ilookeddown

Kevbone thanks for the report.

With your climbing experience I would choose another route. I skied it last month and it was extremely unrewarding. I will never ever do the Easton again. It is sort of cool to see the crater and the Roman was fun but the rest of it is low angle and boring and all the sleds buzzing by didn't help either. I am just glad that I didn’t have to walk it. Just my opinion, but choose a more rewarding route.

I don't feel the lower sections are grid bolted. Most are near a full rope length. What do you think? 1st 5.6 w/2 bolts 2nd 5.6 w/5 bolts 3rd 5.6 w/2 bolts 4th 5.8 w/9 bolts 5th 5.7 w/9 bolts 6th 5.8 w/5 bolts 7th 5.7 w/7 bolts 8th 5.6 w/3 bolts 9th 5.9 w/10 bolts 10th 5.7 w/7 bolts 11th 10b w/9 bolts 12th 5.7 w/6 bolts 13th 5.1 w/1 bolt 14th 5.8 w/8 bolts 15th 5.0 w/2 bolts Unless some have been added in the last couple of years.

I have roped up once while skinning up and never on the ski down. One of my regular partners weighs 75lbs more than me. I honestly don’t think I would be able to stop either of us if he were to fall and pulled me with him. I guess the way I look at it is I would rather only have one of us in a crevasse. We always have our harness on and each carry a rope and enough equipment to hopefully get the other out. It may not be the best way to travel but it is what we are comfortable with.

I guess we all know where this thread is heading but I thought add something before it gets out of hand. I was up there a few years ago and I didn't have a problem with the 15th pitch (5.0 with 2 bolts). At the top of the 15th we decided to just go strait up to the bottom of the 17th. I guess that area of route isn't bolted b/c it is 4th class so the climbing is very easy and there is not much solid rock in the area to place any bolts. (see picture below rapping off the 17th anchors). The only problem we encountered was we missed the anchors at the top of the 15th on the way down and ended up rapping off a few trees until we found the anchors at the top of the 13th. As for the down climb on the ramp, we played it safe and rappelled off trees but did end up missing those anchors. In that area is is very easy to get "lost" on the way down because the route does zig zag a bit.

We climbed up a few thousand feet to check out our route. We looked at the Adams and felt we couldn’t ski it but it could be climbed. The bergschund spans the glacier. It is very, very large. Wish I would have taken some picture from higher up. If I get up there this weekend I’ll post some pictures.

Thanks for the info. I will get up there by next Wednesday and attempt to fix all the problems that have been expressed. If anyone finds any other issues feel free to PM me and I will look in to it.

I was up there last weekend. It can be climbed this time of year. (Skied a different route) I was looking at it more as a skier and it would be a very difficult ski. I have a friend who has climbed it as late as late August. I was there all weekend and did not see anyone on that side of the mountain. I have no plan for this weekend and it is looking good. Let me know if interested

I was involved with some of the development of the Neverland area. The one route I did all the cleaning and the bolting on "The Hamster" 5.9 (Smea wall). I was also involved in some of the cleaning and bolting of "I Wanna Go Home" 5.9 2p (Lost Boys Wall). I will take responsibility for those routes I and if there are any problems with them please let me know. I hope that richard noggin can soon explain which routes he is referring to. There are 16 routes and 4 separate walls. Please explain where the problem is and I will fix it! Thanks

FYI Adams Glacier 7/1

I said noting about repairing or replacing? I am just inquiring about his/her statement.

So you personally know the climbing and FA resume of all the individuals involved in the development of the area?

Trip: Silver Peak - Date: 6/25/2007 Trip Report: My friend Steve broke his pelvises while skiing at Mission Ridge on February 13 of this year. One of his goals was to ski again before his birthday on July 2nd. Monday morning Snoqualmie Pass got some new snow. Adam and I decided to take him to Silver Peak that afternoon. The snow was crusty and we got less than 1k of vertical, but it was great to get him back on skis. It was about a year to the date that we skied off Rainier together. Starting out Touring with I-90 below First Trun

I suggest you either identify which routes you are referencing so people can be aware of the problem or email info@northbendrock.com and report your problem with a route so it can be addressed. Thanks

Up there last Weekend. Snow was good up high. Bad w/the sicky crap low.

i used to use dromedary bags but stopped because whenever i filled them up from a stream, or glacier, or anywhere else where the outside of the bag came in contact with water, the outer fabric material would absorb the water. As a result, when in my backpack, anything that touched the bag got wet too. kinda sucked... Yep

Second for this. I would stay away from the Osprey packs for ski mountaineering. They have many great features (almost too many) but hate the way the weight is distributed. The pack just simply sticks too far out behind you. If you are packing anything other than standard day touring gear you will hate it. It seems to just throw you on every turn if loaded with more than 15lbs. I have over a dozen packs and hate to get rid of gear I have purchased. I gave away my Osprey. For big multi-days I like the Deuter guide 45+ w/the new OR crampon bag attached to the outside. (It can hold crampons, ski crampons and ice screws) The Deuter has every option you would want and is fairly light. My standard pack is the Lowe Alpine Vision 25. It's just a sack with outstanding support and compressibility. Nothing fancy and holds gear like is a 35+.

Kix Thanks for giving me a tour of the area on Saturday. The area has many possibilities. With increased traffic it could be outstanding. There are many boulders with problem from 12' to 18' top-outs. All are vertical to overhanging. Some of the landing areas could use some attention IMO but overall I got a great workout and will go back. Again, if it saw some more traffic and a little development it will be a fun place to spend the day.

I knew Brian and we planned to do some stuff when he got back. He was so excited to go to AK. I am shocked and saddened to hear this news.

If you are talking about Easy Street (wall), there is a belay bolt that can be used to self belay. There is a bit of run-out toward the top of one of the routes but the climbing is very, very easy. Good place to learn to climb, but there is a little exposure since it sort of on a ledge. It can be intimidating for some beginers since you are a few hundred feet above the freeway. There can be some communication problems b/c of the freeway noise as well.

Bailed off the Fuher Finger due to bad weather on Saturday. Another group in front of us also turned around at about 12K. The skiing was good.

Buy one of these: If I recall correctly, my alarm woke me up at 630am. Thanks for the advice though. Ben I don't know where your van was parked when you awoke at 6:30, but I try and get to the start of something I want to climb by 7:30 at index. I have never had to wait on any occasion. I have noticed a lot of people show up around 9am. I have not climbed there this year, is the area seeing more traffic?

I guess its the way a route is rated. Do you rate it for the hardest move or how the entire route goes. In a gym, you can manufacture the route so every move goes at the same grade. Only a few slabs and cracks can do that.

Your correct it is not,but if you went about 680' up north slope you said the group was on you would be.

I was wondering if you guys get a special use permit to bring that many people out there? The regulations say no more than 12 and that would include any animals.