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Everything posted by trustyredalien

  1. RIP Ryan Triplett 1977 - 2008

    Thanks to everyone for sharing their love and friendship of Ryan. This thread has meant a lot to his friends and family. I am also compiling photos for a slide show at the memorial so if you have others please send them to "jillita at gmail dot com". Jen has made a special request to those who can join us at Ryan's memorial: "Last night we talked about Ryan's service that will be held Sunday at 4pm in Volunteer Park amphitheater on Capital Hill. Rather than be gloomy and super sad - we sat around the table laughing about Ryan's funny quirks about showing up to formal events in a t-shirt, shorts and flip flops. So we decided - that's the required attire. Points go to those who have the most original t-shirt. Feel free to come in leprechaun attire too - Ryan would be so proud." So dig up your favorite t-shirt and bring your memories and smiles to share with all who love this guy and know how much he means to our wonderful friend, Jen. -Jill
  2. Johny's Gone

    AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH what news to wake up in the morning. At least my favorite dj John Richards was there to break the news so gently. KEXP is playing tributes all day. Many drinks to follow tonight. I knew when June died last spring he wouldn't be far behind. Hard life, hard man, true songs. He's the man. They don't make them like him anymore. Why the hell pieces of shit like Mick Jagger are still running around on this earth while the Man in Black who sang from the soul has gone to the Grand Ole Opry in the sky....I'll never understand. C'est la vie. We'll meet again. Don't know where, don't know when, some sunny day. Thanks for being there Johnny.
  3. Fisher Chimneys route conditions?

    Has anyone done this route recently? What shape are the Upper Curtis and Hell's Highway in? Still pretty do-able or melted out? Was interested in going up there this weekend but have never done it so I'm not sure what to expect this time o' year. Thanks!
  4. Fisher Chimneys route conditions?

    Had a great weekend up in the sun. Took three easy dayz and camped at the spots below the Chimneys (had to suckle water out of a few remaining snow patches). You can follow cairns along the tallus field to some yellow spray painted arrows (albeit faint) marking the entrance gully to the Chimneys, then just scramble up where it's most well worn. Snow was great for cramponing in the a.m., but got a bit rotten in the afternoon sun. Upper Curtis and Hell's are pretty broken up with two crevasses that may be impassable in a few weeks. (Running leaps of faith may work.) Definately a fun route with lots of variety. Much more rewarding than the slog up the Sulphide. Oh yeah - no toolies needed.
  5. Fisher Chimneys route conditions?

    Thanks! Looking forward to it!
  6. Fisher Chimneys route conditions?

    That's what I wuz thinking but wuz looking for additional input. I think we're going to check it out and bring our toolies (more official terminology) to play with so I'll letcha know how it goes.
  7. Fisher Chimneys route conditions?

    Yeah I'm sure it's always do-able. Just wondering if it's ice climby (that's my official terminology) up Hell's Highway.
  8. blood type diets

    Does anyone have experience with altering your diet depending on your specific blood type? The theory is that people with certain blood types should stick with certain "beneficial" foods and avoid others that may influence any number of health issues. A naturopath I've gone to highly recommends this kind of diet. We're doing some tests to see if my thyroid is f-ed up, and she believes this will help. Need some support to believe it's worth giving up my beloved tomatos, potatoes, mangos, oranges and.......ketchup. Hey but vino is still a-ok!!
  9. blood type diets

    My intention with this thread was not to discuss how to lose weight with the latest fad. If you want to flame the Jennifer Anniston Flat Ass Starvation diet then start another thread. The intention was about how diet (re: food type - not food volume/moderation) and blood type may or may not effect health issues (re: thyroid, migraines, high blood pressure, allergies, et. al.). Some of you made valid points about the difficulty in linking divergent blood types to ancestral eating patterns. Hmmmmm good point. BUT I think that many of you are like most practitioners of Western medicine in that they debunk alternative ways of thinking in favor of shoving the multi-billion dollar pharmaceutical industry down our systems. Pharmaceutical researchers do their own type of bogus research on the human lab rats in America - that's anyone who's ever walked into a drug store pharmacy - and then shove our own money up our ass with the price of prescription medicine. If Western docs and the public would look more at the root of ailments rather than covering them up with an exponential number of drugs there would be a decrease in the American dependency on prescription meds. Oh but wait, the pharmaceutical and insurance companies might lose some money. Can't let that happen. I'm not saying we need to do away with Western medicine. Believe me I'll be in line for the cure for cancer. I'm not some hippy freak and am skeptical of a lot of foofoo natural medicine, but believe there should be an open mind for balance. In the past year that I've seen a naturopath she's helped stave off two ailments of mine that I thought were ending my active outdoor lifestyle, ones that my Western doc blindly wrote prescriptions for and left me even more frustrated and depressed. And don't you dare call it a placebo effect cuz I'm living proof that it wasn't. So if I try this blood type diet and it helps me some more, great. If not, I got back to eating ketchup. But don't sit on your high horse and call it hooey or baloney or bogus or quack until you've done it yourself.
  10. blood type diets

    Yeah there are supposed to be specific beneficial foods for each type. My doc gave me a 5-page handout for Type A. I did a quick google for O's and it seems that you're meat eaters/high protein, but didn't list specifics. But my doc didn't categorize people like that. I could be a meat eater, too, but have to avoid bacon (mmmmm), beef (mmmmmm), and liver (fine by me). I think if you look at the book "Eat Right 4 Your Type" it lists all the specific foods. But again....I'm not totally endorsing this program cuz I don't know anyone who's done it.....hence this thread......
  11. Cheatin' cheatin' cheatin'

    Looks like a rubber one of the X-Men would wear.....
  12. Intermediate climbing from The Mountaineers

    aHA! I knew it wasn't the Mounties. They wouldn't be caught dead with yellow gaiters and balloons.
  13. This just kicks ass!

    Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn that's sweet!! Kids these days get all the cool shit. I thought I was lucky just to get my own locker at the IMA. Time to go back to grad school.
  14. Intermediate climbing from The Mountaineers

    Jim you crazy Irishman. I happen to know that you are one kick ass dude that would make shorts over polypro look sweet. I'm glad that you've had such an awesome experience with the course, but there are as many opinions of the course as there are students. My friends and I happen to be on the sour end of the scale due to frustrating experiences with leaders. And they wonder why their graduation rate (basic or int) isn't closer to 100%?? Do I want to wade through all the climbing styles until I find a leader I feel comfortable with? I've tried, it hasn't worked well, it's not worth it to me. Perhaps some of us are just better suited to do things with small groups of friends whose climbing styles we know intimately, rather than waste more weekends with the herd. As long as we're out doing our thing and facing our own challenges, that's all that matters.
  15. Intermediate climbing from The Mountaineers

    You're right Chuck, we've all done our share of dumb stuff , but I'm talking trips where leaders do not listen to other people on the trip when things begin to go haywire. When you're out with 12 people it's dangerous to think so myopically. To be a real leader means to know when to ask for help, admit when you've fucked up, and to deligate accordingly to alleviate the situation. That has not been my experience in 2 years with the Mounties and many people I know share this viewpoint.
  16. Intermediate climbing from The Mountaineers

    Oh buddy are you naive. The tales of leaders getting lost and climbing the wrong route or peak (yes I'm serious) are ENDLESS.
  17. Intermediate climbing from The Mountaineers

    If you're an alpha-male with a deficit of meaning in your life whose only fulfillment is the power trip you get from competing with other members of the class and bossing around Basic students, and demeaning other more subduded, albeit better, climbers than you.....then you'll fit in just fine. My experience (this is the Seattle group) is that the really cool people you want to climb and have fun with are NOT in the Mounties class, esp the Int class. Any remotely good natured climbers learned what a sham the club is and got out after the Basic class. I'll second what thelawgod said. Get a book, practice with some friends, and go have your own fun. You won't have to suffer under the horrendous decision-making their egotistical and often dangerous "leaders" make. Do not fall victim to their dogma that their methods are the only way to climb. If you enjoy being on a route with 11 other people and being a lemming, then go for it. "One of the greatest endeavours you will do" - give me a f-ing break!!! The only comment I agree with obsydian is that the Int class is perfect if you want to be a leader with the club. See above statement for personality requirements.
  18. asthmatics

    I've had asthma for ~10 years and it comes and goes. Can't let it stop you from anything. Just go kick some ass and keep your stupid inhaler w/in reach and tell yer amigos that you have a condition in case you have a bad attack. Your friend might have luck improving his conditioning for climbing by doing interval training, to better train his system for stressful and low O2 conditions. I've also had a lot of success holistically by removing dairy and wheat from my diet. I felt that the drugs were f-ing me up more, but I still keep my inhaler for emergencies.
  19. Need Help with Glacier Ice Worms in August!

    I don't get it. Why the hell is a honky business college in Mass sponsoring the NC Glacier Climate Project ??? I know all about scraping up research grants, but this one seems like a stretch.
  20. Kobe, Kobe, Kobe...

    The Unborn Victims of Violence Act "would recognize an embryo or fetus as a seperate person that can be an independent victim of a crime, with legal rights equal to, and seperate from, those of a woman." Soon it's going to be a felony to go on the pill.
  21. Make Money Off Terrorist Attacks

    I initially thought it was something from The Onion too. Just read that the Pentagon is pulling the plug on it. . What a bunch of fawking idiots.
  22. Lance makes it 5!

    I agree with him. Riding your bike at 60mph downhill through the Pyrenees, weaving around serpentine corners among 150 other riders requires no skill whatsoever. Standing in left field for 2 hours scratching your balls......that takes years of training. Dum faggot.
  23. Lance makes it 5!

    Yeah Lance was pretty good. Would have loved to have seen Tyler on the podium too. Poor kid was totally bummin' in the interviews. Maybe he'll realize how BAD ASS he is when he gets away from the frenzy. Or when he sees his hot ass up on the Imax screen whenever that comes out. Next year fer sure. I kinda rolled my eyes at this: Indurain, the only other man to win five straight Tours, said he considers Merckx the greatest rider of all time. "He competed in virtually every cycling competition, whereas Armstrong really only focuses on the Tour," said the Spaniard. Yeah well Eddie didn't have to come back from FAWKING CANCER to kick everyone's FAWKING ASS!!!!!!
  24. Road Bikes

    $1500 should get you a good rig. Do your research online or in mags. Really consider how much you're going to use it before you invest. - Don't go with cheap components. You want your shit to work. Go w/at least Ultegra. - If you want to save weight w/o a carbon or titanium frame, get a sweet set of light rims (saves on rotational weight). - Aluminum's fine, just kinda stiff and doesn't absorb road vibration well. You might notice this if you're riding 200m/week, but otherwise it's good stuff. Steel is sweet. I have 2 steel frames and they're like butta. It's b.s. about them being heavier. It's all about how the tubing is made. - Campy's sweet if you can get it. I think their lower end stuff (still high quality) can be found in your price range. If you're into the Ebay thing you can get good deals there. My dad got a brand new (used twice) titanium Serotta w/Campy Record and Chorus for about $2k. Suckers!

    Bathtubs and shaving cream are way funner than rippin' shit off together. She must have really luved you......