 
        John Frieh
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Everything posted by John Frieh
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	a) ride to work b) work to ride c) work your ass off d) ride your ass off e) ride to work your ass off f) work to ride your ass off g) all of the above h) none of the above i) fill in the blank __________
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	The new cobra will weigh less than the current quark. Ice tools explained: A great way to predict how well an ice tool will match one's natural swing dynamic is the pick angle. The greater the pick angle the better a particular tool will hook edges (i.e. dry tool) especially in overhanging terrain but as the angle increases the tool will depart from ones natural swing dynamic. This will result in people sitting around bitching about it on the internet and/or they must learn how to modify their swing dynamic. The less/lower the pick angle the better the tool will match one's natural swing dynamic but will result in it being more difficult to hook (i.e. drytool) edges especially as in overhanging terrain. A great example of pick angle is the quark has a ~29.5 degree pick angle, the nomic has a ~31 degree where as the BD fusion has a ~32 degree pick angle. The fusion is the best mixed tool; the quark is a great pure ice tool and the nomic can do each fairly well but isn't the best at either one. Starting to make sense? And since you are wondering the new cobra will check in around 30.5 degrees pick angle. And keep in mind: when someone says "that tool's swing sucks" what they are really saying is "I haven't climbed enough ice to know how to modify my swing to get it to climb better". Go back and look what tools Lowe used on the first ascent of bridal veil Falls (CO) and then reconsider bitching about how a tool swings. Make due with what you got. Spray less. Climb more.
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	Yeah! It sucks he agreed to that bet (assuming the bet story is true)...
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	Not even close... Off the top of my head Layton has way more TRs than I do... I'm willing to bet a number of posters have contributed more than me. I honestly don't have the time to write one for every weekend so I try to limit it to just "unselected" or ones missing from the database... I guess I rather read TRs than spray...
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	I'd be stoked to see a list of posters who have contributed the highest # of trip reports. Or # of TRs/# of posts.
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	I told Roj you were onsighting M7/WI6 on switchblades and he was stoked! I think I can hook up a free upgrade if you are still driving those relics...
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	To date ODOT has chopped all routes/holds/bolts off bridges.
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	Yeah, thats a good suggestion. We have a similar issue down here at rocky butte... who ever they are felt so strongly about no bolts ( ) on certain routes they took the time to hand saw 2 - 1" bolts off Glue ins might be the way to go... That or literally drill a v thread in the rock and let peeps v thread the thing
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	:laf: The one I'm working on right now should last longer than 6 months! I told you I'd help you build a climbing wall in your backyard! It will help your property value anyways You should pay for one to be made Kirb! You're making the big bucks these days!
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	first ascent [TR] Mt. Stuart - Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (FA) 4/29/2007John Frieh replied to Colin's topic in Alpine Lakes Fine work Colin and Dylan. I hope this route ensures the memories of Lara live on with all of us... her departure is a huge loss to the PNW climbing community and she leaves big shoes for future aspiring alpinists... male or female... to try and fill. Peace to all who knew and loved her.
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	I was directing the question to i like sun... I can assure you I have the manifesto close to memorized I should add for muffy and i like sun anybody can consume 2000, 3000, or more calories fairly easily... what is much much more important of what constitutes that 3000 calories... I could hit 3000 very easily with a 1/2 a dozen doughnuts or a few beers or any other number of ways which we all know is bad news as it is poor fuel... what I am getting at is it is not a "eat more or a certain # of calories" but instead "eat the correct amount of what is right" And don't forget... Food is crack!
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	Some would say 3500 calories a day isn't insanely healthy... or healthy at all for that matter... How do you define health? How do you define fitness? Just curious...
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	I know... I know... I suck. My close friend's sister passed the day befor sausagefest so I didn't show... So who is showing slides this time?
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	Is anybody showing slides?
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	proper breakfast dietJohn Frieh replied to Miloshk_Antonopov's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum How about Brienne? Is that better I am 1 week into no coffee/no It sucks! Let's go climbing!
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	proper breakfast dietJohn Frieh replied to Miloshk_Antonopov's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum Finally, another granola hippie! When I'm super active I cant' stomach the knarly grease in the mornings.... it'll just end up back on the counter... I like the whole oatmeal with whey protein powder, flaxseed, almonds, honey, cinnamon and whatever other super high calorie stuff you can think of. Either that, or just copious quantities of dark chocolate and thermos esspresso...... nothing works better than pure adrenal carnage to get you up a glacier at 1:00am! steel cut oats are the best kick start for in the morning cuz they take alot of energy to digest which starts the body up....so i hear. and I forgot about coffee. Oh and replace the honey (which actually is glorified sugar) with the grade b maple syrup (full of minerals and vitamins). I'm on a "cleanse" right now so my breakfast involves salt water and lemon/syrup/cayanne water...spam a woman i know at my office has been doing that. when i talked to her on friday she was on day 7 and had dropped more than 10 pounds. she looks like hell though and doesen't have the energy to work out. I want to try it but i don't have the time to be on my ass for 2 weeks. how is your energy level holding up to the lack of chewing stuff??? This is my second cleanse (the first i did for 11 days with 2 weeks eating raw after). This time I'm going for 15 plus. I feel great actually. Lots of energy, climbing, running. I work with kids all day and its been fine. Your co-worker may not be following it EXACTLY which you really need to do. I have not lost weight, i didn't the last time either. PM me for more info. Hey Brie! Are you giving up the during this cleanse?
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	As requested. PM me if you want the full size ones
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	Let's hear 'em... what are your favorites? Breakfast, snack, lunch, dinner... Looking for a serving size in line with 1600 total cals/day
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	arctic monkeys and black rebel motorcycle club next month! :rawk: :rawk:
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	Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool nightJohn Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners See you there. I'll bring a rope.
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	Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool nightJohn Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners club sport 6:30ish tonight 5 punch passes are 1/2 price through the end of the month
