i know wtf a gibbs ascender is. and they will sever a rope if loaded dynamically.
they are fukin notorious for it --ESPECIALLY the older ones. but dont believe me.
Give 'em hell, Lummox!
MtnGuide:
Any considerations of natural influence bring us closer to a balanced existence. Those of more mature cultures (regardless of their foibles) are worth consideration.
Ah, yes. Finally on topic.
The 9 Star Ki is not real Feng Shui.
Black Hat Sect is the real thing, there are two books by Sarah Rossbach that are excellent for those interested:
The Chinese Art of Placement ISBN# 0-14-019353-7
Interior Design with Feng Shui ISBN# 0-14-019608-0
Yet another for tying off to pieces.
The exception I have made to this rule is when there is a bolt near the anchor at the bottom, and I tied in for back-up to the anchor with a single locking biner/clovehitch.
I have also used heavy-duty bungee cords in the anchor system when the crux is low to add further dynamics to what is basically a static anchor point.
Minimal rope pull on either end of the rope is key to a functional clove hitch.
The loops minimize ropeweight from feed end, and serve as backup in case of a failure during fall.
Those things are spendy! Wren is tha bomb, tho.
I have fallen both on aid and free with the clove. Free, it's o.k. if you are attentive to keeping the knot loose as you move (by loops or backpack feed).
Between good stances I would always pull up a couple of overhand loops and clip them to lockers on my harness, the, as you move through crux, you can drop loops with one hand, and run the clove. Next stance , re-org.
I have fallen on the clove, solo. Worked great, but I had back-up loops clipped to harness, just in case.
I have yet to fall on my soloist, I trust the mechanics less.