boatskiclimbsail

As far as metal files go, there is usually a lot of confusion, especially it seems around climbers, who are typically engineer-types or hippie-types. The engineers are usually too proud to ask for help (because they know it all anyway) and the hippies are too self-reliant. Flat metal files come in three categories, Bastard, Second-cut, and Smooth. Translated into english, these grades are close to coarse, medium and fine. "Mill" vs "Double cut"/"Flat" refers to the alignment of the teeth of the file. Mill files have one set of teeth, Double cut files have two sets of teeth, set apart at 60º or so. The reason for using a mill bastard file is because most ice climbing picks are heat treated steel, and the objective is remove metal as quickly as possible by hand and still achieve a relatively smooth finish. If one were to use a smooth file on a pick it would take you all week to ever get anywhere. The reason you use a 'straight' file as opposed to a 'round' file on the top and for shaping the taper of the teeth and the pick is pretty obvious, it's so you don't put pits or strange depressions in the shape. For shaping the teeth, you need to use a round file because a straight file would produce the exact opposite: sharp, flat spots in an area that is supposed to be contoured. As mentioned above, it is in fact ok to use electric tools to shape picks or crampon points, as long as the metal doesn't get above it's tempering point. Realistically, using 4130 you're not really in danger of this until the metal starts to change to a straw color at about 400ºF, but keeping sharp metal objects cool enough to touch is always a good rule to follow. The fact is, you really don't need to use power tools to sharpen picks/crampons. It takes surprisingly little time to do by hand. As far as technique goes, I'd reccomend using a big 6-8" file when you're at home to do the initial shaping and keeping a 3-4" straight file with you in case you snap a point in the field. They really don't weigh that much. No matter where you are, I'd reccomend a needle file set to get the exact shape you want for the very tip of the pick and to contour the teeth the way you want them. Even a small set will give you a plethora of options on the round surfaces. Remember that mill files really only cut well in one direction. You're not using sandpaper, these are files. A gross analogy is that they are sawblades with a very wide kerf. The teeth really bite in one direction but they glance over and dull themselves if you load them in the other direction. If you are unaware of the correct direction, experiment until you can feel the difference. It'll save you lots of time and you'll end up with a much better finish and have a lot more control getting there.

word.

I agree, tools and crampons should fit and be comfortable no matter what your skill level. The good old favorite for axes is the BD Black Prophet. They made a boatload of these in the 90s and they're everywhere for cheap and nearly indestructable. Other than that, give your friends gear a try, demo some tools, and find what you like. Good tools cost money, so don't go into it with cost as an objective. When you find the perfect set of tools you won't mind saving for them. Beginner crampons should fit securely and be durable. You'll figure out what you like and don't like about them and then buy a pair you really like. I know it should be obvious, but make sure your boots fit well also. It'll make a world of difference. Good luck!

Marmot Precip. There are others like it made from the new generation of "lightweight" gore-tex. It will keep you dry in snow and all rain conditions except a noreaster deluge. I've tried several (got 2 stolen!) and I like Marmot's the best. They have a few different styles. You can find them for $70-80 new if you look around.

The nut and screw used to be annoying due to the 1/4" of slop where the nut contacts the sliver of c-channel but at least it worked when you adjusted it. I don't like where they are going with this shim thing. I second the 'hurrah' for the S12 thumbscrew. Besides that, it's yellow!

In lieu of mountaineering boots, when we ran out we would outfit students with tele boots and sabretooths. They are pretty secure, just make sure the height of the rear bale is correct or they can peel off. Front points are about 1/2" shorter, even with the bale in the close notch.

You can get the regular BPs for $40-50 apiece all over the place. They made tons of them and people are starting to buy the new stuff. Definitely not worth $75 for one...

Those have aluminum/rubber shafts.

You can strap them on the outside of your pack if it has straps in the appropriate place (points out!) or get some of those nifty little rubber point guard trees. I've never really liked them myself. I still pack my crampons in a bag with a plastic sheet in the bottom if I'm just day-climbing on vertical stuff. I leave it home if I'm going to be walking on them most of the day anyway.

Didn't know this included aid/ice. Aid (add to trad): Another set of Smileys 1-13 HB Brass offsets 1-6 RPs 1-4 Frost nuts (the long ones) BD Hex Nuts 1-4 BD Hexes on 5.5 #10, 11 Metolius TCUs 1-4 Metolius FCUs 2,3 WC Forged .5-2.5 WC Tech 6 ("The panty cam") Big bro #2 Barrel of monkeys er, I mean hooks Ice: 3 BD Stubbys with BSCS's custom handles 5 BD 17s 3 BD 22s 3 CAMP POS 17s Various old poundins and Ti crap Two of those nasty looking hooks (am I the only one who loves to use these?) Ancient long/fatty pins

"Fixed" pins are rarely fixed. Just because they've been there for 10 years doesn't mean they'll be any more useful than a pad on the ground. They shouldn't be considered reliable pro. Runouts are part of trad, and I have to agree with fern here...

Smileys nuts 4-13 HB offsets 7-11 BD hexes slung on 5.5 4-9 Pink & Red Tricams Ballnutz 1-4 First 5 aliens Trango monocams 1-5 WC forged 3-4

I disagree with reccomending certain models of shoes. In my opinion (which is mine) shoes shoult fit YOUR feet. If you buy ski boots, mtn boots, bike shoes, etc. etc. it's the same game, the first priority is to find which shoes fit YOU and then pick from the available pool of fitting shoes. That being said, most shoes will stretch to conform to your feet a certain amount. I agree that there is going to be no performance difference between a board lasted tank and a bananna peel sport shoe when you are starting out. I would get the cheapest thing you can that fits your foot.

I've used a wren soloist (the red aluminum one) for solo toproping, you pull rope 'out' instead of feeding rope 'in'. Check your manual. ... Check their manual: http://www.wrenindustries.com/soloistmanual.pdf

My point is, it's not worth my time or my hassle to deal with some sort of complicated payment scheme. Other than the two-week clearing time, personal checks are about as complicated as I'm willing to go to sell something. Paypal is a separate entity, you can pay anyone with an email address. Bidpay is Ebay's baby but I believe you can pay for non-auction related things with that too.

This is why I like to deal in cash. I trust paypal too, but there really is nothing more sure than closing a deal with a wad of bills in your hand.

Not sure what rei calls 'basic', but here are a few things I rarely find in FA kits that shoul dbe there. Not that pain killers are a 'neccesary' part of a first aid kit, but some people are allergic or opposed to some of them. Throw in some Tylenol or something as well. The kodine over the counter stuff works miricles but you need ot be careful who you give it to. Benedryl is a must for any kind of allergic reaction. If you are certified to administer them, epinephrine and a sucher kit really should be standard items, especially for climbing. A big (50-100cc) syringe has many uses. Glutose is usually in those already. Does it have a CPR face shield and latex gloves?

7000 rpms!! Geez what kind of mill do you have? I did the same thing once building a tubular car frame once. We had the vice locked down but the rotary base the vice to which the vice was mounted was loose. We ended up cutting a convex contour in the end of the tube (as the vice rotated with each spin of the cutter) instead of the concave shape of the tube to which it was to be welded. Got quite a laugh out of it.

Fern's house is an excellent choice. Sometimes you just won't notice fundamental problems, best to let someone else deal with them Should she become unavailible, I volunteer to take good care of your rope as well. I won't use it either. The typical convention is to keep it in a rope bag, to keep the dirt and dust off of it. The only major no-nos of storing your rope are direct UV and acid of any kind. Accident analysis of one rope after it snapped revealed it had been stored near a set of jumper cables that had acid corrosion on them. Nasty stuff, man, and the fumes are as bad as the liquid so watch it in the car.

I agree that your body is an excellent shock absorber, but if they fall and you are belaying them through the anchor, it still sees the weight of both people weather you are on the same side or on either side of a rope. Besides, if your partner yanks you off and you are both hanging on an anchor that has just bee shockloaded, is it still sketchy?

Careful using paddling gloves (neoprene, sealskinz) on ice; they will freeze solid and be nearly impossible to take off and even harder to put back on. Put them in your sleeping bag at night with your boots. We learned this the hard way on boating trips. There really is nothing like 'thawing out' a frozen solid wetsuit in 35 degree water - and then stipping down and putting it on in 20 degree weather 'to keep warm'.

You can indeed; people do it all the time up on Hood. I wouldn't call it a "climbing tool", and I certainly wouldn't be jumping crevasses with it. Pair it up with a snowboard though and you can sail on a glacier all day. A 10m wing (like this one) in a 15mph wind will yank you 50 feet in the air if you're not careful. In terms of feasibility, if you were a pro kiteboarder, of which there are a few dozen in the area, you could probably get up some easy mountains with it but it would take a hell of a lot of skill and suck pretty badly if you blew a bladder, broke a line or tore a wing. Sold it this weekend in Hood River. There is always a market for used stuff though, as the sport is only 4 years old at this point and each generation of gear is way different than the last year's. I've got a few more wings I might be letting go soon.

There should be some pics up on the board from a few months ago, if I get a minute I'll look for them. This came up before

Indeed they can. Though the woodpecker and it's newer counterpart (links below) are formidable tools, there is a reason they are being sold for so cheap. Just like a shrike is not a Cobra and a Quazar is not a Quark, nay is a Montagne a Tiburon. Should I also post that you can get Black Prophets for less then $50 apiece if you just look around? I've seen three pairs of those sold on this board for far more than I am asking for these Tiburons, which perform at a level far above the original BPs. I'm offering a quality tool that is suitable for a wide range of applications for a price I think is fair. Feel free to make me an offer if you feel the price is too high. These tools sell for $190 apiece, and I have not seen them on closeout yet. They have been to 3 different contries and climbed WI6 and M5. Do that with a woodpecker or a tube pick... Woodpecker Replica

Any of the classic .10s will satisfy your craving for "5.12" climbing. Some I don't think were mentioned (with my own stars): V-3, 5.8 ** Three pines, dangler variation 5.8 (super picture spot) Birdland, 5.9 White Pillar, 5.8 *** CCK Direct, 5.8(+?) Doubleissima, 5.8 Something interesting, 5.8 ** Modern Times, 5.9 **** Fat City, 5.10 Directississima, 5.10 For the girlfriend: Baby - 5.5 Easy O - 5.2 Disneyland - 5.6 (2nd (3rd) pitch spectacular) Hawk - 5.5 Souther Pillar - 5.2 Three pines - 5.3