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    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   11/10/22

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EWolfe

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Everything posted by EWolfe

  1. define "good" climber

    If you go climbing most weekends, conserve energy at work for climbing, watch your weight so that you can be a better climber, take health supplements to avoid injury and boost energy, lead at least 5.10 on trad and sport you are a good climber.
  2. I'm done

    I need a weekend to recover from my weekend!
  3. Happy B-Day Off White

    Happy B-day, Off. If you were feeling really welcoming, it would go to the Access forum Erik
  4. *&_#()*&@#(*&%@#*_&%_(@#&%_(@#&%(*_@#&%(*@#&(%*&

    Yes, well that's the sort of blinkered philistine pig-ignorance I have come to expect from you non-creative garbage. You sit there on your loathsome, spotty behinds not caring a tinker's cuss for the struggling artist!
  5. Dirty climbing talk

    wide fetish
  6. Election Over!

    Build a man a fire, keep him warm for a day Set a man on fire, keep him warm for the rest of his life
  7. John Roper

    John Roper is a great guy - and he is also the pre-eminent North Cascades climbing historian. Thanks, John!
  8. Made

    http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=622727 :moondance:
  9. Looking Glass TR:

    Looking Glass is fucking scary shite. Nice work!
  10. Check your axle nuts!
  11. Model Worker at Index fells like a total sandbag to me. Others?
  12. COHERANCE

    Someone oughta knock this guy down to alllowercase
  13. STROH's

    I used to think drunk posting was a bad idea...but I am reconsidering my position after this thread.
  14. porter

    Any Porter in a stormer
  15. What Is the Internet Doing To Our Brains?

    Cliff-noting the world?
  16. There are countries fatter than you America`

    ...before breakfast?
  17. Poor Ed McMahon

    http://www.cnn.com/2008/SHOWBIZ/TV/06/06/lkl.mcmahon/
  18. Real change:

    I thought this thread was about the 'zine Layton sells downtown.
  19. Poor Ed McMahon

    Isn't that what your 234 acres is for? It's hard to feel sorry for these guys...
  20. Poor Ed McMahon

    What in the hell do you do with 109 rooms?!?
  21. I am back on land...

    Erden, you have my greatest respect for what you are doing and your causes. Glad you made it to land! Erik Wolfe
  22. I am the idiot

    Master of the obvious
  23. We recently found out that John Burcham (sp?) recently finished a 7-year project in Sedona - a 10-pitch 5.12a arete. We got what beta we could, which was "bring 1 rope and 16 draws". We also got directions, and last Saturday headed out to do the climb. I was a bit tired from the day before, having just finished a first ascent of a 100-foot 5.11c with 4 seperate cruxes, but we were so psyched to do a long route I sucked it up. We parked on 89A and hiked up to the obvious prow. The crux is pitch 8, on the wild overhang visible above: As we were casting about for the start of the climb, David found some "cleaning" tools and got a little silly: The first indication that **maybe** the beta wasn't exactly right was a crack above that looked like it needed gear... Well, we found a chimney to the right of the crack that had a bolt 50 feet up, and David said it "looked like easy climbing to the bolt" (this would be a recurring theme to justify our lack of protection). David leading out the first pitch: And finally getting to the bolt just below the squeeze chimney section: I followed, and since I suck at chimneying, I got stuck in the squeeze and had to pull through it. **Sigh** So much for a clean ascent! We found the anchors at the top of the chimney, and a nice line of bolts heading upward. Looking up: David lead the second pitch - cerebral slopey and pocket moves on rippled sandstone.A 5.10 pitch and Classic Sedona! I took the lead on pitch 3, weighing in at 5.10: David took the lead on pitch 4, striking out on to the arete and great position. I followed,and when I got to this roof and saw David had basically soloed this flaring bulge, I KNEW we were supposed to bring gear! It was solid 5.11! Notice the fairly useless bolt on the slab below: I looked at David with newfound respect as he said, "It wasn't that bad..." Shaken by this turn of events, I then took the sharp end, wandered out in several directions with no sign of bolts. Damn, I need some gear!!! I spotted a line of bolts above me for the next pitch, so knew I was on the right track. I sucked it up (thinking of David's last lead) and lead this munge pitch with one slung sandstone handle in 100 feet (dirty 5.7). Did I mention it was sandy as all hell and I was gripped out of my skull? My foot slipped a little once, and my body coursed with adrenaline. I got to a good ledge, belayed David up, and he took the lead. The next pitch was short, traversing a roof to the very edge of the formation. I followed, looked up and handed David the draws: "It's all yours!" David leading out pitch 7 on the amazing prow: When I followed this pitch (another .10) and got to the anchors, I saw the amazing overhanging wall above and we knew this next pitch was the business. Just one problem: the first bolt was 60 feet up, past another roof that looked solid 10, and 40 feet up a steep diehedral! "Itlooks pretty straightforward" David said, and he took off on lead. I watched with trepidation as he soloed up to the first bolt, and turned the corner: As he disappeared, I heard him yell: "This is the business!" He lead the pitch with one hang, and I followed up. "He's crazy!" I thought as I pulled the roof into the diehedral and up. Whe I turned the corner, I was amazed at the clean, thin corner above me. Some solid .10 moves petered out into solid .11 layback/jamming culminated by a few 5.12 slab moves, then the corner opened back up into nice jams. I aided through the crux and was stunned by the amazing position. The final pitch was one of the most exposed pitches I have ever done. The climb goes straight out to a vertical arete, with a wild swing move with 200 feet of air below my feet. The final moves of the 10th pitch were solid 5.10+, and we gained the summit: The thought that we should have brought a second rope for the rappel was in the front of my mind, but David assured me he had never done a Burcham route that you couldn't get off with one rope. I was unconvinced, and insisted he find the rappel anchors. Off he goes! I was relieved when I heard him shout: "I found the rappel route!" and I rapped to the end of the rope on the vertical wall. David took off again, and shortly thereafterthese words drifted up to me: "I am at the end of the rope, and don't see any anchors!" Oh, crap. "Wait! I found a ledge!" Then the rope went slack as he went off rappel. I followed him down, and saw to my amazement David perched on a 2-foot ledge 15 feet to the right of the line, and 50 feet off a large, sandy ledge. I swung over with the end-of-rope knots at my belay device, and stuck a handjam into the back of the ledge, perched precariously. I took a deep breath, and released one of the knots. I traversed the small ledge, pulling the rope with the remaining knot through the anchors above with each move. Meanwhile, David had scrambled down a few feet, and found a perfect horn to sling. He took off his 8 mil perlon belt ( noting that his pants were going to fall down now), slung the horn, threw a 'biner on it, and declared it bomber. Things seemed almost surreal as I watched him weight and rap the line, just waiting for the perlon to roll...It never happened, and I followed to the ledge with great relief. The rest of the rappels went uneventfully, and soon we were on the ground. I was happy to be alive at that point, and completely knackered. We later found out the gear notes: bring 6-7 peices of gear to 2" bring 2 ropes It's nice having a ropegun! Thanks, David!
  24. Huge fall at Smith

    I am not going to read 6 pages of spray, but that fall is pretty common - the .11 crux hits at the bolt, but many get pumped out trying to get funky gear in below the bolt with hard, insecure climbing. It's a clean fall and not Huge. Carry on, Erik
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