markwebster

As you pass Cle Elum, heading East on I90 there are some large cliffs off in the distance to the south. They look to be 5 miles south and they completely dominate the horizon. They must be half a mile across. They look like a series of rocky gullies but seem steep enough to have climbing. Anyone been there? In other breaking news, I got spanked on Carnival Crack, 10d offwidth this weekend in Leavenworth. I could stick in it using a handstack and a knee bar, but it was so overhanging I couldn't release my handstack without falling out. Anyone know of any videos demonstrating 5 inch overhanging splitter technique? It took a number 5 camalot down low, and a 3 bigbro but I needed a 6 camalot, or larger. Me leading, Jim P. Belaying. I got my gear out by downclimbing...fun stuff!

During which part of the activity? I guess that would be a no, and a yes. It's painful to look back at those photos. We were so young and hard bodied.

I did royal arches last summer. After all the hype we were dissappointed. The views are nice, but, considering the number of cool moves, and the descent, I won't repeat it. We got lost on it too, ended up off to the left on some tennish open book before hooking back in on pitch 6. We saw two people all day (september). Rapping off with a single 60 meter in the dark, not knowing the rap line = scary. In 1984, Sue and I saw some nudists doing the horizontal dance in plain view at Devils Bathtubs while climbing Serenity. Sue was disgusted with them, but later we checked it out. We got nude, swam, took pictures, and thought about finding someplace private. Her shorts and bikini top blew off the ledge down the cliff, leaving her with no clothes at all. It was quite the dilemma. How could we get back to camp 4 nude? We roped up, nude of course, and she lowered me down the cliff looking for her clothes. Half way down, on a ledge I came to a huge pile of lost bikini tops, shorts, socks, shirts, etc. We weren't the first to lose clothes to the wind. Harry Daley is a really fine 5.8 route over on the Apron. It's sort of deserted over there due to the rock fall, but it's between the active zones. Pictures of my favorite valley routes here: http://www.websterart.com/html/yosemite9-09.html and here: http://www.websterart.com/html/yosemite08/index.html

Ah Crillz, I still remember that vomit in the sink at camp 4. It stayed there for about 3 days, like the ranger was to disgusted to clean it up. What a pit that place is. We are lucky to have a place as clean and unspoiled as 8 mile, even with the aggressive live in caretakers. Twenty years from now you will be looking back in time and remembering when there wasn't a condo development where the free spot is at Bridge creek.

campgrounds keep getting more expensive. Us graybeards can remember when climbers stayed at rat creek for free. There were no houses at all past snow creek. Rat Creek was just like the (current) free climbers campground beyond Bridge Creek. It's all water under the bridge now. The bottom dropped out of the state budget, those guys have to make money to support the campground. I'm in no position to question why they keep raising the fees, they just do. I'm glad the campgrounds are there. And really, when you think about the money we spend on cars, houses, alcohol, dinners out, hardware, plane tickets to jtree...$16 a night is reasonable. You can still dirtbag it, just drive farther up. There is always somewhere to crash. We used to crash up the midnight rock road when it got really bad, don't know if that is still an option. that wide pullout where the winnebagos park past 4th of july is also a dirtbag option, just keep a low profile, leave early, come late, don't leave a tent up. Be creative! One plus side to the budget shortfall is there are less rangers on patrol.

Chris, yeah, Damnation stayed dry. I usually don't lead it this early in the year...good omen I guess. I'd love to see those photos. Post 'em here if you want, or email? It was fun seeing the Castle parking lot getting busy. I love that place. My buddies Dave and Phil got 10 pitches in that day, all on Castle. Great seeing you guys!

Trip: leavenworth, smith, vantage - many Date: 5/2/2010 Trip Report: I've not posted a trip report in a while. I enjoy reading other peoples trip reports, so I thought it was time I repaid the favor. These are photos from several weekend trips over the late winter and spring, ending with last weekend in Leavenworth. Climbing for me is not just about the rock, it's also about the friendship around the campfire at night, so my first picture is of my edgeworksclimbing friends jamming at Skull Hollow campground over Spring Break. Dave and I enjoyed the sound so much we recorded it later in a makeshift studio and you can here it here: Dave and Mark play the climbing blues song Dave is on the left. Joel, on the right, is the resident Mayor of Smith, waiting out a rain shower. I seem to run into Joel everywhere I go, from Smith to Yosemite to Joshua Tree, Joel is there. Hangdogging my way up New Testament 5.10a, Smith. It was not pretty. Brett, leading Toys in the Attic, 5.9, Smith in a heavy rain storm. It stays dry. Brett, leading Toys in the Attic, 5.9, Smith Natalie following Craig up a 10c at Vantage Dave leading Poison Ivy Dave leading "Just another sucker on the vine", 5.8, Leavenworth Dave leading "Just another sucker on the vine", 5.8, Leavenworth Craig racking up for Vertigo at the Peshastin Pinnacles. I used to lead this back in the day with stoppers and hexes. The new gear makes it much easier and safer. Vertigo has very clean and solid rock over much of the route. The stemming here is challenging. You can see the size of the route here. Craig is just entering the upper chimney section. There is smaller gear off to the left, but it does not look as solid as the big chimney gear. He goes for the Big Bro. Craig bought this last fall on sale and vowed to carry it until he placed it. The Peshastin Pinnacles is very beautiful in the evening light. The orchards stretch forever out across the valley. Pitch one, Winter Solstice 5.6, Castle Rock, Leavenworth. This was Cameron's second day on rock. Craig forgot to bring a helmet for her. Cameron on the second pitch of Winter Solstice where it requires precise footwork. Cameron safe on the top of what many would call a "girl friend route". She was a real trooper, but I thing Craig was wondering if Castle was the best place for a first date. Gear Notes: your standard el cap rack Approach Notes: no longer than 20 minutes anywhere.

offwidth chimney technique is a skill that can be learned, just like any of the others: laybacking, slab&friction, steep face, etc. I've not done carnival, but it sounds like I would like it. Bat crack on intersection rock in jt was my first exposure to body slot chimney technique. It's only 5.6, but it's a slick chimney. Then there is the watershute, also on intersection rock. Now that is scary, but it's just another chimney. At smith, there is the bookworm, a great 'bigger than fist' crack. Lychophydophyta, also at smith, second pitch. Only gets climbed once every 10 years...by me :-) Easter overhang is an awesome offwidth. Your feet cut loose and you hang from two chicken wing jams. I used to walk up a couple 4 friends. Damnation at Castle is also great for offwidth. It can be made (relatively) safe with a few camalot 3 and 4's, a 5, and two big bros, sizes 2 and 3. Buttlips at index, also known as pitch 3 of Lizard is lots of fun once you master chimneys. It protects with a red number 1 camalot at the crux, and some smaller cams. Best secret to chimney climbing: knee pads! With knee pads, you get a no hands rest in buttlips. Believe it or not, Spire Rock in Tacoma has some nice, slick offwidth cracks and chimneys for practicing your skills.

Nice TR! Phil made it sound like a ton of fun, I have to get up there. Too funny running into you at rei and hearing about the same trip from you, turns out you were partners. Small world. In regards to my problems finding wide rock shoes, here is page that explains it: http://www.websterart.com/html/wide_rock_climbing_shoe.html Thanks for the help with the shoes. Hope we can hook up in Leavenworth.

sorry about your loss. But generally, it's a rare dog that can stay mellow and out of trouble when it's owner goes up the cliff and leaves it alone. For that reason, I've never had a dog. Sheesh, my kids were bad enough.

I love castle! Everything you need to learn about crack climbing can be learned there. Where else can you find 2 high quality 3 pitch 5.4 routes? I've taken many beginners up Saber and Midway for their first leads. Midway Direct is even better at 5.6. It amazed me that Castle was abandoned during the nineties and early years of this century. You can work your way up through the numbers, learning your craft, and almost every route is awesome, with rock that rivals yosemite. And no, raindawg was not always grumpy. Back in the day he did not carry a big chip on his shoulder. We spent many days climbing together in the pinnacles and places like jtree. He was very funny guy back then, and a far better climber than I. Even my wife liked him, and she is picky. I can remember raindawg standing on the tree 10 feet up slender thread with my wife, spotting me as I led the runout to the first bolt. The tree is gone, and the longer runout makes it a deal breaker for me. I wonder if guy who put the route up is still alive? Would he approve replacing the missing tree with a bolt? Why should we allow nature to change a route from an r rated route to a double xx? Can you say maintenance? Flame on.

Those new bolts off to the left of the midway step across have been there at least 5 years. They do not protect the step across. They are too far away. They are part of that other route that comes up the face left of damnation. If someone has added something new since I was up there last fall to protect the midway step across, that is lame. But on the topic of Leavenworth bolts, I climbed West Face of Grand Central tower (5.8) yesterday in the Pinnacles. The two bolts on the far right hand side, (10c?) do not look good after the massive rock avalanche from Nirvana Ridge. Both bolts show evidence of heavy scraping. I wager they are suspect. One of the key knobs got scraped out, and several footholds are shattered. West Face, and the two lines immediately right look normal on rappel, but I did not take any falls on the bolts. That was one hell of a rock slide. It kind of irritates me that the routes in the pinnacles continue to get harder due to trees falling (slender thread, washboards, etc) and no protection is added to replace the missing safety points. With that tree on Slender thread, and the tree on washboards, they were a lot safer. I can just imagine the hue and cry if bolts were added. I think our generation (of bolt police) will have to die out before common sense comes back into play.

to get this thread back on track... I talked to Paul last night. His old cell number still works. He is still blind, has another brain surgery coming in a month. Said his hands hurt a lot from all the screws and plates holding the bone together. He just got one of those blind walking pointing stick thingies. Said it's really strange being blind, and that he regrets not wearing his helmet. It pretty much ripped my heart out hearing the pain in his voice. He said he wanted to come out and climb, even if he was still blind. I promised to take him up classic crack. I'm thinking about sending him a harmonica with a 'how to play' cassette. He used to enjoy hearing me jam at jtree. Pictures of him down there here,and a recent recording of me and David D. jamming: http://www.websterart.com/slideshowpro/slideshow.html

sweet!

I've not been to Leavenworth yet this year. How is it looking? Is Loggers Ledge on Castle snow free? Is there much snow up the creek? Can you get to...Fish wall for example, or Prime Rib? Are the Pinnacles open? Are Eight mile campground and Bridge Creek still closed? I'd like to climb on some real granite, instead of Vantage choss. Thanks for looking.

This 'should you wear a helmet' topic always reminds me of the motorcycle helmet debate in California. It raged on for years back in the 80's?. The bikers insisted that they couldn't "feel free" if they had to wear a helmet. I think the law eventually passed. I'm thinking people don't wear seat belts for the same reason: they need to feel free. If I can do something to make my life safer, like always wearing my seat belt, not drinking and driving, and wearing a helmet when I bicycle, ski, and climb, I will. Feel free to call me an old woman. It's a personal choice. I climb with very smart people, some of them don't wear a helmet. I wish they would, but I don't bring it up. It's a free country for crying out loud. Are we done with helmets? And yeah, send Paul some healing energy. It would be so awesome if his sight came back.

the post was removed by Tara, his sister. I can confirm that he was not wearing a helmet. I, or my buddy Brett have talked on the phone with the family, his partners and his girlfriend. I suspect she pulled the story off the blog due to insurance, liability issues. With a helmet, it is likely he would just have some badly shattered hands, as opposed to having head injuries that led to being blind...so far. There is still hope!

x2 on teaching. I get 8 weeks off paid. Twice a year I get a full month off...jtree baby! In technical colleges, you don't even need a teaching degree, you just have to really know your stuff, and have the personality for teaching. We've got auto mechanics here who are teaching...they've never been to college, but they are awesome mechanics who have a natural gift for sharing what they know. I have to admit I did take a three year walkabout...but I was 17 and dumb as a lump on a log. Looking back I wish I had not done it. The hippie days were a complete waste of time during my critical "college years" when I could have been becoming something...like an engineer. If you have a job you can put up with, weekend climbing can be tolerable once you get that significant other...just make sure he or she is a climber. for many years I had a job I hated most of the time, but it paid the bills, and I had Sue to come home to, and climb with on the weekends. Still have Sue, the job is great, and I still climb...life is good.

definitely don't burn bridges. All my old employers would hire me back, assuming I could brush up on those skills. Something no one has mentioned, buy medical insurance, something with a high deductible to cover major accidents. Think: Paul Bailey. Personally, I think scamming unemployment is lame. Earn your way, live in your car, be the ultimate dirtbag, eat rice and climb until your savings are gone, but don't treat unemployment like a free ride. I see far too many people who are treating unemployment like a big mommy. I'm no economist, but all those people cheating on unemployment can't be helping this economy. There will be other chances at long trips. Life isn't over at 30, or even 50.

The full story, posted by another one of the people who were there that day is here: http://www.edgeworksclimbing.com/cgi/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1260472569 And yes, a helmet would have helped a lot. When one of my partners, who is a doctor, heard about the accident, her immediate response was: based on those injuries, he was not wearing a helmet. The news (about the helmet) was withheld for months. When it did appear on his blog, it was taken down the next day. Paul always wore a helmet when he climbed with me. Sadly, most climbers who get up into the 5.10 range stop wearing their helmets. And you can probably get away with it...most people do...but some don't. Do you feel lucky?

Hey Juliann, Oh, it's you! I see you two there all the time. Climbed with Wade yesterday. Even though I know a lot of climbers now, I still find myself looking for partners on the weekends from time to time. Many of my regular partners have become so good we don't even climb at the same cliffs anymore. Fletch, Christine and Craig for example are leading 11's and 12's, but I prefer 5.7 to 5.9, as I always have. Stay in touch, spring is coming

A little more information would be helpful. Or just introduce yourself! I am at edgeworks a lot, Mondays or Wednesdays around 6ish. Look for the two old gray haired guys with the lead rope...I climb a lot with Fletch, who doesn't have any hair at all :-) Once you get to know Fletch or me, there will be lots of trips outdoors. Someone from the gym crowd is going every weekend outside, all year around.

A former climbing buddy was in SAR and used to carry a ham radio. They are cool tools, though heavier than cell phones. I thought it would be a cheaper way to communicate with the wife as we coordinated car pooling around Tacoma. Cheaper than cell phones that is, no contract. And of course, tons more range than anything else, in the mountains. To get a ham license, you have to read a book and then take a test, in person, at a licensing office. I got halfway through the book: "Now you're talking!" before giving up and just buying another cell phone. The book is very technical. Lots of talk about electrical circuits, wavelengths, ohms and amps. It appeared to be about 30 hours of studying. You'd almost need to take an 'in person' training class to really understand it right. Plus the ham radios start around $500, and you need two...one for the wife. If I was a mountaineer, I would be tempted to go the ham route, but I just crag, and my droid suits me fine.

It depends on how you define off width, but if you mean 'bigger than fist', or awkward chimney, it's hard to beat Damnation crack on Jello Tower, castle rock, leavenworth. Also, meatgrinder up the icicle has some rattly fist jams, and can be toproped. At smith, bookworm is a classic 'bigger than fist' offwidth and can be toproped off of bunnyface. at index, the 5.7 crack across from toxic shock gets pretty big. I placed two big bros in it yesterday...fun stuff. also at index, libre 10a'ish just to the right of the rail road bolts can be toproped if you build an anchor with gear just above it's top. It's 'off hands' to fists.

Vantage rock fall is so random. You have people who never see it, and people like the OP, Sobo and myself who have been almost killed. Unfortunately, Vantage is the only place nearby you can go to find warm-ish dry climbing in the off season. After the last rock fall I swore I would never go back, but I've been there twice since. It's possible that the crack climbs are slightly safer because you are reaching inside the columns rather than grabbing plates on the outside...george & martha, air guitar, etc. I shudder when I see people without helmets there, but it's a free country. I've had friends take falls there on bolts and gear, and nothing pulled, I don't think that's too much of a problem. You should most definitely not stand directly under a climber if you can avoid it. And be ready to jump away at all times. I never take my helmet off until I am safely on the trail.