Hal_Burton

Drove up to check the road Sunday nite on the way back from Smit. Road's clear up to the last left fork, from there it looked solidly covered. Its like 2+ miles further to the TH, I think.

They gone!

I like the "low-impact" dudes who try to be conscientious by driving their sleds thru the skiers' lot ssssllllllooooowwwwwlllyyyyy. Sure they're slow, but they're just as FN noisy for a lot FN longer! Thanks guys.

I think the arguement is that the upper lot lets the big trailers pull all the way around the circle and not have to back up. It also gives them more room for all their toys. But if you think the rangers are any more excited about this than us, not so. We had a nice guy bitching, safely down in the skiers' lot, about how much space those idiots can take take up on either side of their superjumbo trailers just to claim their space. So, the lot was full and he had to redirect the sno-mo's off to a lot even further away. He also thanked us for not parking in the upper lot after cirlcing around once to scope the scene. Larry's nice brother-in-law I guess.

I haven't gotten turns in there personally, but here's a photo a bud took a few weeks ago. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=3627&password=&sort=1&cat=509 I went up today to suss the drive. It can be complicated. Thought I was heading out via Yacoult and came out at the Larch Mtn Correctional Facility and then back to Camas Slightly better roads that way than from Washougal River, thanks to the prison-industrial-complex. Was raining heavily at the parking, what you could see of the trail was bare. Larch Mtn to the west had patchy snow cover, wouldn't be fun. Need a low snow level to shake it back into shape. When that happens, it'd make a great Dawn Patrol run. Anyone up for sneaking in late to work?

I must admit I did have book knowledge for most of the route, so I would only claim a beta-flash. I'd say its pretty hard a vue, especially past the third clip. Anyone know of a recorded onsite of this beast?

Climb: Hood-Reid HW Date of Climb: 2/11/2004 Trip Report: Nice conditions on the Reid. Varied between step kicking in the soft to front pointing on the hard. Probably more soft than hard right now. Wandered alot, played on some rime and did a great top out right between 14 and 14a in the book. One steep step to gain a rime-mushroomed ridge with plenty of exposure. Looking forward to reports from the tea party on Yokum. Anyone want to share? Gear Notes: Took rope, didn't use it. Approach Notes: Palmer and environs can be thin crust over 6-10

Tex sez So thats what they were looking at! I was always wondering what was on they're mind. I'll be more carefull there in the future. Thanks for the tip!! HB

I'd second lance's observation of the more rope out the better. I used to tie into pieces more frequently, but later I came to realise that you're protecting that last piece by giving it more rope to absorb the fall, making it less likely that it, or subsequent pieces below it, will rip. I know the mind (or is it the sphincter talking?) sez "I feel really secure tied short to this RP", but a minor fall could turn long when that piece goes. To tie in often also makes it a pain when cleaning on jugs. A lot more work when climbing and cleaning. As if you need any more work when solo roped climbing. I've used a clove a bunch. Taken a couple 20-25 footers on them. When using the clove I use two biners. This is redundant, and it makes the knot easier to feed. I've never used any back up besides tying into the end of the rope. I've moved onto a Solo-Aid, which is only slightly easier to feed. An early self belay technique was a belay plate with a prussik on the brake strand. Not sure how long that lasted or if anyone bit it because of it, but it's failing was that the prussick would melt and down you go.

John Bouchard FA?

In case you missed it in theaters, its now in the video stores. "Horror hits the slopes in this sexy slasher film about a gang of snowboarders on a one-way chair lift to terror! Featuring hot young stars, killer suspense and snowboarding sequences to die for, Shredder is an ice-cold, rip-roaring scare-fest that takes terror to a whole new altitude! When seven hot-blooded coeds break into an abandoned ski lodge, the stage is set for a wild weekend of hot partying and heavy powder. But when the bodies start turning up, they begin to suspect they are not alone. Stalked by a psychotic skier, the gang soon discovers that on the slopes, no one can hear you scream!"

J- Sent you a PM. HB

PDX gets it February 6 - 12 at Cinema 21.

Those look sweet D_P. I'm still shopping, so if anyone wants to take Dave up on these, go for it.

I'm looking for some used tele bindings. Looking for something in good shape, cables and not too expensive. If you've upgraded and need to unload your old bindings, PM me.

Well, lessee here... Up around the Timberline trail near Paradise the black flys are numerous but don't seem to biting, just really entering into any exposed orfices. Down around Govy, just a few mozzies in the evening. (Beatcha to it Iain!)

Iain laughed when I scooped a bunch to bring home and keep as pets in my freezer! Or at least I considered it, couldn't think of what to feed the buggers, so I left 'em. The glaciers around Eldorado were covered in them. It was the first time I realized what I was looking at. I'll see what I can do next time I'm out. What do they eat anyway?

I got mine last summer at the 'couv store. I think they were closin them out at the time. Typical, something kicks ass so better stop making/selling it...

I've scoped that thing while on a hike couple years back. Looked like pro would be difficult, and thus, i'm imagining, the reason for waynes mixed route. Didn't look like it had open cracks like Lamberson, but it does sport some impressive sweeping overhangs if I remember correctly. Always meant to head back there to try some aid on it and check things out. Being as its right off of one of Hood's most popular hikes AND in a wilderness area, I don't think it would be a place for bolted lines of chalk caked holds. Get off the beaten path for that.

I backed off Tatanka in RedRocks after taking a couple healthy whips and realizing I didn't have the efficiency or skillz to solo aid quick enough. Went back few years later to tick it off. Long, half-day 4th class approach to shuttle shite into the canyon; and you get to do that twice. Sweet overhanging 1200 ft wall. Couldn't believe I had had the sack to attempt it before. Spent 3 days on it and topped out with no problems. Total isolation apart from the glow of Vegas No current nemisi, need to set my sights higher and fail more.

Bill, I thank you again for placing those anchors at RB. I appreciate the convience aspect, but it isn't the only reason I'll use them as long as they're there. As RB is approach from above, bolts near or over edge make for anchors less likely to get fukt with once you have them set up and you're down over the edge. I spend alot of time out there solo TRing and its always worrisome to have my rope running across the trail to a tree and not know who is walking around up there. Solid anchors also attract more climbers. Some might begrudge this point, but at a place like RB it keeps the climbs cleaner and lets us watch out for each other. We've all had our run ins with the less respectful vistors out there, and I think the more climbers we attract, the less attractive it will be for those sorts. New anchors promote forgoten classics. I cleaned Tiger Pause a little last year. Yesterday I was inspired to give it the full scrubbing. I really hope people rediscover this gem. Perfect steep 5.9 hand crack finish. 90% clean now. Great anchors to boot. I do think that you are right in that our energy should first go to cleaning up garbage, cleaning off old or new routes (I started reclaiming Temporary Arete from the ivy) and making it a better place to climb. Adding a little safety and convenience wouldn't hurt tho.

Is that a glacier in your pocket or are you just happy to see me? Worse yet, is that a gopher in your pocket?

The dude made his way thru the impass around 4pm, had a report of him at the spot where the trail from the Chilliwack hits the top of Easy Ridge ~6pm. Think he said he left at 1am. I'd say he had a pretty good shot at it. Death march, but do-able.

The main tweakers in question are hitting the bolts with a hacksaw or sawzall and trimming the bolt flush with the rock. I wish they would get rid of the "chain-link-on-a-bolt" type anchors. Instead they've removed the anchors from such standards as Blueberry Jam, White Rabbit and Bird of Paradise, leaving ugly saw marks across the now "purified" rock. I'd fear glue-ins getting sawed off in the same manner. The Metolius rap hanger on a big-ass button head looks like its holding its own on Bird of Paradise. Thanks to whoever laid some shiney metal at the top of Phylynx and Tiger's Pause. Much appreciated. Enjoying them while I can...