(this is a cross-post, you may see this on multiple sites)
I was looking into the Avalanche courses offered by Mountain Savvy. The courses are offered by Glenn Kesller a former Mt. Hood Climbing ranger. Part of the courses are done on Mt. Hood (under the proper permits). Mountain Savvy's Website is: http://mountainsavvy.com/
While researching Mountain Savvy I discovered several pages from the Oregon Mountaineering Association (OMA) which assert, inter alia, while Kessler was a Climbing Ranger to eliminate competition for his future course he "unfairly" prosecuted the OMA for offering classes on USFS property without a permit
After reading OMA's material, particularly the details here http://www.i-world.net/oma/news/usfs-1.html, I feel Kessler was simply doing his job. OMA should be griping at USFS regulations not Kessler. OMA's statements in no way deter me from enrolling in a Mountain Savvy course.
Does anyone have any input on these events or Mountain Savvy's courses?
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From http://www.i-world.net/oma/guides/mountainsavvy.html (note if you're interested in this story you may want to visit the webpage as it links to several other pages):
Oregon Guides and Guide Services
Mountain Savvy and Glenn Kessler
A tale of how government employees ignore ethics regulations, pursue conflicting interests, and abuse their government positions
In the winter of 2000-2001 a new guiding service began offering avalanche courses on Mt Hood. It is called Mountain Savvy and is run by Glenn Kessler.
We strongly recommend avoiding courses through or with Mountain Savvy, Glen Kessler, and Doug Ironside. This is based on ethical and conflict-of-interest concerns, we are not claiming to have evaluated their technical or teaching skills in any way. The conflict of interest and ethical concerns are as follows ...
Glen paved the way for this during his reign as a Forest Service ranger on Mt Hood, during which he eliminated competition and made friends with permit holders, the bureaucrats who issue permits, and fellow Forest Service employees who hold the permits currently unavailable to anyone in the private sector. In at least one case where entirely unfounded actions were initiated against a volunteer leader Doug Ironside played a key role. This is not an empty accusation but a statement of fact - Dougs role came to light from documents obtained from the US Attorneys office. [Details]
We do not know the full extent of the political impacts of Mr. Kesslers actions, but the projects which were undermined during the year prior to the founding of Mountain Savvy while Glen was with the USFS include:
The Oregon Mountaineering Association classes held a few times a year
The implementation (at the request of the Mazamas) of spring climbing season avalanche information
At least one other avalanche and winter safety program which happened to disappear that year
These were all small initiatives in the non-profit sector with the goal of improving mountain safety through education and awareness. They no longer exist, are limited in scope, or failed to get off the ground because Glen Kessler used his government position to effectively shut them down on Mt Hood. It is now clear that this was a matter of paving the way for his own business.
We have attempted to look up Doug and Glenn in the membership list for the American Alpine Club and the Alpine Club of Canada. Neither appear to be members of either organization. There is no indication that either is a member of the American Mountain Guides Association, nor that Mountain Savvy is accredited by the AMGA. So neither individual appears to have an affiliation with any of the major climbing or guiding organizations in the US or Canada.
For a forest service employee to obtain a permit from the agency to run a private business is clearly a conflict of interest and runs counter to government ethics guidelines. Especially when such permits are not based on objective criteria and are routinely denied to individuals outside the government.
In our opinion the actions of these two individuals, Doug Ironside and Glen Kessler, indicate a level of insecurity which leaves them feeling very threatened by almost anyone. Even clubs and associations. Instead of pursuing excellence themselves they are eliminating competition through the abuse of a government position. We urge you to consider this insecurity and lack of self-confidence as well as the negative impacts of their actions over the past few years. Is this the kind of operation you really want to do business with or learn safety critical skills from?
It should also be noted that the curriculum standards are being poorly represented. Mr. Kessler is using Canadian Avalanche Association materials, which are based on a 2 day course or 16 hours. He is claiming to offer an American Level 1 certificate at the same time, even though the American guidelines are based on a course of three days or 24+ hours. Mountain Savvy is charging $185 for their course - note that it is possible to take a 24 hour American Level 1 course for $150 (including accommodations) from other providers which are more socially responsible.
(Note that Doug Ironside operates through several Parks and Recreation programs, so ask who the real operator is when considering these programs as well. As of the 2002 season mountain savvy courses are being offered through Portland Parks and Recreation.)
