KaskadskyjKozak

When did you climb this route, Kevin?

Trip: Triumph - NE Ridge Date: 8/15/2010 Trip Report: Last year, Mountainguy01 and I tried to climb Triumph and got denied a permit, and had to opt for Black Peak instead. So this year we were more careful. We called on Friday to be sure a slot was open then got to the ranger station before opening. :-) Despite an early wakeup we did not mind our early start as the temperatures rose quickly. By the time we go to the ridge above Thornton Lakes, the heat was becoming oppressive and only got worse. Despite this MG01 seemed to not be phased. I gradually began to eat more and more shit. I arrived at the col just over 5 hours in, a bit behind MG01. KK eating shit on the approach: We opted for a bivy camp at the col. There was plenty of fresh running water. Views were great as it was a bluebird day. Neither MG01 or I wanted to miss work on Monday, so we discussed a real early wakeup (3 am). 3 am came, and MG01 called out "hey, what do you think... it's pretty dark out". Snooze for 30 min. "It's still looking dark out". Snooze for 30. OK, time to get up. We made quick work of the snow field with only some issues sidehilling the steep, icy snow out of camp (with downward sloping sun cups and bad runout). Crampons were required here. We stuck almost 100% of snow with just a rock island or two and ended up on the ramp system below the notch and to the right of the gully. We scrambled class 3 to the notch, and roped up there. We opted to use rock shoes and were glad for it on the way up. View back to the col: We climbed the bottom and middle parts of the route with alternating running belays. This made for efficient climbing and brought us to the final tower fairly early (9 or so). We then belayed a pitch up to the off-width (I led), and then the off width itself (MG01 led). The offwidth protected well and was a hell of a lot of fun (albeit short). After that we simulclimbed to the summit. Simulclimbing above the first step: KK leading: KK belaying: MG01 leading: All in all it took us 6 hours from camp to summit, so we were feeling pretty good. Summit stoke: Then came the rappels. I lost count how many we did... maybe 8. It seemed like I got in a season's worth of yelling/hearing "on rappel, rope, off rappel" in one day. For a long section in the middle, we just scrambled unroped. Three and a half hours later we were back at the snow, feeling baked like Thanksgiving turkeys in a rotisserie, or maybe beef jerky. The views were wonderful all the way up and down of course. Rappeling the NE ridge: More rappelling... the views are glorious! I had a liter of gatorade in my pack. We chugged more water melting off the glacier/snow fields. It was not enough. I dipped my head in the pools, washed my face off. The relief was short-lived every time. The steep snow below camp was a little softer, but still icy even after a lot of afternoon sun exposure (now in shade again). It was not too bad however, but definitely good to have crampons on for. KK looking back at the route: We relaxed briefly at camp and headed down around 4:30. The lower we got, the worse the heat was. You could not keep ahead of it by chugging water. 4 hours later, with dusk setting in we got to the cars. My feet repeatedly, and more forcefully yelled "f*** you a-hole" the longer the day went on. Sorry, feet! All the Marblemount spots were closed by the time we drove out, so it was salty chips and a coke for me. It was a toss-up whether the flat trail/road hiking or the drive home sucked more. But the great summit day made it worth it all! Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, and small alpine rack, with cams up to BD #3. Rock shoes make it fun. Approach Notes: Hot. Damn hot.

A bear will most likely try to mate with you, Sobo ;-)

Yes, but check slides 17 & 32.

she is still a HPOA

Can you blame him? Look what they put up with! linky...

They already pay more you moron.

Thanks man. It's a backup this w/e if we can't get a permit for our first choice.!

How protectable are they? Or is it just scrambling?

When your left-wing enviro nuts post pics of the planet at night showing N. America all lit up as case-in-point of our profligate energy consumption, I'm sure you'll have the same response. Oh, yeah, consistency is not your strong suit, is it.

you're a stupid, suppurating, syphilitic cunt Grow up friend. You should try responding without calling anyone names. Just a thought. Take care and have a great day! Give me a break. Name calling is GGK's modus operandi. Look at the title of his thread - case in point.

Sounds good! We need to be consuming less energy! Be Green!

you're a stupid, suppurating, syphilitic cunt

Canadian Beer:Real Beer::Canadian Whiskey:Single Malt Scotch

Who doesn't want to puke when they are in an offwidth?

Yes. j_b

"The Forest Service has said it will review signage and consider ways to raise awareness of the dangers on the trail as well as the ice caves." I remember the signage being really clear. Nevertheless many people approach the caves (leaving the clearly marked end of trail with warnings not to do so) - myself included. Very sad.

whatever, comrade.

That has never been anything to "wonder" about; we all know where he stands w/r/t to freedom ("imagine a boot on a human face").

Yes. You are certifiably insane.

whatever it is, do it quickly. it's all a downward slope from here on out

how did Hell's Highway look? Still easy to downclimb and few crevasses?

It's almost the weekend. You can wake up then!

Indeed! Bugger off!