kadyakerbob

Thinking about heading up to hood friday night or saturday. the weather should be nice saturday. and even if its not the snow conditions right now are perfect.

I know the conditions wont be great this weekend in terms of weather but i still would like to get out. I am down to either driver up North and do something in the snoqualamie area (NY Gully, Pineapple express, Chair peak ect...) or Slog up somthing on hood. N.side, yocum doesnt really matter. Conditions wont be great but no shame in giving somthing a try. Anyone who has ample experience and likes to suffer please email me by friday. My regular partner has 2 back to back Acongagua trips so i am partnerless for the next month or so!

If your still looking to climb i would be down to meet up friday night and climb somthing. I wouldnt mind doing new york Gully again. Their are a few other routes to the left of NY gully that i hear are good to? let me know.

I have a pair of black diamond cobras that are basically brand new, I have another pair of tools that i have been using so i would like to sell these cobras for $350 obo. Its a great deal! i live in portland and could ship them so just email me at rpool1@hotmail.com if you are interested.

Actually after looking at your pictures, i am pretty sure some ice did melt. And actually quite a bit of snow was lost. I will post our pictures tomorrow, so everyone can see. But the climb was still ok. Maybe not as difficult as everyone says, just a little run out on crap rock. Did you guys pick up the bootie from the guys who rapped off a few weeks ago? because we didnt see any of it. They said they left a red camalot.

good job guys, Eben and i actually climbed new york gully on sunday. Except a whole bunch of ice must have melted we didnt have hardly any ice thicker than a quarter inch. But i Dropped a tool maybe two pitches from the top and we ended up having to rap off but i found my tool on a ledge below the dead tree so that was good.

here are the pictures for our trip report from a few weeks ago. These go along with the trip report for the north face, left gully. For some reason we didnt manage to get any good pictures. Sorry!

Thanks guys for the beta, yeah it should be a fun time. I love running stuff out! Hopefully all goes well, if i see any of your bootie i'll try to get it for ya. cheers.

Good question, i was wondering just that. Has anyone been up there lately and tested the conditions? I am contemplating either that or new york gully for this coming sunday. Should be clear but will the snow be firm and the ice solid?.....

nice job! I was thinking about heading up there this weekend and was wondering what sort of gear you guys used? I have a rough idea but i would like to bring minimal gear. Also about how long was the hike to the base?

interestingly enough, the north side routes do not have as much snow as one would think. For instance all the ice flowing off of cooper spur looked great! I thought with all the snow that stuff might be buried but there didnt seem to be a great deal of snow. The left couloir still had quite a bit of rock showing and it looked as if the right couloir was even more bear. But still good! A little warm weather and then a cold streak will make the whole mountain happy.

Trip: Mt. Hood - North Face/ Left Chute Date: 1/14/2007 Trip Report: (Bob writing)Eben, Laura and myself decided to give the north face a go on Sunday, since the weather was so damn beautiful. We left the parking lot at 1am and started the long trek in. we managed to get up to cloud cap by about 2:30am. This whole first section was really nice packed trail. Everything went well until we started climbing. Once we arrived on the glacier the schloggin was slow. We were tired and the snow was holding us up a bit. We traded turns breaking trails and arrived at the schrun at 8AM. (Eben Writing)Crossing the Schrun was a trip. We crossed over on the far right, placing pickets as we moved along. Initially we were planning of climbing the right couloir but after arriving at the base we noticed that there wasnt really any ice in the right couloir, but there was a sweet looking short vertical ice pitch at the base of the left couloir. so We then traversed left up into the left couloir. Where the first and only real pitch of climbing began. There was a thirty foot pitch of vertical ice(WI4 with shitty pro). Bob took the bold lead and Laura and I slowly paid out the rope. As he was climbing Laura and I felt like the mountain was shedding its top layer and our ledge was constantly shrinking due to all the spindrift. Bob cleared the lip and set up belay. I followed second and Laura cleaned the route, all three of us agreed that spindrift sucks. After we were all over the ice and into the couloir it was around 10am. After the initial ice pitch we simul climbed the rest of the face. Snow was decent, but could have been a little more solid. We reached the summit at 3PM. Zero wind on the south side was a welcomed change from the frigid wind and nasty temps on the north side. Over all the climb wasn't too bad, but definately not as spicy as we all thought it would be. There was really only 30 feet of actual climbing on the north face. But the ice along the spur might offer some good climbing this weekend. Overview:(bob writing) The crux of the route was definetely the initial ice pitch. Which was'nt extremely difficult but the ice was soft making any placements very iffy. The constant spin drift also aided in making it a little bit of a pain. I was suprised how mellow the rest of the route was. from the top of the first pitch to the top is all just easy 60 degree slopes to the top. I definetely think that with a little bit more consolidation of both the snow and ice would make the route much more enjoyable. We have some ok pics, somtime this week we will scan them in and post, so everyone can see how the conditions were. Gear Notes: 4 ice screws 4 pickets Approach Notes: Not to bad, most of the way the snow was packed. once we got onto the Elliot we post holed a little bit.

So i take it you can still get up to timberline? but not to the north side(cooper sput, tilly jane)? so i guess this means that when the N.face comes in this year its going to be a hell of a hike! up the south side then down and back up the north, yeah think the first clear days we get i'll go up and check it out and give everyone info on the north faces conditions.

Like new only used a few times. They come with the detachable leashed. retail for the tools and leashes is almost $600, i am asking $400. cheers, bob

you could climb with me and my partner if you would like. we usually get out every week. i live in eugene and she lives in portland but we make trips to canada a lot and we could always use another person to throw in on gas. Also my buddy is going to start climbing ice this season so that would make 4. And getting you on some harder ice and mixed climbs shouldnt be a problem. Planning on spending dec in Banff area which anyone is welcome to join is they want.

yeah, looks like this warm weather is going to last until friday. then then the freezing levels going to drop back down, only to go right back up again on saturday. Which hopefully means that there has been some consolidation. so for those who have friday off looks like that will be the day to climb this week. Sandy, Yocum, Reid should be in thursday night friday day.

your best bet is to go on a weekend and become friends with a snowmobiler and have them give you a lift up to the trail head. cuts off 3.5miles of slogging.

i think that there is a little bit of consolidation going down right now just because the snow thats been falling has been somewhat wet and heavy. I think a day or two of no snow and youd be good. I am going to head up to the north side on saturday and i'll let you know how the snow is.

was affraid of that, thanks!

whats up man, you know i was up there a little while ago before we got this snow and the approach sucked, the snow is not consolidated at all. Chances are routes on DT are stil not in at all. I had to find that out the hard way by hiking the 9+ miles in to the damn mountain. definetely no ice on TC's

anyone been up on the north side of hood lately? wondering if the ice is still thick along cooper spur?

yeah i might need a ride back, i'll let you know

yes thats great advice, last year we put on the ribb in mid june and with the shitty snow we had bad rock fall through the chicken couliar, and a shitty time getting up the fork. tons of crevasses opened up. but this is obviously going to be a much better snow year.

i was just thinking about that today, did the west ridge last year to acclimate for the west ribb, i would be down to do it again though.But would you be willing to try the northwest spur?