markwebster

I have this, for hard leads, and it works reasonably well, though it doesn't have the zoom you want: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012Y6AY8/ref=cm_rdp_product/189-6785761-0575807 The point and shoots are getting better all the time. I also had the g5, and it took great pictures in it's day, with a reliable movable focus point. It's surprising how many of my climbing friends are moving up to DSLR's lately. The T2i, with the cheap plastic lens is not that much heavier than a G12. People are making short films with the T2i that are simply amazing to the long time video people. Leave the beer behind and you've made up the difference. And now you've got a camera that can be manually focused through the glass. In low light situations like this: it is the rare point and shoot that can bring home a good picture. and then you can get into lenses, which takes you to a whole new dimension of fun: But I understand you are after ultra light weight in a small package, and the extraordinary power of a DSLR may not be worth it. For myself though, I'm thinking about upgrading my 50d to a 7d. The hd videos people are shooting with t2i and 7d are very compelling.

jtree for xmas baby! Be there or be Square. Sunshine, lots of trad, run out sport, drunken campfire parties, it's all there. Commence thread drift.

back to the original post about Southern Bell and the awesome thread over there. I was looking for pictures of Scott and found this website for the actor Jackie Chan where Scott Cosgrove(the stuntman, former climber) talks about how he no longer climbs hard because 30 of his climbing friends died. http://jackiechan.com/scrapbook/206231--Interviews-with-the-Rush-Hour-3-Crew--Part-Three- food for thought...

I have to ask, what crag do you climb at where this takes place? I As to the crags in question: walk along the base of glacier point apron in Yosemite, or the cliff to the right of Central Pillar of Frenzy, also Yosemite. Or the Peshastin Pinnacles, or some of the older bolted routes up the icicle. Also, many of the buttresses and topouts in Joshua Tree. It is true that if you climb every day, or are gifted with brass cohones, you can get used to big runnouts. It even happens to an old has been like me...on a long vacation. But for the average weekend climber, there is a lot of rock out there that is cursed with obscure routes no one does anymore for the reasons mentioned. It's a waste of perfectly good rock. And yes, you can avoid these issues by climbing trad.

Well said! That whole "fall into obscurity" thing translates into me walking along a beautiful cliff looking up at an old, obscure route, put up 30 years ago by some super climber who only placed 3 bolts in 120 feet. I'm supposed to worship him because he had huge balls, but in reality, I'm just sad that he ruined a great cliff. He probably doesn't even climb anymore...most people who climb at that level burn out in 10 years. But his obscure route lives on in obscurity. I think the only solution is for this ridiculous, pompous generation of idiots to retire into nursing homes. The new generation of climbers will hopefully have more common sense and address some of these issues.

That was some awesome reading! The interplay between Coz and Doug Robinson was eloquent. Several of the worlds best climbers debating their route ethics, with kindness and consideration. I've rarely read such a lucid description of "getting in the zone". But just to make a point, let's say that someone had led bunny face at Smith rock with 2 bolts, instead of the 8 or so that it has. Legions of beginner climbers would not be able to climb that buttress. It would stand as a "proud" testament to the balls of whoever led it in such "fine" style. And no one could add bolts, because it would be desecrating their grand accomplishment. Wouldn't that be a bit ridiculous? And selfish? With a limited amount of rock available, there has to be a balance between simply stroking your ego, and "developing" a cliff for future generations. I've put up run out routes, and I left them that way, due to public consensus. But I've learned from the error of my ways, and any new routes I put up will be safe at the grade. If I want to be remembered, I will paint a beautiful landscape painting, or write a book, not destroy a public cliff with an ego statement.

low profile is the word for sure. Though given that thought I should probably *delete this thread*? But it's not like folks don't know about it already. Hate to see it turn into the icicle canyon with no trespassing/no camping signs on every tree and pull out. I still remember sleeping at rat creek pullout back in the early eighties, that was all free and there would be 6 tents there on the weekend. Now it's all private land. Progress I guess.

I emailed the address above and received this response from a very nice person in the government: --------------- Hi, Mark, Thank you for taking the time to put your questions and concerns into an e-mail. We are gathering all comments regarding the possible park closures and sending them to the State Park Commissioners. Washington State Parks purchased the Peshastin Pinnacles from the Trust for Public Land in May 1991 for approximately $350,000. The Index Wall property was purchased by the climbing community, which in the process of giving it to Washington State Parks. If any of the State Parks are closed due to budget cuts, the public may still walk into the park to use it. The gates will be closed and the vault toilets locked. I trust the climbing community will take very good care of the park grounds. Thank you for your support! Cheers, (name withheld for privacy) Public Affairs Office Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission ----------------- I encourage all of you to write as well. And, I shouldn't have to say this...but speak politely, we don't want to give "the man" a bad impression :-) I love the Pinnacles. Bring back Trigger Finger!

That dirt road is probably one of the problems.I could tell they were trying to develop it by the telephone boxes all the way up. It must be expensive to maintain, and snowed in during winter. Be a heck of a nice ski run down though.

We had a great weekend over in Leavenworth recently. Brass Balls, the Bone, Angel, Damnation, Catapult, Regular Route Careno, etc. And we met two lovely ladies at Gutav's for some serious drinking around the campfire. You should'a stayed over Crillz! But my question is this: Does anyone know why there is a train track up on the ridge top south of Leavenworth? It's Mountain Home Road, and about 15 minutes from the Safeway store. And what is in the locked tunnel? It's a minute past the Star Wars boulder. It's hard to guess at the age, but maybe 30 years old? What's weird is there is no reason I can think of for a train track up there. I don't know of any tracks coming off that ridge around Leavenworth, and why build a track, when there are logging roads all over up there?

I always wear a helmet, as do my wife and both kids, who also climb. If my partner chooses not to wear one, I don't complain, though it makes me sad. All you need to know about wearing a helmet is here: http://paulbaileyinfo.blogspot.com/ Paul fell off a 5.8 move in Australia. The story from his belayer is here: http://www.edgeworksclimbing.com/cgi/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1260472569 Had he been wearing a helmet, it is likely he would be recovering from badly broken hands, instead, he is blind from the head injuries suffered from not wearing a helmet. Pictures of Paul at jtree, 6 months before the accident: http://www.websterart.com/html/jtree2008.html But hell, it is a free country. Wear a helmet, or not, I don't care. But damn, I miss Paul. He was an awesome partner, and a true friend, and now he is blind, because he fell on his head, without a damn helmet.

oh yeah, the lower gorge. I just discovered that this year. Cruel Sister 10a is one fabulous hand crack. I have yet to do it clean, but man is that some stellar climbing on fabulous rock. There are numerous other clean cracks nearby, but you really need to be comfortable at the 10b/c range to have a good time down there. Though, I'm not, and I keep going back.

hmm, call me an idiot then. This must be a troll. Back in '78 when I first went to smith there were only a small handfull of bolted climbs. I can remember Phoenix, Revelations, Dancer and Jute. On the back side there was bits and peices and 'in harms way'. Oh, there was sky ridge. But that was it, just a dozen or so bolted routes in total in the whole park. So when you went to smith, you crack climbed, or you very soon ran out of climbing. All of those crack climbs are still there, they were good back then, and they are still good now...and they aren't crowded, what's not to like? Granted, it's not Yosemite granite, but it's good enough once you learn how to place safe gear in the bumpy cracks.

my favorite trad climbs: lions jaw 5.8 Fridays Jinx 5.8 two pitches Cinnamon slab 5.6 (one half inch up to 4 inches) Moonshine Dihedral 5.9 Bookworm 5.9, up to 4 inches Lycophydophyta, combine first and second pitch, bring a ton of gear up to 3 inches, many medium sized, awesome route from ground to mesa top 5.8 Spiderman zebra zion, mostly mid size gear, but bring a full rack. 5.10a New Testament 5.10a Karate 5.10a, bring many hand sized (4 #2 yellow camalots), and down to one quarter inch for traverse. Don't forget Moscow, Peking and Super Slab 5.6 to 5.8. Pretty much a standard Leavenworth or Yosemite trad rack will do fine at smith

thanks. I can't wait to return. The rock is easier on the skin than jtree, but rougher than Yosemite. Definitely better, stronger rock than jtree...wish it was warm in winter, I'll have to wait for spring to return. My wife is going to love those mellow slab climbs.

Trip: City of Rocks and Smith, moderates - many Date: 9/20/2010 Trip Report: I had two weeks off and spent a week at smith and a week at City of Rocks. I've always thought Yosemite had the best climbing on the west coast, but after 6 days at the City, I'm a convert. [img:left]http://www.websterart.com/slideshowpro/gallery/album1/lg/IMG_2962.jpg[/img] Compared to Yosemite, City of Rocks has uncrowded camping, fewer crowds, cooler weather, better maintained trails and outhouses, signs to the crags, closer bolts on moderate climbing, and stickier rock. Oh, and it's only 11 hours from Tacoma on better roads, instead of 16. I did miss the long clean splitters in the valley, but considering the whole picture...I think I may spend the next couple vacations exploring The City. This line from the guide book to City of Rocks pretty much says it all: *The route called Theater of Shadows, 4 pitches of 5.7, has so many bolts your grandmother could lead it.* There are also many great crack climbs, in 6 days we were just cherry picking. I can't wait to go back. This link has the 34 pictures in a flash slideshow, set to the song: Fields of G*old. Rollover the images for the description. The first 9 pictures are from week 1 spent at Smith where we did Zebra Zion, among others. smith and City of Rocks Gear Notes: Bloody fingers, bring all the little cams you can beg borrow or steal. Up to 18 quick draws for some of the sport routes. We used a 5 camalot, and a green big bro, but only on a couple routes, and we could have done without them. Approach Notes: nothing longer than 40 minutes to get to Theater of Shadows, mostly no longer than 10 minutes.

I agree, that walk off is a nightmare. Carns everywhere, 4th class scrambling down sandy death slabs. We spent more time downclimbing that "walk off" than we did on the climb. With a guide who knows which carn is the real carn...maybe. I plan to hump over the top next time. I'd been there before, but 30 years ago.

I have the black diamond touchstone haulbag. It's heavy, but will last forever. If you were sewing one, or having one sewn, you can buy that fabric at Seattle fabrics, and put it just on the bottom 6 inches, where most of the wear happens. Old Millet packs from the seventies were built that way with leather bottoms.

that was funny! I got my knee stuck in Generator crack a month ago. First time that had happened. It hurt very bad, left scabs and bruises on both sides. I knew it was going to be a problem, and I was wearing a neoprene knee brace, thinking that would prevent the pain. It didn't. And I didn't get up it. Sadly, I would still like to go back and try it again. Need my head examined :-)

yes, that one is awkward, but only for a few feet. Definitely a soft 10b.

Hurricane huh? Cool name. It feels more like 10a or b. Ellies is much longer and more sustained, with more exposure. Really fun roof move on hurricane. Like the belly flop finish on Canary.

Tom is still making them. It took him a month to make my number 9. I just got it two weeks ago. Here I am wearing it at the yosemite apron: And here it is after saving my sorry butt on Generator crack, Yosemite. Yes, it really does work, even severely over cammed. But, no, I won't loan it out. It's my new baby, are you kidding? I learned an interesting thing after hanging on it while trying to lead Generator. Big cams do not a crack climber make. That is Sue, my better half, and my belayer.

I looked at cookie monster last year while doing Outer Limits. That thing is a very, very stout lead with or without bolts. While it is sad that it was bolted after being led on gear, that is by no mean the norm down there. As Off said, crack climbing is alive and well in the valley. In my limited vacation trips down there over the last few years I've seen no sign that the traditional crack climbs are getting bolted. If you want to climb ground up bolted routes in the valley, head to the apron, or Middle Cathedral. There are many routes with huge runnouts all over those areas. We wandered up Goodrich Pinnacle 2 weeks ago for 5 pitches. Holy crap, talk about runnouts. There was one bolt in the 5th pitch...not counting a nest of stacked rusty pitons. My partner James wanted to keep going up...but I got the hell out of there. Talk about a death route. I don't think that book will increase the bolting too much. Sport climbers are out there, and they have their drills, but the valley tends to be self policing.

the backpackers store has quite a legacy in Tacoma. They used to be called Base Camp down in Nalley Valley back in 1976. Joe and his son sold out to Marmot in the nineties. When REI showed up the writing was on the wall. Still, Backpackers was the place to go when you needed something specialized. REI tends to carry things that are an easy sell, but Backpackers had the exotic stuff, like Aliens, the Cinch, off brand nuts and cams. I guess I was part of this because I did buy a lot at REI for the return policy. But last winter when we upgraded our 3pin ski gear, the wife and I spent 3 grand at Backpackers...stupid REI doesn't carry tele gear. I'm sorry to see them go. There were always nice people there who knew their stuff.

I agree. I used to replace worn rap links&chains at the pinnacles and it can be pricey. Top rope, if you must, on your quickdraws. Last person up threads and raps. I used to think there was a way to discourage the big packs of gangbangers (one leader, 5 followers), but it has become the norm at sport areas. For me, this bad behavior is another reason to go trad climbing instead, preferably multipitch trad where toproping is not possible. I love trad climbers! Definitely a better, more experienced class of climber.