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AaronB

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Everything posted by AaronB

  1. Climb: Sahale Peak-Quien Sabe Date of Climb: 6/3/2006 Trip Report: After doing this climb a few years ago, and remembering how easy it was, I decided to take a few friends on their first alpine climb. We left Seattle early friday morning. We arrived in Bellingham right as I woke up, and informed Liz that we passed Hwy 20 about 35 miles ago. The approach was very wet. The trail is much more overgrown than I remember, and the fresh rain soaked the brush which in turn soaked us. Right about at the 2nd avalanche knockdown, the rain started very hard. It stopped about an hour later as we bushwacked our way into Boston Basin. We slept suprisingly well given the noisy rain on our tent all night. (the Yukon Jack helped) We woke up around 6am and got started under very lightly falling snow. (much better than rain). We just put our heads down and hiked non stop until we roped up. The climb was very straight forward, and there was a lot more snow up there compared to two years ago. The heavy rain had made the glacier not very pleasant to walk on. I managed to poke through a few times. For the most part it was just kicking steps, and then postholing, but sometimes wallowing. For me at 6'4" it wasn't too bad. Liz and Steph are around 5'2" and were having a tough time following my tracks. That didn't stop a little air guitar action. We had a good time, and made good time. The cornice at the top was pretty huge and overhanging so we stayed as close to the fracture line as we could without punching through. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/4902PIMG6745-med.JPG' alt='4902PIMG6745-med.JPG'> The beer waiting for us in the creek by the car did. Gear Notes: Umbrella would have been nice. Maybe some galoshes. Approach Notes: Road open up to mile 20? So about 1-2 miles from Boston Basin Trail Head. After the second avy field I don't know what to tell you. The trail is under snow, and their isn't exactly any footprints. Just make your way up.
  2. A Tibloc isn't the answer to my question. I need something that will be on the rope so I can transfer the weight of my partner to an anchor. Its hard to light up, when you have to stay in self arrest while your partner crawls out of crevasses. Especially when you don't have a lighter, and are using matchheads against your zipper.
  3. Sorry, I tried to search as I know this must have come up a million times before, but couldn't find anything. I'm wondering what diameter prusik, people would use with 8mm rope. The ones I am currently using slip way too much, even with many loops.
  4. Looking to get on anything alpine this Friday/Saturday.. I'm in Seattle and don't have a car.
  5. Hi, anyone know how far you can get in a lowrider to the TH? Can you make it as far as the Eldo TH? And has anyone done the hike up to Boston Basin? Any Beta would be great.
  6. If I've learned anything from this thread, it would be to NOT leave my credit card behind at the bar , and that "The Ballroom" is Not Fratty?
  7. I'm in Seattle, if you want it call me 206-979-198two
  8. This is the 15degreeF/-9DegreeC bad. It's brand new never used. I'm selling for $200.00 It's a long bag. If interested call me. 206-979-198two
  9. Thanks for the overwhelming replies. If I haven't replied to you, it's because I've sold the items or have replied to someone allready. Thanks for the interest.
  10. Well, unfortunately I've sold almost all my gear over the past two years of school. I've definately gone Twight style this past year. Well here it is, tuition is due in two weeks and I'm down to the wire. Here is what I've got. Extra large Burton AK series shell. Gore-Tex Large (I'm 6'4" and skinny) Arx-Teryx minuteman gore-tex xcr pants Dakine Poacher pack (awesome- I've taken to the himalayas and all over the back country here) Marmot Eiger pack MSR Coyote pickets (several) Black Diamond Express Ice screws (several) REI Ice axe (72cm maybe?) it's a big one Size 13 Asolo double plastic boots.. (they kick ass) high enough backs to do a quick saw on your snow board bindings to ride in. Helmet (petzl rock ecrin) Black Diamond Betta Mid tent shelter People say they suck, I slept at 19,500 in India with it. Sweet Gore-Tex Mammut ice climbing gloves miscelaneous other crap.. come take a look such as guide books etc. Also I have a sweet fixed gear conversion for sale.. It's a newly painted mystery frame 61cm probably japanese with some very unique attributes ..it has a Chris King headset, Sugino RD track cranks, Velocity Deep V rims built on Formula hubs.. Cinelli bars and stem, It's matched red and white color scheme.. looks hot if you can handle the gear ratio (81 inches) if not, change it. The rear hub is track flip/flop fixed/free ..It has a cane creek front break.. Reload bar pad etc. I kicked some major ass in the pirate race on the chilly hilly with this bike. (super light) Anyway, if anyone can help me make my tuition this spring, I'll be indebted.. My gear for your $ ..I've come to realize that no matter how cool climbing is. My girlfriend will dump me if I don't stick with school.
  11. I'm off around 2pm on Sat.. Through Monday. I've got nothing in mind, but plenty of zeal to get something done this weekend.
  12. Grivel G10 steel crampons with steel shaft and extra alluminum shaft so you can wear on any shoes.. They are the full strap-on kind.. I know how much you all love "strap-ons" They also come with the anti-balling plates and I'll throw in 2 MSR pickets in new condition.. All for ONLY 75 bucks! WOW what an Amazing deal.. (obviously I'm drunk with excitement-or maybe booze) Call me boys and girls.. (Seattle area) 206-979-198two ..if you don't I'll have to put a in your mailbox..
  13. Seattle, but I just spent several hours in an ambulance/emergency room from being taken out by a car on Pine and Summit. And my bike is now in many pieces.. Hopefully I can replace my bike and heal in time to ride to the rope-up. And Dru, thanks for volunteering to come pick up my shit! I promise to pack a for you.
  14. I plan/planned on riding my bike. Anyone volunteer to transport my gear for me?
  15. If I can get ever get a flight out of Ladakh, I've got some funny pictures to show.. And great video coverage of me comandeering a horse to cross a river.. The horse recovered fully I am told. Though if anyone sees a Dakine Poacher pack in the Zanskar river with 2 grivel alp wings attached.. I would like them back.. The pack is bad luck however, and you can have it. Oh, and my glasses would be nice.
  16. AaronB

    Canada is so suck!

    After traveling with a Canadian and running into several more. I think they have good intentions. Maybe they just need some guidance. Example of Packing Example of Chosen transportation And anyone that insists on wearing a helmet for jungle trekking??? After being on the road a month, I wanted to have some "fun".. He found some locals to introduce me too. I decided to wait till I got back.
  17. I'm going to be leaving very soon, and need any info I can get. I'm going to hang out in Lei for a while, and then am doing the Kang La & Miyar Glacier Traverse of the Greater Himalaya.. According to my "trekking" guidebook, the peaks along the way are "Ripe for exploration" ..How important is it to get the permit for 6000m+ peaks? The form wants you to be specific on climbs and peaks, and I don't have the time frame to wait it out anyway. Anyone have suggestions on the area? "Ladakh" Anyone climb Menthosa? And know how hard it is to cross the glacier in August? And how hard the rock step at 21k really is? Anyway, I'd appreciate the help, even if it's to point me in another direction for help. Any good websites etc. I'd like to show up with a little insight.. I'll be there from July 19th - Sept 22nd
  18. It's not in this year, so how about we hit it together next year. peeps? Tetons are like fun and stuff. Yeah, that. And what he said.
  19. Hey Hey Hey! Anyone want to hit up the Tetons for rock and alpine? Moderate stuff.. or anything that is in shape. Looking to do the usual suspects in the area. Hopefully there will still be enough snow to ski some of the crap too. We can base camp in South Garnet canyon and watch all the fireflies descending the Moraine. I promise not to stash TOO many bottles of booze in your pack.
  20. Great and usefull beta and photos! Nice TR
  21. Yup it resides at a ripe old altitude of 1,073 feet.. Better bring oxygen and leave the cigars at home.. So I guess I could just go to the bar at the top of the columbia tower (997 feet) which is an elevation of 110 feet above sea level (4th ave entrance) ..would put it at about 1107 feet above sea level.. BUT! The bar is aproximatly 40 feet below the actual height of the building at 1067 feet in elevation.. But if you add that I am almost 6'5" tall, when I tilt my head back, (while sipping scotch) My mouth resides at about 6ft.. or 1073 feet above sea level.
  22. Laphroig is good Lagavulin is great.. but Ardbeg is Perfect..
  23. Only due to access/remoteness. What's your planned route on the peak and approach? The access isn't that bad, and it's not that remote.. Just pack very light, and wear goretex trail running shoes.. And don't forget the afternoon lightning. And the particulary destructive snaffles..
  24. Towards Oakley about 10 min drive past the upper breadloafs, (from the city) you will come to a rough road that leads right up into forest service land.. = free camping.. but no water or toilets.. but that shit is aid anyway.. and be aware of fire restrictions up there. They will nail you big time. You can lower the dust, by taking Mt Bikes down to the climbing areas Just watch out for the surprise barbwire and cacti..
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