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Everything posted by Blake
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I was changing in the outhouse on the way back from Mt. aspiring and suddenly heard all this pounding and screaching. I thought my buddy was messing with me, but it was those stupid keas. I'm heading over Arthur's pass on Friday after a stopover at Castle Hill. I'll tell you all how Kea tastes when i get back....
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Did you clip the trango stopper I got stuck near the top of pitch two? been there about a year now, and pretty welded-in as of February. I've taken 2 girls on this exact same route, but was unable to convince my girlfriend to skip class and climb it. Contrary to my suggestions she sometimes studies while at school. They both enjoyed it though, defintely a great afternoon out. Next time add on pitch 3 - Springboard variation. Best way down is to rap once to the big tree, then once to the base. You need a 60m rope.
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Bellevue climbers need stiff gear loops on their harnesses.. where else can you stash your Grande Caramel Latte when bouldering?
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what's wrong with spray???? threads are becoming LESS offensive and MORE thought-provoking by page 3?
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So how can the b-ham climbing scene be improved if a new gym/shop aint the answer? is it just not possible without a b-ham specific crag? Tuesday-night spray fests at Banditos? I guess I can keep giving out WWU ID cards for whoever wants free access to the fitness center and campus climbing gym.
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If you are going to be dropping stuff, don't do alpine/multipitch climbs. Seriously, dropping a boot, shoe, ice tool, helmet, even waterbottle (well almost anything you have) can spell disaster. Don't drop the rack either. When handing something to your team-mate, make sure they have it firmly before you let go.
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Mike, you took all of last summer off work/school/responsibilites to play, I don't think you can legitimately complain about not being able to do that once again. Too bad about the crap weather on your spring break!
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These would all be good climbs for someone who knows how to lead on gear, but hasn't done it much, hasn't climbed much in the alpine, isn't into big commitment, or doesn't want steep snow or rock harder than 5.6... Rock: Beckey route on Lib. Bell South Arete of S. Early Winter Spire W. Ridge of North Twin R&D route - Icicle Buttress in Leavenworth Snow: SW Couloir of S. Early Winter Spire Mt. Ruth Snow and Rock sections: Sahale via Sahale Glacier get a copy of the red and green editions of the Cascade Alpine Guide and browse through to find more stuff that fits your current skills. read this: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/504056/an/0/page/21#504056
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If you are only ever intersted in sport climbing, get 10 or 12 of the cheapest quickdraws you can find and you'll be set. If you think you might get into crack/trad climbing or alpine stuff, just get a bunch (24?) of light wiregate carabiners, and 8 or 10 24" sewn runners, plus a couple 48" runers. These lengths can all be tripled up on sport routes where you don't need a long runner connecting bolt to the rope. If you want stiffly sewn sport draws, you can just buy the nylon webbing cheaply and swap your wiregate carabiners into them for days when you're bolt clipping, and then use your longer more versatile runners on other climbs. keynnosed quckdraws for $10, wiregate quickdraws for $12 also check out: www.gearexpress.com
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I actually started using Dru's method and it seems best to me. Gear on the harness, draws/runners on a shoulder sling. I usually put cams small->Big on my gear loops, with a set of nuts in front. For multipitch stuff where you are flipping leads and need to move fast, having a gear sling is better for belay changeovers though.
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Neutrinos aren't very good biners! Omega Pacific Dovals are bigger, same weight, less money, more usefull shape. Trango Lightweight Wiregates are cheaper, larger, and equal weight. Trango superflies are bigger, 6 grams less, and equal $$ CAMP nano-wires are the same size, and 6 grams less, and less $$ WC heliums are bigger, keylocking, 3 grams less, but more $$ DMM Shield is bigger, keylocking, 4 grams less, but more $$ DMM Spectre is bigger, fancy colors, 3 grams less, but more $$$ Neutrino's aren't especially good compared to the above models, and English made carabiners are fancy, but costly. Considering weight, price, and size, there is always a better biner than a neutrino, for any use. Plus BD gear is so popular, buck the trend. P.S. Scot'teryx was recently selling superfly wiregates for under $6. give him a PM or email. http://www.questalb.com/ see here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...amp;Search=true
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first ski descent [TR] Dragontail - TC ski descent 4/4/2006
Blake replied to TeleRoss's topic in Alpine Lakes
I think Ross, Sky, the Hummels et al are just super good, super motivated, have the right free time, and enjoy Scurlock's motivators.- 57 replies
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weather was good for some whitewater kayaking east of Christchurch this weekend, but missed Castle Hill on the drive home.
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thanks CatBirdSeat!
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Paisano Pinnacle - Burgundy spire link up! 12ish pitches, 5.7-5.9 range, if I remember correctly.
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Here's the Martial Arts news of the century Cars to be protected from birds by ninjas WELLINGTON, New Zealand - Organizers of a vintage car rally reportedly have hired karate experts to protect the vehicles from marauding native parrots. About 40 members of a local karate club have been enlisted to protect the 140 classic cars due to visit an alpine village near Mt. Cook on New Zealand's South Island on Sunday, the New Zealand Press Association reported Friday. The karate experts will protect the cars from Keas, native parrots that have been known to be destructive in their search for shiny items, the news agency said. Denis Callesen, manager of the nearby Hermitage Hotel, said bird lovers need not be concerned the karate experts would use martial arts moves on the parrots, which are a protected species. Their job would simply be to scare the birds away, he said. Local wildlife ranger Ray Bellringer said the karate experts were unlikely to deter the Keas. "They will fly around and laugh," he said. The best method to prevent Keas from damaging vehicles was to squirt them with water pistols, he said.
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I thought air guitar was .10a
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I've been putting some in the "Cali and everywhere else" forum practically every weekend Joseph. It goes quite well!
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I lead about 20!
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E, take her to the copper Lantern in downtown Anacortes. good food!
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Anyone have a pic of the defectively riveted ones? I'm climbing on one now with a batch # 0605, but postage from NZ would be a big pain.
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Maybe it sucks because the climbers argue online over who got fired by whom and why, when they could be doing something usefull or fun. P.S. you both have WWU ID cards I gave you to go use the fitness center and climbing gym...