John Frieh

sent you an email

Goat Wall.

And the best climbing in Washington is in Idaho! Well if you want to whine about state borders yes: WA beats us in quality and quantity. I would argue that anyone who lives here long enough becomes a NW climber... not a WA climber or OR climber...

I think Blake's times are a good average estimate. Almost all the climbing is located off of I-84 as you head east. Rocky is first, Broughton is second (Lewis and Clark State park), Beacon is across the river from Cascade Locks (or at least you drive to Cascade Locks and then cross their and drive back a little). Basically plenty of trad options exist that are close in. Plan on driving on the weekends for alpine rock. Good stuff starts at about 4 hours away... I tend to average about 6 (one way) most weekends. Yeah it sounds like a lot but it is well worth it (at least for me). As many of us head north to climb every weekend... carpool/climbing partner options abound. In the winter Hood is a sweet alpine playground... 1.5 hours close! Illumination Rock (on Mt Hood) has some alpine goodness! Hope this helps... PDX is an awesome town... good public transportation, etc etc... I think you will like it. Congrats on the job offer!

East side of Northern Cascades looks good... avy will depend on where you go.

I'll take I'll come by today! Check your pms.

Nelson 2nd Edition. Route tends to be a later winter route as enough snow/ice needs to be present to climb the first pitch. Haven't been up there but recent temps would lead me to conclude the first pitch is missing and/or partially in. Avy: just because you are on flat terrain doesn't mean you are safe. Assess the conditions as you approach the climb... not on a website. Be safe. Have fun.

As stupid as it looks I gotta say I would look more stupid with a glass eye or permanently tweaked nose... Hey NYC007! Is it one size fits all or do they come in multiple sizes? Does your shop carry them?

Please take pics!

Goat wall.

You mean like leave a rack in there? Don't bother... their is already one there! Hey Kurt or Bug: when you went it their was a boot pack from the parking lot to the dtail cutoff? Did it keep going towards Stuie?

Chuck Norris: more hardcore than MrDoolittle

I think Kurt was the last one in there... When you wanna head in?

almost as tuff as chuck norris's beard

Welcome to PDX! You're off to a good start posting here... You can use this forum to recruit partners for your next trip. A great way to connect with people is to get out... the PRG is one option... come down to the circuit bouldering gym also! You should bump into some climbers there... Another good way to meet folks (check them out before you tie in with them) is come to PDX events and if you can make the drive SEA events also! If you enjoy throwing back s you will fit in just fine... Next up in Portland: Slide Show Couloir pointed out the portland thread... PDX climb thread Basically what that is all about is a bunch of us have a weekly climb night year round at Rocky Butte (NE Portland). In the winter we drytool and the summer we climb rock. Look for weekly updates of when/where we will be in the thread. Hope this helps!

I've been taking all my cut stuff to mountain soles... they take forever to sew things (2 weeks!) but I just have them zig zag it shut and then I coat the threads with seam sealer. It looks tacky but it works. They offered to sew patches over two particularly large holes... I took them up on it (as it was only 10 bucks for 2 patches)... crappy job! The patches were a joke so I just cut them off. Speaking of does anyone know of anyone else in/around PDX that does repair/alterations?

If you can wait Dave I can measure mine for you. I know 50 bucks sounds steep but each of those biners are rated to 3 kN... yeah I know... I know... still spendy. I think Grivel sells those biners separately. As far as harness attachment it will depend on were you are attaching to your tool... on my ergos the attachment point I drilled is located in between the lower and upper handle so the spring thing needs to be a little on the longer side (as I am not clipping into the bottom of the tool which how the spring thing is designed for) so I girth hitch a 12" runner into my belay look and then clip to that. Doing this ensures I never fully hit the maximum stretch on the elastic so I don't have to worry about tools being accelerated back at my head. One last recommendation: put a full strength swivel between your harness and the spring thing... this will allow you to swap hands as many times as you want with out twisting the two tentacles around each other over and over and over. You can get them at a hardwwear store or if you have one of those old rock exotica swivels for the wall hauler that works great! Hope this helps!

So the question is: why isn't more being done to educate and empower them? How about you go into education when you graduate?

More times than Portland

Full house tonight... the details reprinted for the newbies... Where: Drive to Rocky Butte. After 3 speedbumps the road bends right and passes a big tan dome building. Just before the rock wall starts (on your right side) park... look for a silver pickup. Cross the road into the woods and walk c. 100’. You should immediately pass a tunnel on your right that goes underneath the road (good warm up area is you are early). Walk on the main trail that runs along the top of the cliff looking for some TR anchors/listening for the sounds of shitty footwork with crampons on (screech!). If you start to head significantly downhill you have gone too far. Your other option is to call me when you get there: 503.758.5772 For reference we will be near the silver bullet wall. What to bring: - helmet - harness with belay device and daisy chain - ice tools if you have them. If you don’t have a pair let me know and it shouldn’t be a problem. - crampons: if you don’t have them but want to borrow let me know. - boots: leathers or plastic. What ever you bring make sure you can get pons on them. IF YOU DON'T HAVE BOOTS bring rock shoes. - headlamp. - getting dirty clothes... carhartts are great - beverage of choice (thermos of hot coffee is highly recommended and a good way to make friends and send hard shit ) - either tight fitting gloves or a lot of tape and band aids With everything you bring don’t bother with your fancy stuff… its muddy and most likely wet… no reason to trash your goretex taking swingers… insulated Carhartts work great. This especially applies to gloves… you will beat on them so what ever they are make sure they aren’t your new pair. What to do prior to showing up: - pm me and let me know you’re coming so I can determine how many TRs we need - if your crampons have two front bail positions move the bail back so you get as much front point showing as possible (and make sure your pons are sized to the boots you plan on wearing) - remove your adze unless you are brave enough to cam it - if you have multiple picks put in your most beat up pair… they should be negative-clearance picks… don’t sweat the point of the tool being sharp… just make sure the initial set of teeth are somewhat sharp. If you have your choice put in 4mm picks. Bring an extra pick just in case - take off your antibott plates (especially if you have plastic ones like those on the sarkens)… they unfortunately don’t keep the used condoms from balling up on your pons. Finally: Don't leave anything of value in your car. If you bring stuff (laptop, etc) in your car plan on packing it down to the climbing area with you. Call or pm me w/ q's: 503.758.5772

5 pm it is! Should be a full crew! Bring a beater rope if you have one!

untrue. you set yourself up again so...no real harm meant. you do own a boatload of shit though. slave to the modem, carry on.... Oh I knew it wasn't... it's just from time to time Peter needs a dose of his own medicine... that's all. I will be the first to admit half the time my posts don't come out the way I intend them to be and as a result invite a hail of shit but... since when does listing what gear I own merit another roast session? Guess I'll have to add that to my list of "things not to post or say on cc.com". And for what it is worth I share my quiver with lcm (hence so many pairs of crampons) and the pair of aztars have slowly become community property of PDX drytool night. Yeah I still use them from time to time but for the most part I keep them for individuals who don't have tools but are interested in getting out. So much for trying to be a nice guy and sharing... Cheers

Blake? Can you? I honestly expect being there closer to 3:30 but with my luck if I say I will something will go awry in cube land.

Is Fern going to make that her avatar pic?

Only because you tilted all your photos You need to register another avatar that is super nice and helpful to make up for your current two