downfall

BTW, what is basic and advanced?

How does the concept make sense? We typically try and have an enviornment where everyone helps and supports everyone else regardless of what stage of their physically development/training they are in. I work out with people lots stronger than me as well as people who are less strong and I can't see how a t-shirt/lable would improve that.

http://www.0friction.com/thumbz.php?area_id=472 Not really a huge secret if its up on 0friction and people spray about it on boldering.com

In term of modifying the weekly intake of your normal zone proportions when climbing or doing other work at higher intensities there are a few issues which come up: 1. Most atheletes do a 5x or 10x multiplier on the fat over their daily intake. Once you get off the insulin rollercoaster fat becomes a much more efficient and viable source of calories. Thus any variability I have is done primarily with fat. 2. I've heard of people fat loading before long efforts (like 2/3 days climbs), supposedly you need to do it 3 or so days in advance up to the day of activity. I haven't tried this myself though. 3. In terms of just increased calories when out in the mountains I just eat more snacks/blocks but I still do it in the protein to carb zone ratio. So Jerkey with My GU + Mac nuts. 4. One big problem I've developed with the zone while climbing is that I don't vary my diet enough in terms of the schedule. The prescriptive nature of the zone makes it easy to get on a daily schedule but any time this is thrown off, which is very frequent when climbing, I tend to crash hard. Last fall I did a short period of a program called intermitent fasting where for every 24 hour period you do 15 hours of fasting and 9 hours of eating your normal zone portions; you also move the 15 hours fast around within the 24 hour period. Lots of theories I don't understand around this but its kind of hard to stick to and now I just try and vary my eating schedule more.

I don't think the zone should be classified as a high protein diet (implying low carb). Its actually 40% carb, 30% protein, and 30% fat. The problem with upping carbs is that if its the wrong type of carbs (i.e., high glycemic index) it triggers an insulin response which then prevents the body from being able to metabolize fat as an energy source. Entering the Zone has the reference on this. Its not really about carbs vs protein vs fat it about maintaining a balanced insulin level and the zone argument is that the ratio is the best way to do that. If you don't have a crazy insulin roller coaster going on in your body your body can use fat, protein, or carbohydrate to make glucose. The other aspect of the ratio of the zone is hormonal optimization which underlies everything in how your body works. Its more complicated than just boiling it down to energy for your muscles or brain.

ZMA scares me. Does your doctor recommend it, or the creatine? That stuff just dehydrates me; also if its a transport it probably contains sugar. Ever think about trying to get more natural protein? Whey is easy but absorbed pretty fast. I go with at most 2 tbsp/day. Check out egg protein (can't remember what its called though) if you need to supplement and its not getting cooked (its be gross in the oatmeal).

I stay away from grains altogether but don't really know about sprouted grain versus other breads. I do 15 zone blocks per day which equals 135g carbs, 105g protein, and all the good fats I can get.

Its not new but its contrary to current ineffective diet of low fat and high carb which pervades most nutritional advice you get or have gotten in the last 20 years. One element promoted by Barry Sears which is new and unique is partnering high doses of pharmacutical grade fish oil with the diet.

Don't confuse the word diet with a means to loose weight. I've been on the zone for 3 years and my body weight hasn't changed a pound though my body fat percentage has. Diet is basically just guidelines for eating. Food is one of the most effective drugs you put in to your body and you should treat it like a drug (at least thats what the zone says). The aspects of the zone which I use it for are increased energy and improved recovery. Though as a byproduct of only feeding the lean body mass on your body you tend to loose fat as well. some zone basics (my interpretation): Cereal = sugar Rice = sugar wheat = sugar don't eat sugar whole foods, where the fiber is intact with the protein and carb are the way to go.

I use macadamian nuts to help control the cravings when getting off the sugar addicition. Milk tends to satiate cravings as well. Train your body to run off good fats and the right type of high fat foods are ok, and actually are essential.

What is fitness, the long answer: http://www.crossfit.com/cf-download/CFJ-trial.pdf

So this summer am heading out on a 2 week trip this summer which will take me across two roads in the cascades which will be reasonable places to place a food cache. If you were leaving two caches in the cascades how would you protect your food. Is there any option i'm not thinking of?

I_like_sun, do you have anything to comment on the zone, or zone meals? None of your posts inspire any confidence that you know what you are doing w/r/t diet or exercise. If you wan't to learn and have some questions then ask.

I_like_sun, how long is it going to take you to find a different program, what you are doing is not working for you. If you have to use a machine or if you have to work out for more than 10 minutes with one movement do something else.

If you are keeping a constant insulin level (which is what the zone boils down to) you need lots less calories than you think. 3000 calories a day is a myth based on our crappy corn based insulin rolercoaster diets. Read The Omnivores Dillema or Entering The Zone if you want more info.

Zoneing for about 3 years now and I tend to go with the simple Meat/Eggs + fruit or veggies + black beans + macadamian nuts at most every meal. Kind of boring and not for the chef but gets the job done and easy to stick with it. Snaks are usually just plain milk + fish oil in afternoon then fruit shake + protein powder + fish oil in evening. Dont ignore the black beans though unless you are able to stomach 4 or 5 cups of veggies.

Plenty of cario you can do while having foot injuries. Its not all about running or riding (but I guess it is if you like repeated stress injuries). http://www.crossfiteastside.com/2007/01/down_19.html

http://59a2.org/lara/lara.html

What is a split?

By 15-20 miles per week I'm assuming you are referring to running? Maybe stop running? There is better, more applicable, less likely to end up with stress injury, training available these days (like crossfit). Also fish oil + asprin has helped prevent and heal stress injuries I end up with from climbing. PM me if you are interested in more info. Maybe doesn't help your immediate problem but might help you break the cycle.

Edited: Sorry didn't realize you were quoting that site. I think the core issue is that Twight has been charging the US military for stuff which has always been public and free through crossfit. Its about ethics not about copyright. I know this whole fall out between crossfit and twight happened a long time before 300.

Alpine-Mt Constance Cragging-Outer Space Scenic-Star Peak

Long shot but lost my ice axe somewhere in 2 miles below little 8 mile lake; should be on the existing skin track if anyone skis up there in the next week or two. Initials "SC" on shaft in red fingernail polish. Will provide reward if found. thanks scott

Like already said here, listen to your body. But when your body tells you its too much you typically can start to address this through diet. Don't just add empty calories. Check out some of the crossfit info on rest (as they train super hard) and diet (they recommend the zone) and I think it will help you out. Stear away from processed carbs and balance your protein, carbs and esp fat. If you are training like you explain you probably should be training your body to be a fat burner but your body can't burn fat if you are feeding it cliff bars and gatorade all day. Probably plays a role in why you are never are able to recover. www.crossfit.com or PM me if you have specific questions.

I also have been suffering the patellar tendonitus for about 6 months now and just talked with my podiatrist about it and all he recommended was the knee strap thing which seems to be helping. Says just wear it when it hurts and eventually it will go away. I've also been trying to do the following things: 1. Fish oil + asprin every day. 2. Eat raw foods (a triathelete who I work out with developed massived tendonitis + calcification of his tendons by over training and over-carbing his diet which is pretty typical advice you see sometimes esp for someone who trains for those sports. Keep eating your meat, raw veggies, and stop that long distance bs unless you are out climbing). 3. Stop jumping until it heals. Its not called jumpers knee for no reason. 4. Ice massage after working out (put water in dixi cup, freeze, peel back and massage away on the tendon). 5. Stretch your hamstrings and lower back. So many people have fucked up lower legs because of these very typical problems. I've been trying to improve these and have seen the results in my knees. BTW, the ability to do a weighted overhead squat is good indicator of the flexibility and functionality of your posteior chain of muscles.