markwebster

just now saw this story. Quite a bad day at castle. Glad to hear folks are healing up. I've always thought the fault was a bit runout at the start. I've sent a couple beginners up it on lead thinking it was the "safe" pitch of lower castle. I'm thinking there is a couple small wired's in there, but you have to hunt for them...not sure as it's been a while. There are so many leads out there where we either choose to, or have to run things out on easy ground. We trust in our bodies, and our judgment of the rock quality that nothing will go wrong. This story is a wakeup call. I need to stop running out hand cracks, at 55, hell, I could blow a bicep easily. My old buddy Jim Phillips pulled a tendon on liberty crack in his fifties, fell off a 5.8 and broke his back. He hadn't protected it because "I never fall on 5.8". I can remember many, many times over the decades when I would be the only person with a helmet on the cliff. From squamish to jtree, I was/am the geek with the helmet. It just makes sense to me, like wearing my seatbelt. Something you can do to cover some of the "what if's" of climbing. I've always wondered about the motivation behind not wearing one, but like smoking, it's a personal choice. anyway, great story, and great catch sobo!

At the base of endless bliss there is a seam on the left, almost an open book. There are bolts going up and right of the seam (which is sometimes wet), as well as a bolt line going up to the left. The route on the left is vertical to bulging with some nice reachy moves, and a heel hook, but it's only 5.9. Endless bliss goes to the right of the seam and the first 20 feet can be wet this time of year. It's still very climbable as there are some deep jugs leading up to the first of some 16 bolts. I met Leland Windham up there (he put up the route) and told him I thought it was the best 5.9-10a bolt climb in the state. It climbs stellar rock with very nice little ledges, and a plethora of bolts. Even if you are rusty you can always get up it as it's just so darn safe with all that hardware. Reminds me of "Slender Thread" (peshastin)...but ever so much safer. http://www.deceptioncrags.com/FarSide/GunShow/index.htm

sobo, that is a very frightening story. That is my worst nightmare every time I go to vantage. They do not look secure at all. I'm thinking I'll return to leavenworth for a while...even the pinnacles are more reliable than vantage. Triggerfinger is already down. Plus, the gangbangers are at their worst at vantage. It's funny how castle rock never has gangbangers...a better class of climbers hang out at castle.

Now you guys are scaring me. I was just starting to love those trad routes. Has anyone taken a whipper on gear at vantage...safely? Granted, I knew the plates fall out occasionally, but those cracks don't look that rotten.

We were standing at the bottom of "seven virgins and a mule" (kingpins area of vantage) Saturday 4-11-09. Someone was leading the 10a face variation of Peaceful Warrior. I heard a shout and saw something flying down out of the corner of my eye. A flake about the size of a 15 inch pizza, about 3 inches thick, exploded on the ledge, sending shrapnel 15 feet in all directions. He pulled it off from about 5 bolts up, leaving a big scar in the rock. It missed his belayer by 3 feet, the rope by 6 inches. The guy who pulled it off said it didn't look rotten, wasn't loose and looked like all the other holds at Vantage. He was a good climber, not a newbie at all. I was the only one there with a helmet of half a dozen people nearby. I'm not sure the helmet would have saved my life as that thing was huge...but it would have helped. I wear mine all the time, even when I'm hiking along the base. For sure it would have killed someone without a helmet. Very very scary. I think I'm done with Vantage for a while. I also got nailed in the helmet with a golf ball sized rock that day. Strange. I'll leave the "are helmets good?" arguments to someone else. FYI

Dane is right. You can climb at peshastin and watch the rain over Leavenworth. I have waited out rainstorms at peshastin under Vertigo, then jumped right back on routes as they steam dry. I never gave any thought to the red rocks rule of waiting a few days. I don't remember breaking any holds or pebbles ever. If it is rotten, it is rotten all the time, just slightly more so in the rain. I've hung on, and rapped off, bolts in the rain there, back when they were quarter inchers. I can remember doing bolt maintenance in heavy rainstorms, pulling them out and replacing with three eighths. If they were good quarter inchers, they were still hard to crowbar out, even in a rainstorm (slender thread, fakin it) JoJo, Vladi, Ingrid, Tyler and I are heading to Vantage. the forecast is a little dryer than leavenworth. I hope to get back on some nice cracks there. Be fun to see ya! Sue bailed on me because of her back.

great news! hard to beat tieton for mellow trad climbing

don't let all the bad talk about the pinnacles keep you away. it's an awesome climbing area, but it does have a learning curve. many routes are never done anymore, but there is easily two days worth of climbing, or more if you want to master friction. If you are looking for the bolt monkey routes of vantage, with a bolt every 4 feet, then go to vantage. but if you are willing to serve an apprenticeship in friction climbing, the pinnacles can pay great dividends. I wrote a trip report about it last spring. pinnacles trip report It does pay to always carry a few cams in the one half inch to 4 inch range on any route in Leavenworth, not just the pinnacles.

are the peshastin pinnacles open? How much snow is there? temps look good coming up.

I've heard that you can tell ups to deliver to the nearest ups package store, instead of your home. There are big advantages to this. You are guaranteed it is safe, no one can steal it, they are open until 7. So you don't have to stay home to be sure and be there when the package shows up, assuming it needs a signature. I've not done it, but have been tempted a couple times because otherwise you have to drive down to the main warehouse (like in fife/tacoma) to pick up the package that couldn't be delivered because you weren't there to sign for it. I wouldn't be surprised if even fed ex could be told to deliver to the ups store, or any packaging store.

it's true that for the low priced printers you can buy a new one with cartridges for the same price as new ink. Ridiculous how that works. I had an epson 825 for 5 years and used to buy my ink at: http://www.inkjetmadness.com/ The prices were a fourth of what I'd find at officedepot and they worked fine. I'm sure they were made by starving peasants in some third world country though. Now I have a nicer printer (canon pixma pro 9000) that does 13x19 so I have been being careful to buy only canon ink to preserve the warranty.

thanks. Climbers girls are fun to photograph, though I always ask permission. That's the main reason I lug around my digital slr to capture pictures of the awesome athletes out there. You have to be in good shape to climb above a certain level so the girls (and guys) are always in awesome shape. I married the prettiest one I could find in '79. She's still hot. This sport keeps you young.

This is an abreviated version of my trip report. You can find the full report with many more pictures, and even two videos with live music here. jtree xmas 2008 with videos We left Washington during a 4 inch snowstorm, but before the big 9 inch dump. We picked up Heather in Oregon and arrived in Red Rocks shortly after a 6 inch snowstorm. We met Paul down there and climbed for 3 days before the weather turned sour and we headed to Joshua Tree. We arrived at Joshua Tree on the evening of the 23rd and spend the day at Indian Cove. That night (xmas eve) we camped at Hidden Valley which was windy, cold and deserted and once again drove down to Indian Cove for the warmer climbing. When we returned to our site at Hidden Valley that night, we found both our tents shredded. Heather's tent had bent poles but was salvageable. My 24 year old Eureka was completely destroyed and James and I took turns sleeping in the bivy sack/truck canopy for the rest of the trip. This is Heather and James following birdland at red rocks. I was disappointed in the red rocks rock quality. If you can picture a mud puddle that has frozen, dried out and then crackled up in the sunshine you have red rocks sandstone. You can see it in this picture. The wacos (crackled mud) make for delightful climbing but I couldn't shake the feeling that my protection was less than optimal. I doubt if I'll ever go back. If I want sunny winter climbing, Joshua Tree is a shorter drive with better rock. If I want summer climbing, Yosemite is 8 hours closer, and Yosemite granite is as good as it gets. Heather and I post holing our way toward the Birdland route. My chacos were not the ideal footwear for this hike. I wrapped my socks in plastic grocery bags, but they ripped. This is James rapping. James is a awesome climber and very bold. He has mastered the art of moving fast and light on rock. His rack is one quarter the size of my rack and has funny things on it called tricams which I feel belong in a museum. I, on the other hand, have mastered the art of carrying my el cap rack everywhere which provides us with a never ending source of amusing arguments on the merits of light and fast, or slow and safe. He climbs more than I do so I think he's winning the argument. Paul on the crux of Popes crack. It's a stiff nine. We also did Touch and Go that day. I found that to be a much easier lead than Popes Crack. Paul leading Sidewinder in Steve Canyon 10b. It had a hard start getting past a bolt, a moderate middle section and a desperate end. 15 feet above Paul's head you can just see a horizontal dike. There is a bolt at head height once you stand up on the dike. Then you traverse 20 feet left with nothing but sideways crimpers for handholds (in other words, no hands). The dyke is reasonable foot smears but the wall bulges out toward you, forcing you to topple over backwards as there are no handholds. Did I mention there are no hands? Very very scary, even to follow. A fall there on lead would almost certainly lead to a hospital stay as it's a ledgy landing. Brave lead Paul! One of Paul's climbing buddies found 4 hams in a dumpster diving expedition outside a Safeway. As Paul was on an extended dirtbag road trip, he took one of the hams and shared it with everyone, not telling us it was dumpster ham until after we'd had it for dinner. This gal followed Heart and Sole on Echo rock before we got on it. She was lovely to watch: a very smooth and graceful climber. Crystal at Echo Cove. We climbed together for a couple routes. She was a lot of fun. Crystal is in med school in Florida. This is Michelle. I teamed up with her and her boyfriend Joe to climb the flake on New Years day. Again: You can find the full report with many more pictures, and even two videos with live music here. jtree xmas 2008 with videos

My buddy Paul B. has been in red rocks for about 3 weeks now, living out of his car and climbing everyday. Talked to him on phone yesterday and he said there is 5 inches of snow and it sucks. But the 10 day forecast looks much better, 40's to 50's for temps and clear skies. And that good weather starts Saturday, when we plan to arrive. Hope to hit Jtree as well towards new years. See you there!

I'll be looking you up for sure, should be in red rocks by end of this week. Jessica the violinist (from last xmas) will be down as well again, and I'll have my "A" blues harp. I hope to also be bringing a guitar player, though I've not heard her play. She wasn't sure what a 12 bar blues progression was, but swears she can play anything...and she climbs!

thanks for the photos, and the tips about the 7 continents. I'll get out there and take some pictures of that problem. This book may not happen till it warms up a bit as I need to some eyecandy photos of climbers on the routes. Hopefully some handsome guys, and some cute girls. I've got some partners who might co-operate.

I'm well acquainted with the doghouse. That was a funny commercial! Still, buying presents for the wife is not necessary. I try to be a good husband when I can...and then I go climbing, sometimes with her, and other times with other partners, but she is always invited. I've never believed all the crap about "buying" her love. That's tripe put out by the advertising industry. I never got her a ring, never bought her flowers, never gave her a valentine gift, but she we share our paychecks. It's too long a story to tell here, but we celebrated our 30th wedding anniversary last labor day. I was climbing at smith, with someone else. [img:right]http://www.websterart.com/img/sue_me83half_dome.jpg[/img] This is her in '83. She is still damn fine looking for 55. I am the luckiest guy I know when it comes to marriage. It can work, don't believe all the bad stories, and the doghouse doesn't last all that long.

I was raised a presbyterian, and come from a long line of missionaries. They went to china in 1860 to save the heathens from the fires of hell. In high school I was going through church confirmation when I happened to fall in love with my classmate Devi Unsoeld, whose father was Willi Unsoeld, the world famous mountaineer. Over a series of dates at the Unsoeld house, where I saw Willi's toes in a jar (lost them on Everest in '63), Willi convinced me that Buddhism made as much sense as Christianity. He was philosophy professor at Evergreen college and very friendly and persuasive. And Devi was so beautiful. When I confronted my family with the conflict in logic, they said I had to trust in God. Being of an inquiring mind, that wasn't good enuf. I believe in things I can see. Now I believe in worms. You die, the worms get you. Sorry if that sounds harsh. The world is still a cool place, but I don't think it's any bigger than what you see right now.

I have a stevenson warmlite 2r tent that I bought in 1979. It is light and appears to be fragile but I actually used it a lot and never had anything rip over 5 years of mountaineering use in some bad storms. You do need to handle it carefully as with any tent that is built for lightness. I got it out last year and it is still fine. There are tents that are almost as light now...everyone has copied warmlite's ideas. I also have the warmlite sleeping bag bought new in 1981. Now that is awesome. Forget the down air matress, I use a much cheaper pad under it. That bag is so warm, I swear it would be good to -40. The loft is at least 8 inches with both tops. I've never had any problems with it, not even a broken zipper and I use it many times each winter. Well, I did have some of the vapor barrier fabric begin to come delaminated back in 1993. I sent it back and they fixed it for free, completely resewed all the interior...amazingly good seamstress work. With the bag, you do need to wear long johns or sweats because of the vapor barrier. they still have the nudist theme on their website...gotta love that.

I was out there with my wife and daughter last summer. Still a fun place, nothing much has changed other than getting run down a little. The county used to sandblast it now and then to remove the graffiti and moss. I was kind of hoping the new book would spark a small revival of interest in the old rock.

that's a great tip. Where on spire are the 7 continents, as in, north side, south....and by 360, do you mean going around a clock dial that is stuck to the side of the wall: up, left, right, down...I'm confused. I lost touch with the new stuff at spire when I started working in Seattle. You could argue that I am the wrong person to write the book...but I don't think anyone else cares, and or has the technical skills to pull it off. I was a pressman for 28 years, and do web work now, and this sounds like a fun rainy day project.

yah, I knew Yoder back then, still run into him now and then at Smith and Vantage. Spire was the ticket back then, gyms (and cams) hadn't been invented yet. I pretty much grew up out there. It's still a good place for beginners and those who can't afford the gyms.

I posted this in the authors section but didn't get any bites, so here goes again. Do you have any pictures or route info on Spire Rock in Spanaway? Jim Phillips and I published a small guidebook back in the eighties and I've decided to publish it again, in color this time. You can see a preview here: http://www.websterart.com/img/spire_rock23.pdf I've got the basic route photos already but we need some eye candy pictures to fill out the book. Do you have any you would like to share? We'd also like to have info on any of the traverses that have been put up out there since the first book. Climbing gyms are cool, but spire has real rock where you can practice placing pro. I took my first leader falls and aid climbs there. pierce county website for spire rock

there are two of us for sure now, with a possible third...anyone else? The more the merrier...and the cheaper the costs

Jim Phillips and I published the guidebook to Spire Rock out in Spanaway (south tacoma) back in the early 1980's. We sold about 800 copies. Spire was the only game in town back then as Todd didn't build edgeworksclimbing.com until just a few years ago. It's still a great place to practice placing pro...took my first leader fall there. I'm looking for photos of people climbing on Spire to add as some filler to the barebones route information. You can see a two page spread at the link to the pdf below. http://www.websterart.com/img/spire_rock23.pdf The first edition had a bunch of pictures of climbers, but we lost the originals...and they were black and white anyway. I'm going color this time. I can't pay you, but I will list your name in the photo credits. You could be famous We are also looking for information on some of the traverses that have been put together out there since we wrote the book. Do you know where they go, or what they are named? Yeah, yeah, I know its not a real rock, and I know about the gangs that hang out there in the dark...I'm hoping the new guide book will revive some interest in the old rock...maybe even lead to getting it sandblasted again and cleaned up.