SmilingWhiteKnuckles

Yeah Boyyyyyzzzz!!! Does that look cool. Great report Scott. Glad you were able to snap a few pics too--putting wings on this office chair.

I've been skiing Silvretta 555's for 3 years doing some touring, some ski mountaineering, and mostly lift-assisted in and out of bounds skiing. I have the DIN cranked up to about 10 and have never had any problems coming out of them when I've messed up a turn or failed to land something. I definitely don't ski as aggressively as some and weigh about 170lbs, but I like stuff like the backcountry at Alpental... These look old school, but they do have the added benefit of fitting my mountaineering boots if need be (God help you though on the way down). Although I finally got a pair of Dynafit AT boots which climb AND ski well.

Dang Scott and OfftheHook! Blazing fast. Nice work. So after the cold spell on the north face, you followed Bug's pink line to the top?? Makes me want to hit it before the winter comes in to stay, but maybe we're there already...

Trip: Prusik Peak - Stanley-Burgner Route Date: 9/9/2007 Trip Report: It is hard to conceive of the first ascent of this route in 1968. Must have been a real triumph ten years before the modern SLCD was invented. Triumph was certainly prominent among the strong feelings I had upon reaching the summit. Another was that it was good to be pushed right to the edge of my ability and stamina. This is one of those 5.9 routes put up by hardmen of yesteryear that slaps you around a bit, leaving scrapes and bruises, possibly a broken ego. But still, days later, there is a feeling of achievement and joy at climbing this incredible, beautiful route, and appropriately, the enchantment has woven its spells around my mind. ScottG and I met on the top of Forbidden a couple years ago and Marko reintroduced us electronically and we made plans to do Prusik car to car in September. We are both new fathers so the surgical strike appealed to us more than it might to others with expendable time... Just as Scott lead the way in planning the trip, so to did he blast the pace all day from darkness to light and darkness again. While the Dude abides, the Gangler strides. We met at 2:30am in Bellevue off I-90 and made good time, leaving the car at 5:15am. Although, we'd initially thought to go in via Snow Lake, on the drive, we decided to use the Colchuck Lake approach for the scenery (a good decision!). By 6:45am, we'd reached the lake. Halfway up the Aasgard trail, there were goat tracks and then a big piss stain. Roger has taught me to tune in to things like this, and although I couldn't smell the animals as he might and I certainly didn't reach down to see if it was warm, the wet stain in the trail made me think a goat was near. A little bit further up the trail a feeling crept through me. Glancing right across the slope, there he was, papa, still and staring at me. Then, I saw mom screened behind larches chowing away. Mom headed downhill and then the kid appeared scrambling after her and the young family moved down on their morning routine. Thoughts of my own family filled me as I watched them... Scott had taken the slabs to the right of the bulge in the center of the basin, but I knew he was still ahead. Pretty soon, I saw him under the small falls at the top of the basin. We scrambled the rocks above, and by 8:30am, we were at the top of Aasgard. Things were going well. The sun hit us over the rise and damn, it's been awhile since I've been up in the Lost World. Wow. Shortly after leaving a pack at Prusik Pass, we were at the base of the route, eating a Gobbler and getting ready to roll. We had a 60m rope and decided we'd lead it in 4 pitches if it worked so that we'd each get two leads. Scott started up the first pitch at 11:05am. Upon rereading some route descriptions, the crack's width is well annotated. Somehow I didn't expect it. But it was to become typical of the route, the unexpected variety and the regular bouts of offwidth. Coming up to Scott in the trees, I gave props where due, nice lead man. I got the next lead up a crack from the belay and then across exposed chicken heads and up into the crack and chimney system which leads to the summit. This pitch was a blast. Hard enough to be really fun, continually steep but punctuated by ledges. Eventually I built a belay on a small ledge about 20 feet below the massive chockstone. Scott pulled a stiff move up a crack and squeezed his 6'6" body up behind the chockstone. From there he opted to bring me (with our small pack) up before leading the flared chimney. This thing was gnarly. Sure, there are many many strong climbers that fly up this route, who handle chimneys and offwidths with grace and calm. Aspirants, we tip our hats to these climbers, but we are not them. He took it facing right and hung a bit, aided a bit, grunting his way up it as I encouraged him on, thankful that it was him, wondering how it would go come my turn. I took it left and let's just say that we were happy to be on the ledge above in the sunshine and so near the top. But dang I was getting tired. Already??? So after reestablishing the belay below the final dihedral and refueling a bit, I headed up the final pitch. Shit, these are the goods! The first weird block/bulge gave me pause. Placing to the left of the block in a hand size crack, I couldn't quite get situated to place more pro above it on that side. Ended up going up the wider crack on the right somehow. Phew. Up in the final corner, my strength was waning fast, but here it was, more wide stuff! At least the pocketed crack on the right hand wall would provide good pro. There was a stance at the base of this and somehow above, I was able to get a really good blue cam. My last two nuts weren't the best and it was surprising how little gear I had left! Above the stance, the chicken heads on the face disappeared. I couldn't get a good jam in the thin crack, but up, up, mind searching frantically for holds as the form went to crap and the strength oozed out like liquid from a punctured bag. And suddenly, the lame heel toe jam of my right foot popped, my arms gave way and I was gone! What time passed?? NExt5 rememberance, eyes open, flying headfirst down along the cliff like Superman, but slowing. I fell!! I'm alright. I'm upside down. Body feels alright, but shit, I fell. Blue cam held. Then "dammit, dammit!" Invectives. I didn't even look down at Scott. Shocked. Shocked and pissed. Pissed and determined. Almost without pause, a bit foolishly fast, I get back on it. Back up to the high point and I can't remember how I got beyond it. Perhaps a chickenhead appeared out left...One more piece and grunting up a little further, I get to another strenuous stance from which I place the big gold #4. A ledge off left if I can only stretch to reach it. But no yogi! No yogi! I switch to a desperate lieback off the crack, right foot near my hands, left foot slapping at the face like a robotic fish. The strength is going, going. A lunge and somehow I am on the ledge. Wahoo!!! I mantle up to the top and holler. Wahoo!!! Pretty soon I have a belay set and the shoes come off, feet dangling over the edge so I can watch Scott. He moves quickly up, but the first bulge/block makes him grunt and this makes me smile. Then the finish, well he grunts a bit with the effort, but makes it look pretty easy. He comes all the way up the crack not really needing the ledge off the the left...But we are on top and the day is amazing. An icy plunge in Inspiration/Talisman Lake with the rising trout just before the sun dips behind the Witch's Tit caps the climb and restores us for a satisfied walk through the upper lakes, down Aasgard and out. Gear Notes: 60m rope. Medium+ alpine rack. Doubles (cams) from thin fingers to big hands. Approach Notes: Yeah, it's pretty long.

No wonder you didn't respond to my email! (concerning some PMS ads) Well no worries (sounds and looks like you have none) -- issue has been resolved. Hope you get more powder than Tony Montana!

Blazing saddles! Speedy work. Nice job and great write-up and photos. Thanks.

Great TR. As a brand new parent, I love hearing about getting the kids out and all the tips from parental expectations to trip ideas and methods to the hidden bag of candy. Thanks.

Has anyone been up on the north/east side of Slesse lately? Wondering if there is still snow near the giganto bivy platform on the NE buttress?

Good going, Tony!

VEry cool. Thanks for posting the report and pics. Looks like one fantastic climb!! Way to go!

Thanks for the feedback. MS, hope to read a trip report from you soon then. Have a great trip!

Heyzoos Christos, Sky! RAd stuff. Thanks for the report and pics. PMS, would that be any shorter than the ElDo approach and descending the Triad Glacier??? Would it be easier? faster?

Questions, questions. Anybody been in there recently? I'm wondering if Early Morning Spire SW face is dry.

Has anybody been into Glacier in the past two years? Anybody travelled the Whitechuck Road or Trail? I'm looking for a conditions report...(hell, does the trail even exist anymore?)..

Jaredvq, that'd be the piece I left, probably more suited to weighting down a few papers on your desk. If you have a better use for it, have at, it's yours. Way to go on getting the arete! Sounds like fun (well except for the loose rock parts). Did you come down somewhere between Argonaut and Colchuck then??

Summited Colchuck at 3:10pm. Saw two dudes on summit shortly thereafter as I peered down the east gulley routes. Exchanged a wave (with one of you I suppose). I just read your report. Sounds cool. The first time I tried that route, I ascended the N buttress couloir just fine, but rode the ridge from there. And it was much like Weekend Climberz said...ended up being a great route. Seeing your pic, I think you arrived at the trailhead just as I was leaving the parking lot.

Trip: Argonaut - NE Couloir Date: 6/2/2007 Trip Report: Decided after reading up on various reports on CC.com that this would make a fine solo outing and I was eager to get into the Stuart range again. It had been since September afterall! The trip I took was one that came recommend someplace among these postings and I recommend it as well. In summary, up Argonaut via the NE Couloir, down Argonaut's East gulley, overland and up Colchuck's South face, and down the Colchuck Glacier. In more detail, I walked up the Stuart Lake trail to Mountaineers Creek. Up that until spotting the east fork, crossing the streams in the pleasant forest there. Even managed a wood ride on one wet log, straddling a la Dr. Strangelove. Yee haw! Sometimes if you've been strictly on trails for a spell, a little offroad action really fits the bill. Saturday, the Schwackmaninov was music to my ears, and any extreme heinousness was avoided by sticking in the timber on the left side of the Argonaut basin. I reached snow (and larch trees shortly thereafter) around 5400' stopped to fill up on water and don the crampons. After that it was smooth sailing really. Up snow to the top of the moraine and into Jason's Esophogus (as one report called it). The gulley was as billed, a pretty consistent 45 degrees, and yes, still a bit of ice in the 1st constriction. Occasional hollowness with water rushing underneath, step gingerly to the side...Oh in the 1st constriction, one plant of the ice brought the water like a mini geyser the snow was so saturated there. I exited the gulley a bit early perhaps, but why not. I was ready for views. One tricky, exposed shimmy around a big block -- excitement in crampons!-- and I was on the upper snowfield. Left my pack at the rap station to the east gulley descent (the upper one apparently - I saw two), ate some food, and took off the boots for some much needed foot drying. The trip to the summit was an easy shot from there with some really cool ridge climbing on superb granite. There is an absolutely massive orange slab of rock leaning against the summit block. Becky mentions it. I went under it going and around it on the south ledges for variety coming back. Sick exposure. [blue is up, Red down.] One rappel brought me to a big ledge system, but I managed to get my rope caught in the crack (situated perfectly for just this scenario). This was somewhat fortunate cause it provided me the opportunity to climb this awesome dihedral, but it did make me wonder why I had brought the rope at all if I was going to climb back up it. Well it would've been a gripping downclimb, especially with a pack on. From there I traversed the ledge system to the east gulley (just 40 feet away), put the crampons on and downclimbed the gulley. Then it was onward with the technical aspects of this journey behing me. Over and up to the top of Colchuck and down the Colchuck Glacier to the trail making for a rather tasty loop hike in the high country. Gear Notes: Missing: extra (dry) socks aluminum crampons, one aluminum axe, one Black Compact tool, 50m rope, sunscreen Approach Notes: Missing: mosquito repellent PS: Much thanks to Heinrich for the pre-trip beta.

friggin awesome, Sky! Great report.

Awesome stuff, Colin! Can't wait for pics.

Very cool! Looks a little thinner than when Nelson and I did it a couple years ago. Did you enjoy it? I thought that route was sweet! First pitch looked pretty exciting. What did you protect it with? That whole slab was iced up when we did it...took screws.

Wow! Great report. That's an awesome trek, man! Way to get after it. Especially with the public transport thrown in there...unheard of!

Trip: - Chair Peak, NE Buttress Date: 4/3/2007 Trip Report: Can hardly believe that it's my first time back in the Alpental Valley this winter! And it's not even winter. das toof It felt like winter this morning with lots of wind blowing the snow around and amazing high striated clouds arced with sunbows...Had an awesome climb up the NE Buttress of Chair this morning. This route is still in fine shape with changing, but predominantly thunker neve and the occasional spot of ice where it was most wanted. I took an *$#%ed skin track up by going too far toward the shoulder above Snow Lake (glad it was not followed by others during the day). Sheesh there's a lot of snow. And new snow at that! The snow--occasionally foot deep powder/windblown--was somewhat iffy in spots, but it would have made a sweet powder run down to source lake. But alas, I wanted to get up on the route while it was still chilly. Was able to skin way up into the Chair Peak basin (NE basin), leave the skis and get to the base of the buttress by about 9:30am. Nearly did a recon of the north face route, but thought better about treading off through the deep windblown snow there by myself and for what? Probably wasn't going to hit that one...I bet it's in shape now, though I'd expect some wallowing on the north face route. Got to the top about 10:30am and back to the skis an hour later. It's a quick, exciting trip, and I am reminded again of what a winter playground this valley is! I thought I was alone up there, but getting back to the thumbtack (and considerably less cold wind), a couple of dudes were coming down from the ridge. Met Brian M who was making a late training surge up to the Thumbtack after a big night of revelry. Met Barry B and another skier. Glad some other folks were out there picking this cherry cherry early spring day in the Cascades! Yee haw for Daddy daycare!! Hey, Brian_M said some fellows took some pictures. If you want to share, I'd be psyched to check them out (show 'em to mom). Gear Notes: skis, skins, crampons, 2 tools, 50' rope, sunscreen

Any thought as to how the NF route conditions might be right now?

Any thought as to how the NF route conditions might be right now?

Yeah boyZ!!!! Awesome. Hey, the first picture of Mark--what's behind and above him? The middle peak? Is that the gulley system you climbed? So I guess you climbed the North Face of the North Peak in the dark...Friggin badass. And probably warmer than catnapping up on that shoulder...brrrr.