ilookeddown

http://www.northbendrock.com/BookUpdates/Exit38/Neverland.htm Most climbs are clean. Please PM me (Dave) or email Garth @(info@northbendrock.com) if you find anything that need attention. Thanks, Dave

I am having shoulder surgery next Thursday. Looking to get out one last time this year. PM if interested.

Two days ago I took the day off and skinned up to the Chair Peak Basin. I left from the top parking lot of Alpental toward Source lake on a 3"crust of snow. I have never seen such poor coverage all the way to the lake. The talus field above source lake still had exposed rocks and all the drainages were exposed. I worked my way up to the Basin where the snow coverage was about 4' deep 2" had been baking in the sun all day. I had my probe but didn't bother to measure the exact depth. I released one slab 3-6" thick and 30 feet across that ran for about 300m. Saw one huge point release just below the basin near the snow lake divide. I got some turns in until I skied down to around 4,500 feet where I need to concentrate on avoiding rocks rather that skiing. Skied back to the car via the Snow Lake Trail because my approach route sucked so bad. Had to take my skis off at least 15 times b/c there was not snow to ski on in places. It would be the way I would do the approach if I were to do it again until there is more coverage. Discovered I lost my shovel on somewhere on the trip so if anyone going into to area happens upon it and would like to return it please PM me. Took my skis into the shop on the way home to get some base repair done.

Climb: Abiel Peak-via: Lk Annette Date of Climb: 11/14/2004 Trip Report: It sucked. I will do it again when the snow is in. Great views, sweat a lot, and had fun. Gear Notes: ice (mud) axe: very useful Approach Notes: Follow the lake Annette trail to the lake. Go to the right, cross the creek, follow the trail until ends and go up. Look to the right and the peak is there. Go back the way you came. We didn't and wished we did.

Theft seems to be problem lately. I have been hit 4 times in the last year. The first 2 times they didn’t get much. A few months ago they got climbing gear which I was stupid enough to leave in my car. Of these 3 incidents I am sure the thieves were just looking for anything they could take and I’m not sure they knew what they got when they got my gear. The last theft was the most disturbing. I was at vantage at the lower walls on 3/27. I had parked down in the lower pull out. It was 8:30 in the morning and the second car there. As I was walking up the approach trial I looked back at my car. I saw a black Civic, pull up sit there awhile, and then leave. I thought it was strange and but figured if they did try and break in they would see there was nothing and just leave. We climbed until around 1:00pm and decided to call it a day because of very high winds that weren’t letting up. When I got to the car the window was smashed and nothing taken. I had forgotten about my sunglasses and a pair of Marmot gloves that were sitting near the gearshift that was not touched. Seems they tried to get the cheep stereo without any luck. As we pulled out I noticed a maroon Toyota truck with 3 people sitting in the cab driving up and down the road. They did not seem to look like climbers. I followed them for a little way until they just stopped in the middle of the road and just sat there. I decided to go around them and leave. When I did they turned around and went back to the lower lot. The reason I am posting this is to encourage people to keep an eye out for one another. I will not be parking in the lower pull out anymore. It is just too isolated and doesn’t see as much traffic. It just too bad that we don’t have the freedom to park our car or leave gear at the bottom of a climb without worrying if our stuff will be there when we return.

I left the trailhead at around 6:00am. Made it 1/2 up Red and headed down at 7:45. The snow was starting to set up well on sun expose slopes on the way down. Shady areas were still hard and icy. I couldn't see my tracks it was so hard in some places. At the time of this reply it is still 47 degrees up here. If I were to do it tomorrow I would leave at 7:00am just to get ahead of all the weekend snowshoe traffic. Desend by 10 or 11am before it gets too sloppy.

Climb: Red Mt.- Date of Climb: 4/2/2004 Trip Report: Skied up to Red Mt. this morning. Just went ½ up the west face before turning back. Too icy to continue safely w/o crampons which I did not bring. Snow seemed to be setting up nicely on the trip down. Should be a great day for spring skiing later in the morning. The sky was clear and temp. in the mid 30’s Did observe some fresh avalanche debris on the lower east facing slopes of cave ridge and on the west face of Red. Gear Notes: AT set up. Should have brought ski crampons or started later in the morning. Approach Notes: Started at the commonwealth trailhead. Followed the old PCT to the basin. Kept high on the east side of the basin below Kendall. If you stay low in the basin you will have so negotiate multiple creek crossings. One the decent I chose the west side of the basin so I could get some soft snow, I skied the lower slopes of Cave Ridge and Guye Peak. Once back at the creek I stayed NW of the creek and below south rib of Guye down to the road.

Please help me understand how to "earn the right" to spend time in a particular place. Who do I check with to make sure that I am ready? For some people out there, a guide service may answer that question for them. Some people go on guided trips for the companionship of being with others who have the same things in common. A few just feel more secure knowing that the guide is there to show the way, fix what's wrong, or encourage when needed. Others just may want to try it out to see if they like it. Isn't that better than them going out and getting lost or killed because they do not have the experience or knowledge to know better?

My girlfriend who lets (makes) me carry her crap.

Since I broke my ski today and my plan fow tomorrow is now trashed, I would like to climb.

In the past, the best snow has been in January and early February. (last year does not count) The week seems to be looking good. May be a little crusty in the morning, should soften up for the ski down.

I plan to be at the Marble Mt. sno-park between 8:30 - 9:00am.

I am looking for people to skin Mt St Helens on Feb 12. I have room for 3 in the car.