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Blake

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Everything posted by Blake

  1. Wayne, its just not running now due to a Domke Fire. If you are not allowed to start on the Stehekin or Holden roads, there are a LOT more of these peaks.
  2. Bonanza, seeing as how there is currently no public bus to Holden. I'd wager Storm King should be on Wayne's list.
  3. there's a fixed one with a new runner (someone tied some cord)
  4. Trip: North Cascades Ramble - Tempestuous Traverse Date: 8/22/2007 Trip Report: Dan (Dannible) and I did a trip through part of the National Park recently which was meant to be the starting leg of a much longer link-up, but we basically got stormed off and had a wet hitch-hike to Mt. Vernon. There were some pretty views anyways, we'll have to get after it again some year when summer actually remembers to make an appearance. Dan on day 2: Nice Views on hiking section: Some nice creek valley: Finally getting some climbing in: Don't harass the wildlife: Scamperin' around: Weather Moving In: This means it's time to go home: Thanks MythosGrl for the drop off and pizza! Gear Notes: Any advice on getting out of a $75 camping permit ticket?
  5. Dean Potter wouldn't even survive some of the approaches. The type of athlete who could come closest would be an elite trail runner capable of soloing loose rock up to ~5.8
  6. I must have memory problems cause I posted on that old thread too.
  7. Everyone who spends time in the North Cascades knows that it includes some of the most remote terrain in the US... I was recently talking with some friends about peaks that can't be climbed in a day from your car, and we came up with quite a few suggestions on our own. Does anyone know of anyone who has climbed, or even attempted, peaks like Storm-King, Dome, Agnes, or Fury in day? Are there any other parts of the country (outside AK) where so many mountains are mandatory multi-day trips?
  8. Bump... anyone been out to the area since this TR?
  9. 70 is fine, no-go with a 60
  10. Way to get on something out of the ordinary. Sounds like a good day.
  11. Earlier that day, Matt Maddaloni and a friend climbed University Wall, Northern Lights, Freeway, and Angel's Crest in a day!
  12. It's like the end of your long-planned trip in the mtns, and a wet hitch-hike home.
  13. To offer another view, I thought the approach wasn't very bad at all... just do it early when it is shady and cool or still dark. I think a Car shuttle would be so much more work! South-side in a day is the way to go.. and \\the best and hardest pitch on the ridge was the sustained fingercrack/corner thingy on p2 or p3 of the lower ridge. There's a stuck #4 Camalot on the Gendarme pitch, so you can get by with a 3.5 friend and then clip the fixed piece. Nice job climbing through the snow... what happened to August?
  14. How would that Steep snow section be if someone were to do it in late season or with a light ice axe?
  15. EMAIL HIM not PMs
  16. someone should stack 4' of rocks on the unclimbed Mox peak summit, so that it would become one of the top 100 and all subsequent peak baggers would have to do it.
  17. Sounds like a few folks might be up this weekend... how about a beer at the Brewery or something else along those lines.
  18. Big-ups to yourself, David. that be some bling-blinging. Respek...
  19. So that's why the "10b" start completely kicked our ass! yeah that start of P1 is hard but would you consider it harder than P4? P4 felt like 11a to me and martins, so we graded it 10c. blake said 10d and you said 10c. who knows? personally, i prefer the sandbag over the softy. I think .10b for the first pitch because I was able to onsight it and I was pretty run-down at that point in our trip. However... if that crux is .10c, then the first pitch is 5.8
  20. No snow at all on route now. #4 Camalot is still fixed in the OW section. P3 layback corner is the crux, but the jams arrive before too long. C-2-C from Cle Elum makes for a day with about 8,500' Elevation gain. Did the "5.9 pitch above the gendarme" disappear? We didn't find it.
  21. Nice Ty and Sol... What's so bad about the first 5 pitches? How's the pro overall?
  22. yeah, Golden ramp is about 4 minutes to the right of our route... just walk along the base. We didn't do it so I can't comment, but you could climb up a couple routes to the top in a day cause it's more of an alpine "crag" than a mountain. It is a prominent peak with a summit and cairn.. but no register which was disappointing. I was intrigued to see who had been up there!
  23. Trip: The Snout's Deviated Septum - Cutthroat Lake Basin at Washington Pass- Date: 8/2/2007 Trip Report: On Thursday I talked Trogdor_the_Burninator (Jason) into going for a little climbing adventure up at Washington Pass. We ended up at the base of a rad-looking castle of dark granite that is called "the Snout" in the Cascade Alpine Guide, and has one route on it, the Golden Ramp route. We spied some cool looking features from the ground and climbed a route a couple hundred yards to the East of the Golden Ramp. Jason insisted on continuing the nasal theme of the area, hence the strange route name. Not very many pictures... P1 was 75m, mostly easy... maybe up to 5.7ish to the base of the corner. p2 was short up the obvious corner to the cool saddle-shaped belay tree 5.9+ p3 was short but sustained 5.10 climbing with balancey face moves out left from the tree, then up good cracks to the mantle atop the headwall. Jason had a good lead on this pitch and it was the best of the route. You might want to protect the crux moves off the belay by clipping the leader into a cam high above the belay for a few moves. p4 was ~75m and again basically 5.fun We unroped a bit short of the top and soloed to the summit. We left rap slings in place skier's left of the big corner. Make sure to TR the awesome splitter cracks on the way down (felt like Rebel Yell), or just bring along some big cams and lead them on the way up. If someone cleaned up the finger crack from the base, and linked it through the fist-O/W splitter up high, it'd make a great route. Might need a couple pins though down low. There's also a free belay device and locking 'biner somewhere around the base, and maybe a green TCU as well. Approach Notes: 45 minutes South of the Cutthroat Lake TH.
  24. What's the route?
  25. Might be game Sunday Brandon...
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