John Frieh

Best TR ever? http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/174676/an//page//vc/1

Move to Idaho forum: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB22&Number=371790 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB22&Number=399667 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB17&Number=495426 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB22&Number=399647 Already in correct forum but need to be added to TR index: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/596775/an/0/page/0#596775 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/595186/an/0/page/0#595186 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/596775/an/0/page/0#596775 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/600778/an/0/page/0#600778

Does anybody have an electronic copy of the topo for this route?

I heard that one of Jens's regular partners flunked outta da Mounties. The Mounties regularly have a graduation rate of something like 1/2 to 2/3. And they do kick out people who have been warned about fitness, safety, etc., and don't get better. He didn't flunk out. Tell it as it is. The fact that they did had issue with him yet he continues to complete climbs at a level very few other mounties currently do says a lot about their conclusions.

well said that's all i got... less spraying more climbing!

John, What made the Lightning strikes "unpreventable?" In other words, were the people near a summit in the afternoon, on an exposed ridgeline, in their tents in a meadow....to me, some of these examples might be more "preventable" than others. True? Do you know details you could share? I don't... sorry...

Looking at this thread I think what it comes down to here is not the organization a person learned or didn't learn from but instead the individual... it just so turns out the mounties are the most accessible due to price and as a result attact a lot of people that frankly shouldn't be in the backcountry. And they are too nice to not turn anyone away... Hence why the mounties have produced some great climbers... as well as some darwin nominations... It's an individual thing... not an organization thing...

I disagree. You can't cram a year's worth of learning into a weekend or even a multi-day or even 2-week course. Now, if you learn on your own first, and then take one of those course offered by AAI, for example, as a way to fill in gaps and progress, I'd say a 6 or 7 day course would fulfill the type of instruction that we are talking about much better than a club. But who can afford that anyways? We need a silver spoon gramelin Yes you can cram material. Just look at WFR courses. But I partially agree with you... some initial exposure before a course will greatly improve mastery... which I believe is the case for almost all people as they make sure to personally confirm they truly like it before shelling out that much.

Selkirk: I don't like your poll (unless I am doing it wrong) as you can only vote for one thing... for a lot of us (at least me) almost all of those apply...

exactly... hence the price difference Food for thought: NOLS has had 6 deaths since it founding... of those drowning was the only "preventable" death... the others were from lightening strikes. No climbing deaths. EDIT: deaths during a course. NOLS graduates and/or instructors have died on non course activities.

which course?

I haven't taken a trip with RMI so I wouldn't know. I have bumped into RMI on the hill and found their guides to be skilled and personable. But better instruction includes a better curriculum. Do RMI clients learn, for instance, crevasse rescue? yes but I would say these two aren't worth comparing... that is RMI offers a number of services... depending on what you are shopping for (a summit or a snow travel class) will dictate what and to what depth you learn it god i am going to regret this but a much much better comparison would be comparing NOLS or Outward Bound versus Mounties... Both are for instruction... one is a lot lot more expensive.

Does he ever? RMI, in addition to being miniscule as compared to the mounties, is also quite a bit more expensive, making it out of reach of a lot of beginning climbers, particularly very young climbers. It seems to me RMI's goal is to make money as a business first, and teach you about climbing second. Clubs are the other way around. Many people hire RMI to climb Rainier, with no interest to learn how to climb or doing climbing beyond that one trip up the mountain. For around $1000 you get only one day of instruction (mostly self-arrest practice), and a hand-holding up the mountain with a bit of security knowing you are with experienced folks and a backup system in the event of an accident or emergency. Apples and oranges. RMI is a business. Mounties are a club. If you really wanted what you described yes you would pay more for it but you would better instruction from RMI. You get what you pay for. RMI guides have many many more days out than Mounties per year.

Yes You can get a personal tour this weekend... PM or email if interested

Don't judge a by its label stoke

stoke

stoke

Trout is where the party is at this weekend

So what is the best way to get old TRs into the TR index or (in my case) TRs that are from Idaho and Montana that need to be moved? Send a PM with links? Bump them? Post links here? What if we find old relevant threads that should be moved to the Idaho or Montana threads? Bump them up?

Be able to filter by username and/or route. Make it more obvious that multiple pages exist (I have talked to a few lurkers that didn't realize more than one page is commonly returned). Great resource! Thanks timm@y!

Good work youth Hopefully as soon as Nov 3rd

The contents page in alpinist 14 might also be worth a look

Go to the expert: http://www.alaskanalpineclub.org/IceWall/IceWall.html

That is a part of why the grivel spring thing costs so much... though they use keychain sized biners the biners are rated to 3 kNs so that in situations like what you just described you don't have to worry about destroying a biner and loosing your tool (which sucks). A swivel on any attachment system is key though... But yeah... you can make them for a lot cheaper like a lot of you have but for me the spring thing was worth it.