Chad_A

Fair enough, I get where you're coming from. Thanks again!

Joe- I really appreciate your input, and your taking the time to post it here. I realize that it's all too easy to be at the local bookstore, and choose high goals from a guidebook after one has a few steep Cascade routes under their belt. So, when is it time to turn up the heat? If a person is comfortable on WI4, can slog just fine, and deal with exposure on steep terrain (knife edge ridges, etc), then would you say "hell, go for it." Or, is it still better to do something much more gentle and just deal with the learning curve...and turn up the difficulty later? I don't want to get myself killed on my first trip, and I don't want to cut myself short, either. Maybe it would be better to try something on Huntington and/or Peak 11,300, instead...I had just always had my eye on Hunter, and it's hard for me to turn away from that. Thanks much for the input, again; just trying to understand the "Alaska Factor" the best that I can. Sheesh...maybe I should go to Peru, instead

Allright...someone must know somethin'!

Thanks for that information; that's the pertinent stuff I was looking for...the stuff that you don't read about, and from the pics, well, it seems ALL of the routes are exposed at one point or another to hanging glaciers. So, does the Lowe-Kennedy get done often? Any recent route information on that one would be great as well. I know High Alaska states that you're exposed at the base of the route to the hanging glaciers above (but seems to play it down a little.) I'll have to look into the SW Ridge, Dan, though I was trying to stick to the Northern aspect, as what I've derived is that much less time is spent approaching, and more time climbing, from that side. Thanks for all the help and input, and oh yeah...have a great Holiday, everyone

Looking for information on Mystic Jewel, or Rattle and Hum. I used High Alaska and Alpinist 9 as references, but the info seems to run out there. Looking for an Alaska Grade 4ish route on Hunter to cut my teeth on, without defaulting to the West Ridge. These two routes appeal to me, but I'm having a hard time finding information on them. I tried Googling them, but to no avail. Any information would be helpful; gear, weather, etc. Descent information would be nice, I'm assuming that the West Ridge would be best, but again, I'm open to suggestions. Also, if anyone has any specific pertinent information that I haven't thought of, I'd appreciate it. Highway of Diamonds on Foraker is another option. Leave the spray in the spray forum; I'm not looking for a smart assed opinion on this one; just the facts, ma'am. Thanks for your support.

I know it's not the Black Dagger , but it was still fun. Pics of Rodney and I on Crown Jewel a couple days ago:

Any idea what time they filmed that? Just wondering. We were on it until about 11:20. Apparently the crew was coming back from Hood River, so it was probably early afternoon. It was probably you! Chad, when you told me you were up there I was wondering if that was you on the tube. They keep showing the video (I've seen it at least 3 times now)... keep on the lookout. If it's you then you be famous! Will you sign my axe? There you go, Kevin, wasn't us. But, I'll still sign your axe...if you buy the pitcher of brew J/K!

It gets reasonably crevassed; the big ones that lurk there are pretty obvious. We walked by them without any issues on our way to try to get to the Sandy Glacier.

Any idea what time they filmed that? Just wondering. We were on it until about 11:20.

Partner found

I'd like to head out early (6-7 a.m.) or so; Crown Jewel looks nice. Just saw two people rapping off of it. Shoot me an email, or even better, call at 506791187. Chad

No. I have a couple of "blemished" Turbo Expresses; the curved taper of the cutting surface has some slight "waves" it that reflect in the light, but otherwise you can't tell the difference, and they don't place any different from the non-blem items I have. Just to be on the safe side, though, I'd make them fess up to what they mean by "cosmetic blems" when you buy them, just in case there's other reasons they might be selling them cheaper. Hope this helps.

I've seen quite a few haul snowboards up. I'd just time your climb a little later, so the snow has time to soften a bit. Yesterday, things were icy when we were descending at ~8 a.m.

Ok, man, get better; seems like everyone, including myself, has gotten, or is getting that bug. If anyone decides to get out Sunday a.m. (6-ish?) let me know, 503 679 1187. If I don't get called out to work all night long, I'd like to go throw around the tools before it goes away. The only thing I'd need a partner to bring along is their own tools, and a second half rope (I only have one 8.5mm). I have a 9.8 rope that I can use for TRing stuff. A few more medium screws might be helpful. Chad

Hi, I'm in Portland. If possible, I'd like to do Crown Jewel, or something like that, Sunday a.m. I have gear, and a Jeep as well, hehe. Shoot me an email, or a PM. Talk to you soon. Chad anderson7149atcomcastdotnet

Check yo' PMs.

Hi, just up there today. The Reid has a couple of big cracks, but easily avoided. Pretty closed up, otherwise.

Thanks, Blake. You still in town? Or headed back to Bellingham?

Sweet! Here ya go...

The PRG would be the closest, but not really close. I'd give you an overview, but it would be better to go to www.portlandrockgym.com

Cool- I was out there on Tuesday and Wednesday a.m. It was great! Good place to warm up on for the first ice of the year. Got to hang out with some nice climbers. I wish we could've gotten more pics, but I don't think my digital would've put up with the constant spray of ice water. One of the pics is courtesy of Rodney, the other two from my g/f, Megan. Here's a few : Chris and I wearing our suits of armor, here.

Scenic: Curtis Ridge, on our LR trip this past summer.

On our way to Hood yesterday, we took a ride through the Gorge. I had my binoculars with me; from what I could see only one thing was climbable, but maybe from the WA side you can see more? Yeah, the winds were WHIPPING too. It'd be pretty damn chilly getting blasted by wind and sprayed with water at the same time. But, that's ice climbin'...

Very nice. Did you guys finish via the rim, or the Queens Chair?

Hmm...someone in your group told me differently???