin around the rock to boot, with a deep moat awaiting a punch-through fall. We carefully gained the rock in crampons and scrambled the gnarly gully to an anchor and roped up. It was about 7:30 and already warming. The first pitch was quite fun, then we started traversing left. Despite reading a warning about not climbing too high while traversing, we ended up doing it anyways. The "mistake" might have cost us some time, but in the end we ended up climbing some fun 5.6-ish stuff, and then just having to do a 50 foot rappel into the final, wide gully that leads to the "prominent notch" in the S ridge. This consumed a total of 5-6 pitches with the last one being more like class 4. KK on belay: It was all worth it, however. That summit is absolutely wonderful. The views of the Inspiration Glacier, as well as Forbidden, and the TFT route are spectacular! From the notch we simulclimbed some exposed sections over the SE face, then unroped and scrambled to the summit. It was 3 pm when my partner and I summited and maybe 3:30 when the other two guys got there. Crazy Nelson on the summit: We reversed our steps, which, unfortunately was not too fast. We had to mix downclimbing pitches while placing pro with rappels. One rappel took me to an anchor that was too shaky for my taste - old tat notwithstanding. I ended up going a full 200 feet on my single strand, bending around a corner to get to a nice station. Everyone rappelled to here (setting up the second rope), and we belayed one guy out a bit to do the rope pull with a better angle. The first rope cleared but the second stuck. So, we untied the first rope and set up another rappel, while our partner upclimbed, placing pro, and moving a prusik to clear the other rope. That burned some time. We did another single rope rap, downclimbed a half-pitch, then did two more single rope rappels to the base of the climb. By now it was 8:30 pm and when we got to camp we either could hike out in the dark and then drive home until the wee hours of the morning, or we could just crash for an extra night. We chose the latter, despite one partner really wanting to bushwhack and forest crash the Torment Basin by headlamp. Fortunately, he did not hold it against us and shared his 1 lb can of SPAM with us. I have not eaten SPAM since I was about 12, and it sure tasted better than I remembered it. Today we got up, packed up, and headed down around 6. We opted to go straight down the unaesthetic Torment Basin since it would be nice to compare it to the other approach. Well, it sucks. I guess we can have wanna-be-hardman points for bushwhacking through slide alder and devil's club, as well as sidehilling shit that pushed my tolerance threshold. Eventually - and I mean at about 3100 foot elevation - we actually found, and stuck to, a climber's trail. Near the bottom it hit a log that we obviously had missed 2 days earlier. Over this log was the end of the trail, the one we had previously "explored". Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet. Small alpine rack, lots of double slings, climbing boots suffice. Approach Notes: Boston Basin Traverse = spectacular! Torment Basin = brutal and unnecessary!