glassgowkiss

besides repeating La Rambla extension 9a+ he also did 8c on sight! also 9a and 9a+, another 8c/8c+ in a span of a few days! just hate to think what routes he will send in his 20's!

Was the last bit in the forest formed up?

From www.westcoastice.com "White Blotter: Bruce Kay climbed on White Blotter with Brad White and Brent Phillips. Fat and solid." And later: "Since it usually looks OK from the road and turns out to be the hardest WI5 on the planet, it's probably in 'tough' shape right now." First of all I would like to clarify: if you do a first pitch, just call it that. Second of all, it's not WI5, most likely never was. First pitch deserves WI6 rating imo. Let's get away from 5.9 A2 mentality.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-torre-traverse-garibotti-haley friggin great!

whoever climbs on devil's punchbowl is either a complete moron or trying to commit suicide. witnessed today 30-40 ft dagger taking out entire bowl and snow slope below. don't go there till this shit falls off! the dust went as far as folly! btw climbs near jameson lake looked the best, too bad we didn't scope them before the end of the day.

J5z4Vs26-TI

long range forecast for this week predicts warm temps around sw bc. judging by conditions from last weekend better bring fins and snorkel. friggin 4 hours of driving one way for some cold shower on ice (carls berg was gushing with water). marble was crowded as usual. btw- a note to newbs- the point is to get up the climbs, not to bring them down. i realize one has to learn somehow, but blindly hacking and demolishing the lines is just a bad form.

do the math- go to russia and see for yourself! plus kgb is not the shit- let's talk about gru

crux- putin is modern hitler!

Hitler was Time's Man of the Year - in 1938. Stalin made the grade twice. that's fucking great! piece of shit magazine

if this fuck is a "man of the year", why don't they give the same "honor" to hitler. after all he stabilized germany in the 30th and took care of the "jewish problem". after killing something like 1/2 of population in Chechnya he is on exact same path. great fucking choice. I bet in seattle particularly popular, since you fucks have a statue of mass-murderer- lenin

no, that's Chris Geisler. And yes, he is climbing in ski boots!

that the conditions are primo- that counts in mix/ice- one big fucking....

sorry about this. however if you go on Husume you will enjoy the same conditions. This route in particular is a work in progress and I think it would be unfair if someone scooped us to it, particularly after the initial effort. I would encourage people and do mixed routes- since they are in fantastic conditions right now.

review: boring!

all photos by Jia Condon and www.jiaproductions.com - check out his pics! i am not giving a location of this climb due to the fact it needs a redpoint ascent. however i would like to point out how good mixed conditions are. we also don't need to travel to the rockies to get out kicks this year!

stuff like husume is in prime condition- a perfect training ground for alpine adventures.

there is a shit load of stuff formed up around Whistler/Pemberton/Duffey. Mystery Roach Motel was leadable. also rambles are in, including eagles ears. white blotter was also supposed to be in (maybe). also husume butters should be in nice shape. the farm is not in and it is not looking it would be up for this season (no water).lower down breakable crust makes travel painful on the shins, but higher up it's not a problem. a new secret crag is being developed in the area- photo by jia condon

more like a ton of snow! conditions will be dependent on how much snow falls after it cools off!

Duffy Lake Rd? Marble?

Martin, The route Steve Swenson and I did about 10 years ago is almost identical to your line. We did it after a cold snap as a mix line. I just look closer at the topo and your pictures. We started almost the same place as you guys, however higher, since there was a snow cone at the base. We climbed just to the left of the corner visible above the climber on pitch 1. I think the 5.7 pitch (#2 on the topo), we climbed an ice bulge to the left, but we ended up belaying on the same tree as you guys higher up.The very top looks pretty much the same as what we did. Of course almost 10 years passed since we did this route, so some of the details are hazy. Also some of the detail on the face might look a bit different, when covered by ice and neve. I asked Steve if this line was climbed. He thought most of the lines were done in the past, because of the proximity to Seattle. A lot of climbers, like Kit Lewis used this peak as training ground, however their ascents went unrecorded. This situation was reflected in Jason's and Alex's work on the guidebook, where it was almost impossible to trace all the details at this point. ciao- Robert

yeah, right. like 99% of washingtonians know how to merge onto the freeway? or even use turn signals?

let me wipe the spray off my face..... maybe it should be called Sargent spray..... a new route seems like a bit of a stretch... btw riptide is a classic, that gets several ascents a season...

maybe you can share your tick list with us? I have climbed a fair number of lines on both faces and i don't share this opinion.

I don't know what climbers see in this area? slaby gravel pit pretty much describes the place. and how can you get fit there? by pumping your calves on a run-out choss? sorry to say that, but washington is lacking climbing areas big time. this place is one of the worst i have ever seen....