glassgowkiss

rat you dolt, like it's worth fucking driving 3 hours, trying to cross a river for 2 pitches of WI4? don't think so. "you're a total fucking pussy"- hey, aren't you the one who didn't climb on pyramid a couple of years ago, saying it was too thin- asswipe?

so blowboarder you are in a minority. rudy- this might have to do with strenghth vs proprioception training (time spent on rock). also don't forget that you can climb only as hard as your weakest link will let you (forearms). your maximum power might be up, but how you use it ia a question. pure strength/endurance training only gives you a good base. climbing (on real rock!) makes you efficient at it. this is what gives you ability to use as little strength and still stick the hold.

healthcare is in state of total crisis. i know- i work in healthcare. insurance companies can thank only themselves for being in financial trouble. killing preventetive approach in medicine has the end result in the form of 70% of people overweight or obese. bin laden is not a threat to the US- the shape an average joe IS. anything that has to do with accident on a property or in a car is not covered by health insurance.

not true at all! you are comparing apples and oranges. maximum power has to do with fast twitch fibers and endurance has to do with slow twitch fibers. so person b workout format might be endurance, hence they can squat more with 50 lbs then person a. now this is my experiience, that a 180lbs person will do fewer pull ups then a 130 lbs pesron (the same fitness level of course). and show me how many people over 200 lbs can do a single pull up with let's say 45 lbs on their belt. now i am not that strong, but i can crank at least 4 at this moment without mouch weight training in the past 5 years.

you can see it from the road, at least the upper part. total nightmare- by the time you organize a boat, drive up there, cross the river might as well drive to the rockies and climb some real ice. you might want to check stuff on duffy lake road- much more reliable then washington.

nope. muscle is inefficient at staying warm. even worse at altitude. and a poor source of energy compared to fat. you guys need more time reading and less computer time. both statements are dead wrong. dru- muscle tissue is what generates heat, not fat. the reason you feel cold is oxygen level in your bloodstream. staying warm is not related to your total body mass. off course a smaller person will radiate heat faster, but it will also warm up faster with movement. this first statement is soooo bs. now why would you need a big pack in the mountains anyway? with modern gear your gear should not go over 35lbs anyway. sorry pal, but i can tell you have never been on a harder pitch (12 and up). bacause if you climbed such stuff you'd know that your forearms is what goes first. higher the body mass harder your forearms work. both of you need to freshen' up on some basic physiology and excercise physiology. werd

you might have an issue (like a lot of climbers) with tight chest, lateral neck muscles. this can (among other things) cause subclavian artery impingment, hence the blood flow to your upper extermities is decreased. with your hands way above you head for prolonged period of time, the restriction might be severe.

ps with -12C in Clinton and -11C on the top of 7th heaven i don't see why people wouldn't try to climb in marble and on husume. but if you head to little wet don't forget your vecro gloves (not for dry tooling)

agreed, but there's a better social life in the Mile O. cheers, lilooet social life oh yeah forgot velcro gloves and high boots, the edge of the cliff and salt lick. with the mill closing down and bc rail selling the to canadian pacific i would think that in 5 years that town will be nothing more then a bunch of borded up empty places with amphetamine operation now and then. oh yeah, don't forget the dart tournaments....

i was climbing in marble last week of november. the good side is that with all the rain there should be plenty of water to form the routes when (?????) it gets cold.

Don, i think the solution is to set some more routes in the area. the whole wall to the left of pan dome is one possibility. there is a whole bunch of not so steep cliffs and with little imagination this would be a very accessible training ground for the situation like we are having right now- no rock or ice climbing within 4 hours of driving. at this moment i am lacking a drill, so my options are limmited.

rat does it answer your question? it's the same principle as not hacking on early season ice in marble canyon.

side note about tool shed routes: there is much less now right now at the base, hence you have to climb at least 15 more feet before clipping the first bolt. i dicked in some shitty kb before doing couple of long pulls (remember- you have to get about 25 ft before you can clip the first piece). M7 should get rebolted, so one actually can find the bolts as they get covered in snow and ice. pls also no thrashing on these routes. be delicate, as the rock is so-so and some of the edges are very critical for free ascent.

luke, not jonny dawes but jim dunn. jonny dowes is about 5'7" tall. looking at the stats what a bunch of fat fucks. whole 136 lbs (that's before taking my tripple coiler dump).

Rad, my motivation is that is sucks when you see your fellow climbers and coutrymen getting a shaft. at this time i think i did enough. i am in a process of farwarding this info to others, who can write better and can spend their time looking into this matter. as far as Surdel goes- he can speak for himself. i just think this whole situation stinks and if it was mis-handled in a major way.

Rad, I just received a copy of 2 email from Surdel himself. Film Polski doen't have a copy of the sale, but that might not be a big factor, since they keep the records for 10 years. There is a reason for it. The standard contract for distribution rights is usually 5 or 10 years maximum. So in that case his rights to showing the movie expired long, long time ago- at least from 1991. Second distribution rights do not cover screenings of the movie at festivals without author's conscent. your links in this case are useless. Film is a property of a Polish citizen and was illegaly shown in Canada. So why would we apply US copyright laws in this situation. this reminds me of the situation, where some Jews from NYC tried to sue Polish govenment (and current private property owners) in federal court in NY, the claimed property is in Poland. last time i cheked US did not have any jurisdition in europe or canada. The finale of this situation is that Alex Bertulis made a huge mistake, tried to create a phony story to cover it up and doesn't even have enough balls to admit it. court adjurned

Rad, i am not contradicting myself. Just because someone bought right to show a movie somewhere doesn't mean he should be getting credit for it. Surdel is till the owner to the copy rights. the situation is like this. imagine that i buy star wars for distribution in poland from lucas films. 20 years later i submitt this film to some film festival, like the one in Lodz. film wins first prize. now i pocket the ca$h and the award. wrong! this film still belongs to lucas films, i had rights to show it in movie theaters- that's all. anyway- he had no right to submitt the movie in the first place, since the rules of the festival states clear, that only the legal owner can submitt the entry.

I promised to update the information as I get it. I took your advice and called Bertulis and talked to him for about 25 minutes. He was made aware of this movie after the success of the film in Trento (Italy) in 1969. Lito Tejada-Flores (do not know if I did get the name just right- my apologies if not) was a fellow who told him about the movie. In the spring of 1981 Bertulis went to Poland. There he went to Film Polski (at that time Polish distribution company) in Warszawa. He purchased North American distribution rights to the movie. He believed at the time that he purchased the only existing copy of “Odwrot”. He was also supposedly told that the director of the movie was dead. This fact I have very hard time to believe, since at that time Surdel was still very active as a director. Just 4 years earlier he made a movie about winter Lhotse Expedition. I also checked on Google, that Surdel’s name was mentioned with movies made in the 90’s from the Polar Expeditions by Polish explorer Kaminski. After the copy was brought to the US, it was shown by Bertulis several times, like in Telluride in 1982. He also stated that Banff Mountain Film Festival approached him to show the movie. Among the most important things he said were a couple of facts. First of all he admitted he learned about Surdel (being alive) the same day he flew into Calgary. Apparently he tried to contact him through Jozef Nyka. I do not understand why he did not try to find email to Surdel at that time or even a phone number. Second he also was claiming he was in contact with Jerzy Surdel, but I have copies of his correspondence (last entry December 1, 2004) and there is no mention of this fact. I had a lot of problems with his story. Some of the little details did not add up. The fact of the matter is Alex Bertulis did not own the rights to the movie, hence he did not have the right to accept the prize for it. A lot of actions were done upon assumption, without checking facts. BMFF did fail in the due diligence work.

it has been soloed by at least 2 people. and with m6 rating hardly falls under "hard route"category. the main issue if it is formed up at all (lower ice pitches) and the avi danger. i was there in 2001 and not a drop of ice was on that cliff then. talk to Scott DeCapio...

Bogen and other unbelievers. I don’t know how else to get to your heads. I tried to explain in simplest terms the whole matter. The article (or the link) you provide is writtem by Elzbieta Lipowska, Calgary resident. She is Polish too. She was the one picking Bertulis from the airport and drove him to the Festival. This is the timeline I managed to establish: Bertulis was a member of Polish Dhaulagiri Expedition in 1979. There he met Wojtek Kurtyka. Btw- he had to be rescued high on the mountain by other members of that expedition. Somewhere before December 13, 1981 he flew to Warszawa and obtained a copy of the movie “Odwrot”. He kept the movie, what he believed the last copy of it, for over 20 years. After his retirement he decided to restore the copy, he was in possession of. Before September of 2004 he submitted the mentioned film to Banff Mountain Film Festival and the movie was accepted. He also believed, that the director and the producer- Jerzy Surdel was dead. He also was claiming that it was unknown and forgotten movie, saved by him from obscurity. Now this is the most important part of the timeframe and sequence of events. He flew to Calgary on Thursday November 4, 2004. Elzbieta Lipowska picked him up from the airport. In the meantime she contacted Andrzej Slawinski (another Polish climber in Calgary- Rafal’s Slawinski father). Andrzej Slawinski explained, that Jerzy Surdel was not dead; he was alive, retired and lived part time in Poland and Switzerland. He also made Bertulis aware, how to contact Surdel. Knowing all these facts Bartulis attended film screening on Saturday November 6, 2004 in the main theater. This film received very good reception, both from the critics. On Sunday, November 7th, 2004 the representatives of the Festival asked Bertulis to stay for the award ceremony. During the ceremony Bertulis received the “Grand Prize”, the statue and a check for (so I think) 4 000 CAN. During his acceptance speech he did not mentioned any of the facts involving the director. Now some more facts: #1.“Unknown film” is not so unknown, since it won the main prize in Trento (Italy) in 1969. There were also several screenings of the movie in Germany, England, NYC (dates can be provided and they are public knowledge. This movie was shown on Polish TV several times- I know- I saw it myself. #2. “The last copy”- copy of this movie is available from Polish Movie Archives in 35mm, 16mm and DVD (address, telephone # and prices can be provided) #3. Awards- Banff Film Festival was aware of the whole issue within days after the festival. They never contacted Mr. Surdel (even they were provided with his email address). Even more- the director/producer found out from the flood of email messages. Epilogue: None of the claims from Mr Bertulis turned out to be true. He also accepted the prize at the Festival with complete and full knowledge, that Mr. Surdel is alive. Mr. Surdel, Mr. Slawinski and Mr. Nyka (long time contributor to many international climbing publications) tried to contact Banff Mountain Film Festival. As the response they received only two things: in the first letter BMFF sates they are in a process of contacting the lawyer. Second email contained only one sentence, asking for account information for Mr. Surdel. BMFF did not publicly change any statements since the end of the festival. Nor they did not apologize to anyone. Surdel owns the right to this movie. Bertulis never tried to contact Surdel. End of the story.

like copy right infringment and giving the prize to Bertulis, while they didn't even bother letting Surdel know his film won?

as far as red wall wonderers this route is imo the best line in the whole area. i must say it was pretty stiff for wi5. the line bolted going through thr roof to the left looks just amazing. does anyone know if it was done already or is it still a project?

doesn't sound to me like any form of apology at all. and it doesn't say who received the "grand prize" either. also i wonder since the film received "grand prize" why it's not shown during the "best of" screenings?

Jay- Dru expressed my feelings exactly on this one. I do not think that any surag coating will do untill a formal apology is issued here. My feeling is that both BMFF and Mr. Bertulis dropped the ball and have to face the music now. There was a bogus story on elephant hunting in Africa in National Geographic. A few issues ago chieff editor issued a public apology for running a bogus story. I can understand people make mistakes. Yet accepting the prize for the film by Mr. Bertulis while knowing Surdel is alive borders on fraud and dihonesty. I do not know what his motivation was, since he decided to keep a complete silence, since the whole issue was raised. I am not judging his whole character here. I am just presenting facts aviable to me at this moment. As far as the issue of Polish climbers getting a shaft for their recognition - let the past be left alone. It sucked for instance that National Geographic in their Everest 50th anniversary issue didn't even mentioned the first winter ascent done by Polish expedition. There were several episodes (like with N Pillar of Eiger) where more marketing savy western climbers tried to re-write climbing history. We cought up though in the past decade. We still do hard routes, but we also submitt kick ass material to western mags (like a new route in the Kitchatnas). Our ascents get nominated for Piolet D'Or, I think we are doing pretty good job at this moment.

yeah, it was introduced like that. the point is how this whole issue was handled: 1. the film was submitted without author's conscent 2. the reward was given to Bertulis, not the director- Surdel (even though he is alive and well) and Bertulis knew it before the festival 3. while Bertulis collected $$$ (I think roughly 4 000 CAN) and gave acceptance speach during the award ceremony nobody even mentioned Surdel. 4. so far Bertulis nor the representatives from Banff Film festival did not issue any public correction, nor apology was given in any public media. Matt- i did write, that there were several attempts to contact both Bertulis and Banf Film Festival by members of Polish climbing community. Jerzy Surdel wrote 2 letters to BMFF with very limmited response. in the first email representative from BMFF said they were contacting their lawyer. in the second letter there was only one sentece asking for his account number. nothing else. also so far Alex Bertulis did not say anything else via mail, email or any other public comment.