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Everything posted by Mountainstyle
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I did Lib Ridge July 5-7, 2006. There was decent ice above thumb rock, but there was plenty of rock/ice fall too. Saw a good sized ice fall/avy off of ptarmigan ridge. Willis Wall was alive with rock fall. Also, crossing the Carbon glacier was a bit of a chore, a lot of crevasses had opened up. I would say July is pushing it, and June would probably be better. When we did it there weren't any tracks or signs of other teams having gone up it recently. I think we might have been one of the last parties of the season to go up it. The weather was nice though, got a summit.
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[TR] Little Annapurna - North slog 10/1/2007
Mountainstyle replied to fettster's topic in Alpine Lakes
Great pics; lucky to hit the Enchantments and only see one other group of people! On a side note...so excited it is snowing in the mountains! I hope we have a good winter! -
Aw, don't clean your water bottles... all the stuff that grows in there just makes you stronger.
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Billy Benton- try the canadian avalanche center.... http://www.avalanche.ca This site might be helpful. Swing by T-town sometime why don't ya? Got the new hotub all hooked up.
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Wow, I guess times have changed. The last trouble I had with skull hollow was about 4 years ago. Some bored/drunk/local/redneck-style kids in a big lifted pick-up truck flying the confederate flag cruised into camp around 3 am, throwing rocks and bottles in the direction of the tents. Calling us "dirty hippies" as they drove donuts around camp. They left shortly after, we all went back to bed.... Ah, the joys of growing up in the country.
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Emmons Glacier or DC route?? Anyone?
Mountainstyle replied to MonteVerde's topic in Mount Rainier NP
Call the park and get a report from the rangers. The white river campground ranger station should have an update from Schurman. The approach from White River is "fun." The trail didn't fair well after the storms this winter. I was up there July 6-8, it isn't too bad... but you need to save some for the hike out. Personally, I like the Emmons route better than D.C. -
Pole creek, to the N side is a pretty straight forward approach, then follow the moraines around to gain the SE ridge. Just be extra-cautious of the choss up there on the SE ridge this time of the year. I pulled a large rock down on myself on descent at the end of June--broken ribs. If you ascend via the SE ridge and stick to the east side of the ridgeline, you tree out on some gendarmes about 2/3s of the way up. Good luck, I hope the wind isn't too bad for you guys!
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I went up at the end of june and things were pretty bare. Started out on early morning couloir, had a feeling I couldn't kick (it wasn't the usual climbing nerves) bailed on it. Did the more boring SE ridge, took a large-ish rock (boulder?) to the chest on descent, cracked some ribs (still was able to get on Rainier 3 weeks later. The traverse below the summit(prouty)pinnacle had snow but it was thinning and this was June. We were mostly on rocks, did chop some ice steps. I would definitely take a long ice axe. Good luck, enjoy the climb.
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Looks like a great climb. I did Lib Ridge last year, late in the season (right after 4th of July). There was a huge avalanche off Ptarmigan Ridge one of the biggest I've ever seen, glad you made it safely with the ice fall. Congrats. Excellent pics too!
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The Nepal Extremes are versatile, great for winter and early spring in the Cascades. I have never had cold feet with them, they do get a bit warm in the summer. They are not the most comfortable for hiking (If an approach is long I would reccommend bringing something to approach in). I've gotten heel blisters once in these guys, because I was "saving weight" and did a long approach in them. I have used them for waterfall ice as well as general cascade climbs. I prefer leathers to plastics, so maybe I am jaded in my answer.
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Out of curiosity, where did you approach from? I did Lib Ridge last July, put in at White River. I haven't been up to Rainier NP since all of the storms, looking to do a couple of routes near the end of June and trying to suss out some options. We are either looking to spend a week on Hood doing some North side routes, maybe Eliot Glacier Headwall or spend a week on Rainier, undecided on route(s) at this point. Depends on what is in. Any beta?
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Best All-Around Glove/Mitten System???
Mountainstyle replied to ClimbingPanther's topic in The Gear Critic
I would advise checking out some of OR's combinations. They have a lot to offer and I have never been dissapointed with their products. Plus, a lifetime guarntee. I have the Metorites right now, I used them on a Dec Mt Washington climb (unsuccessful due to weather) and I had dry, warm hands. -
How nice to live in a town where cow-chasing is the most (news) worthy thing the po-po have to do.
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I hate to tell you this, but tendonitus doesn't really ever go away--It is aggravated or less aggravated. I wrecked pretty hard on a mtn bike about 4 years ago, chipped some bone and did some damage to my patellar tendon in my right knee. I ignored the pain and kept up with my usual trail running mileage, until both my knees hurt due to compensation. I ended up going to a bunch of PT (at a clinic that specalized in sports PT) to strengthen my diminished muscle strength in my quads and hip flexors, and to loosen up my tight hamstrings. The PT helped, but the pain has never really gone away in my patellar tendon. Surprisingly a chiropractor can do wonders for you. If you get your spine re-aligned, and possibly also your pelvis, this can provide a lot of relief. But the tendon still hurts, especially after runs. I don't run on pavement anymore. I usually massage the tendon and sometime apply heat after a run for relief. I have gotten to the point that climbing doesn't hurt it much, (over the years that is). I say keep strengthing the muscles. Move through some of your pain, but also listen to your body. It will probably never heal 100%, but the good news is.... you can tell the weather with your knee know; whenever a damp cold storm front is moving in your knee should hurt worse.
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Check out Outdoor Research, I am a 6 ft woman and I can find pants long enough for me. I need at least a 36 inch inseam... maybe the men's items would work for you.
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Nice work Billy, I want to hear all about your trip. I don't doubt your leopard man-thong either, I've seen your matching leopard home decor.
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Anybody climb Lib Ridge about this time of year?
Mountainstyle replied to Jens's topic in Mount Rainier NP
I did Lib Ridge on July 5th last year, it was definitely chossy with long sections of steep ice above Thumb Rock. There was constant rockfall all around and a nice ice/snow avvy off of Ptarmigan ridge. We simul-climbed above thumb rock, and only protected one move near the top with two screws about 10 feet apart. When we did the route I don't think anyone had been on it for over a week or two. Also, we put in at White River... saves lots of time from the Isput approach. Good Luck. -
Looks fantastic. I was supposed to get on Yocum the 29th-31st, but got a bad chect cold instead. The weather window was great too... it looks like perfect winter conditions. I am definitely a bit jealous. Congrats!
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[TR] Index- Davis-Holland/1st pitch of Lovin Arms
Mountainstyle replied to olyclimber's topic in North Cascades
Nice job guys! I was floating the river (we did the fun stretch 3 times yesterday) and everytime we rafted by I was jealous I wasn't out climbing. We could just make out a white shirt from the river and someone in red. We watched you guys at the hanging belay in the photo above. It's nice to see up close what I was jealous of from afar. -
Great job, I am glad you finally got your summit! I just came off this route yesterday, so much snow has melted off and there was plenty of rock fall. There were a couple of obscure tracks, but it didn't look like it had been climbed for a while. We went left of the pyramid and climbed a snow bridge onto a 50-60 foot section of ice, placing two screws at the bottom. Great exposure, and then topped out. Sounds like your ascent was quite the adventure!
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[TR] Mt Rainier ski in-a-day- Emmons 7/9/2006
Mountainstyle replied to Tony_Bentley's topic in Mount Rainier NP
Tony, thanks for passing the word on the lost ice axe (not a bad price to pay for a great climb). Your photos are great; you guys are the animals for the one day push and ski descent! We watched your progress up Inter Glacier, you guys were hauling. -
[TR] Mt Rainier ski in-a-day- Emmons 7/9/2006
Mountainstyle replied to Tony_Bentley's topic in Mount Rainier NP
Looks like you guys made it! I was one of the two climbers you ran into hiking out through Glacier Basin. Looks like you had some nice turns down Inter Glacier. Way to go! -
I was descending Rainier (Liberty Ridge-I will post a trip report soon) in the wee hours of Sunday Morning (9 July) and lost my ice axe as I glissaded down Inter Glacier. I looked for it in the dark but no luck. Missing equipment is a Petzel Charlet Moser axe w/a blue daisy chain-leash (which I obviously did not utilize during my glissade). I would be awfully grateful if anyone found it and returned it. Thanks!
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Sounds like a Bill Trip... nice work, take me with you next time!
