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JAFO

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Everything posted by JAFO

  1. JAFO

    Virulent Emails

    hey it wasn't like I wanted to come here.
  2. I agree with archenemy. If they are just lazy and out of shape let them go back down or safely wait it out. (or better yet I wouldn't have chosen to climb with them) But bagging and tagging someone who is vounterable is just selfish. It's one thing when the risk is so high and rescue is almost impossible say high on f'n k2 or something. But if you can help it and you leave them and they are sick then you are an a-hole. Or you didn't pick partners well and therefore deserve what comes your way. Even if it means you have to go back. "but hey it's just my opinion"
  3. JAFO

    Virulent Emails

    "dirty sanchez" damn hey at least its origional
  4. I agree. PMS has a down to earth "what you really need" atittude My only complaint is the beef against camalots Personally I like them and know when I need what. My friend bought the cams they (PMS) suggested and while they were light the shit was sticky as hell. I've never had that problem with my camalots.
  5. DFA Only a gym rat would be so conerned about fashion. Your not one of those are you? Why give give 5.10 all the buisness. But really, you might be better off hanging out in the REI thread. They can keep you up on the latest "fashion"
  6. Does anyone know of a store in the US that sells Tenaya Climbing shoes? I have seen some overseas retailers that have them but am hoping to find them in the US.
  7. Thanks Chris, There has been some spray on this book here and it's probably the same a-holes that would have said climbing rubber and cams were cheating. (of course they use them now) My guess is alot of them have never even been down to the valley. I bought your book after getting handed a hand drawn topo half way up the leaning tower. Of course we had a book but it wasn't anything like yours. (so much was out of date) And if the book takes the adventure out how come everyone and their brother wanted to borrow my book when I brought it back to seattle? Great book, awsome info, guide and coffee table book in one.
  8. cool. Make sure to post pics
  9. Nice! Sweet pics too.
  10. You can't go wrong with edelweiss however I thought they were kinda stiff on the handling. It's up to you what you like. Smooth handle or great abrasion resistance. Personally I buy the rope I want even if it turns out to be a little more. To me my confidence is better when I know I am on a good line.
  11. Nice pics It sounds like you didn't even need to haul. you did everyting in one dy after the initial fixing right? anything you would have done differently next time?
  12. Thanks I'll check it out. Is that Suzzallo?
  13. Thanks guys that gives me a good place to start.
  14. Does anyone know if there is a NW version of the Sierra's EVO traverse? Or any guide books with info on it.
  15. JAFO

    60 years ago

    Everyone who is interested in this topic should watch the movie "the fog of war" It interviews Robert Macnamera on how it all went down. We burned 60 major cities in japan. It is amazing that we have any relationship at all with japan.
  16. JAFO

    Bummers today...

    It's gotta be. Only the DOD wuld pay 150% of the market value of something.
  17. JAFO

    New to PNW

    MEC is the sh!t! Just watch the driving it's kinda crazy up there. If you see everyone driving in the right lane (on broadway) don't switch unless you have to. No one let's you turn accross traffic so you will be sitting there awhile. Squamish definatley Squamish! Someone correct me if I am wrong but I am pretty sure the opening sequence of K2 was shot there on the upper grand wall.
  18. Face it guys you all love REI and will continue to go there. Also you will continue to bitch about it. Look. I love REI too and I will always bitch about it. You see it's like Disneyland, (the motherstore) you get pretty little paintings by your parking spot. The waterfall and not to mention painted cement to look like wood! Plus you can paruse the "mountainbike test track" and enjoy the perils of reading your favorite zine on top of the huge glass compass. All this while sipping a $3.50 "luna C". Then when that gets borring you can go out on to the balcony and watch people feel like they have done something "extreme". *slap!* Now when I am done with my outdoor relaxation time I will walk accross the street to Featherd Friends to buy the real stuff. Like leaper cams and keyhole hangers, rivet hangers and get advice from some real climbers who can tell me about bringing wing nuts down to the valley (worked awsome!) and other tidbits of usefullness not handed out at REI. But I will continue to go there anyway because I like gear and cool buildings.
  19. yeah I didn't pay attention to the date on the first post. I think there is still interst though. But it will probably be like the UW book. Many climb there, some know about the book, few purchase it. Thanks for checking though.
  20. What would be cool is if someone could create an editable version of a topo. One that people could sumit thier new routes,problems,traverses on. Anyone?
  21. If you could put together a good enough rendition of Marymoor and UW I think it could go. I've seen the UW book and I thought it was okay. I know someone was working on a Marymoore book about 3yrs ago. But I never heard anything come of it.
  22. Does anyone know of any climbing videos that feature NW routes?
  23. Just imagine what would happen if we took the 100's of billions of dollars we have spent on this shit and actually worried about our "homeland".I am not fond of the patriot act but at least I think we could give emergency people the $ and training they need. You know instead of giving $ to suspected terrorits that may have been mistreated. If we are such good guys. why did the white house shy away from Rwanda? Face it were pumping money to get money. I've been here in Iraq and think they are just waiting for us to leave. Of course it's all opinion.
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