TrogdortheBurninator

Nice speed edit there Harry.

Amazonia is usually fine if it has been recently dry, but starts raining (IE today). Sustained rain leads to a lot of seepage.

If it is Burgundy, it is a different variation than I climbed. Maybe it is Clean Break. Or maybe another wine spire. I guess Pernod.

Should be readily available in Seattle. Check Feathered Friends, 2nd Ascent, Pro Mountain Sports, or Stone Gardens. Maybe call ahead first so you waste less time. I think the gas station in Vantage might still have it too.

from UWCC board http://uw.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=15124

Don't worry Foraker, I understood your humor. I would have thought this - "Some people might use it incorrectly though like for helping them summit or getting past that tricky crux.... " - was a give away.

Nice work. Way to protect the identity of the quilty.

If you are checking your bags, gear is fine. I don't know how they are with carry-ons, I can imaginie it being a pain in the ass.

I have tried Dru's approach on some occasions and like it, although I am not as used to it as I am racking gear on the sling. FWIW - I usually rack bigger cams on my harness (#3 BD and larger), draws on my harness, and smaller cams on the sling. I also find that I prefer the way regular gear slings (I have BD) carry vs the metolious loopy slings. To wallstein: while we all aspire to carry less gear, I am not sure that this is the best advice for a new leader. New leaders should be sewing up their climbs and trying to minimize the need for tricky placements because they didn't bring the proper gear.

I had one of the original avalungs and didnt use it much due to convenience. As the design has improved I have become interested in them again. The new ones that are integrated into a BD pack seem like a big step forward in useability. The way I see it, the more ways you can stack the odds in your favor the better. MisterMo, I understand your invincibilty argument, but don't think it is a good mentality. Why is an avalung any more likely to provide this feeling of invincibilty than a beacon, shovel or probe?

That pillar looks sweet. Very nice pics.

Hey Lucky, I climbed a route with your name scratched into the hangers down at riverview park on saturday. Route started steep and ended at a left facing corner/crack. Couldn't find it in the yoder book, but a rock below it had 10C written in chalk. Nice route, good fun. Personally I think the bolted climbs below sunshine and west of sunshine are way more fun than those on sunshine. I always have fun at vantage and the overbolted sport climbs and soft grades are great for getting your early season head going. I also always enjoy the nose up my ass trad climbs, but the pro always sketches me out a little.

Gary=Too Slow

Regarding rope length, that is what I remembered Matt. It seemed pretty logical to belay where you did. fading memory translator PIYP=Party in Your Pants CTT=Crossing the Threshhold TUIB=Tangled up in Blue PK=Pony Keg SG=Steel Grille AG=Air Guitar G&M=George and Martha

That's "patience a virtue is"

Air Guitar was the grade that really grabbed my attention. One grade soft usually seems about right for vantage, but two is getting really soft. I think most of us consider LW/Index grades to be about right, with index being maybe a hair stiffer on average. Comparing Air Guitar to P1 Lizard, P1 Canary, or even Classic Crack, maybe 5.8 isn't too far off. I have only followed Air Guitar, so my analysis could be a bit off. BTW, I think P1 Canary is a little stiff for 5.8, but definitely in line with general Castle grades and not vastly harder than most other LW 5.8s. Can you really top out canary in one pitch from Saber ledge? We did it as three pitches when I climbed it.

Came across this site. What does everybody think about these grades. http://www.fivenineclimber.com/cragging/northwest_cragging/vantage_gradedlist.htm

It was super windy at vantage on saturday night (luckliy we were sleeping in our van and the wind mostly died by morning). It was nice to see a bunch of people out on the rock. We climbed at riverview park/point on saturday afternoon and at sunshine wall on sunday. Pretty casual weekend, but a goodtime nonetheless. Unfortuneately my friend Aaron tweaked his shoulder first climb of the day on sunday. More photo onslaught fun with GIFS

I used to always use orange, but my most recent pair is rose. I tried some o fmy old orange goggles the other day and did not like them as much as the rose. I have never really been in to the whole changing goggles as conditions change thing.

You forgot Beaver Patrol and Muff Diver!

that didnt show right, now i deleted the g from jpg to demonstrate

the link needs to jave the .jpg file, not the webpage i put in extra w in the www to demonstrate

My wife and I are heading out to Vantage this weekend. Wondering if anybody wants to carpool out there with us. We have a ton of space, and would love to share gas with somebody. We'll probably leave seattle around 8:30AM. You dont have to hang out with us while you're there, but you are welcome to if you'd like. Jason

Lots of new stuff added.