skyclimb

Better watch it smart ass, penalty slack is starting to build...next thing you know wake up call will be 1:30 with the sweet aroma of Hot Carl fouling the air Ahh the weekend is approaching people, time for hot carls, and riding bikes across the pickets, ain't life grand

You gonna do it on a bike you dirty bastard

Damn She's gettin after it. AlpinFox, you lived around the south platte area for quite a few years eh? I hear there is some good granite down in those parts, and sandstone for that matter.

How the fuck did you get out to the bugaboos you psycho semantic crazy muther fucker Travelin foo' WORD

Alpine Rock- N. Ridge of Stuart-Great gendarme is spectacular Southwest buttress of S.E.W.S. Dreamer- amazing friction and crazy face climbing way up near the top Zebra Zion-Smith-Fucking amazing Leuthold variation for Snow and Ice-Hood Moonshine Dihedral-Sickness Route on the JY crag in icicle canyon-200 ft pitch, first half 5.9 friction, second half 5.9 crack Sport-wherever I may roam-smith Love fest 2004 aww yeah fooos

web page http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/53768/page/2/view/collapsed/sb/6/o/all/fpart/1

You gotta spike it focker, SPIKE IT

BUMP BUMP BUMP CLIMBING IN THE ALPINE..........

Do the south-face shown above, walk off via the southwest ridge.

Correction: 9th, 10th, 11th

Just got home from climbing the nisqually again today I was up there from 12:00 to 5:00(the heat fo the day) today, and 5:00 to 8:00 yesterday. Everything is VERY solid, and I wasn't worried about icefall at all, however that is the nisqually, which has a very safe area for "seracing" . On the Elliot, i can't say. I personally wasn't worried about icefall other than party inflicted.... have fun and be safe

Myself and Mark_Husbands were up on that pitch yesterday...60 degree going 100...probably same serac... man did I get my ass worked, as mark goes "latida..latida" Shit But if felt good to have the water running down on you as the sun was blazing....Nisqually is good right now...Going there in 10 minutes Lots of ice "bouldering" opportunities.... can you say bouldering for ice, maybe more like "seracing"! Thats much better... ice "seracing" Also seems like a fun approach to the kautz route, if you wanna play around on the approach Take moraine trail for best access..most efficient. Thank you for allowing coffee indulging psycho to post

I am looking for an experienced partner to do a long moderate alpine Rock route with... Also considering the North Ridge on Baker and having an adventure. Call Five Four One-231-48four ohhhh... I will be away from the office for the next 8 days, so call the phone. Lets get after some shizza Nick

Danner...leather mt. shasta model boots. Climb fairly well, and are versatile for everything...hiking...snow...skiing(silvrettas), crampons(strap-ons)....I have been happy so far.

Quit your jobs, and if you don't have one Alpine something....must climb....torment-forbidden...something...north ridge-baker.....adventure please...Experienced partner

Long moderate(5.8-5.10) rock partner for the next three days. Shoot me PM if you wanna get after some shit Nick

Climb: Old Desolate-South face(hang dog ally) [FA] Date of Climb: 7/24/2004 Trip Report: The black denotes scree sloggin' blue is 3rd class polished andesite that is continous and very solid magenta is 4th class Red is as Alan Kearney would say "5th ish" slab climbing The magenta is 4th to the top with bush pulling I haven't heard or seen any other reports of this huge slab ever being climbed. Anyway you cut it, it is a fun route that allowed me to find deep mental focus. There are no cracks, so it must be free-soloed. I also found that rock shoes didn't work due to grit on the slabs. The approach is either via itsup creek(8 miles), or sunrise(8 miles) to Mystic lake. From Mystic lake this 1300 ft face is facing you(south). From the route views are bountiful to the nearby willis wall and liberty ridge. Also note that there is a more sustained, and probably more technical line to the left(west), that I assume hasn't been done either. Hang Dog Ally Grade: II, low 5th slab, no protection (there are more pics in the gallery of different angles)

Nice TR and Pics! Sounds like blast

Pic in the gallery of the gully to gain the ridge.

I WANT SOME ODWALA DRINKS PLEASE SOMEONE>> BING ME ODWALA DRINKS CAN"T GOTO STORE>>> NEED ODWALA DRINKS HEEEELLLLLP< C MONSTER I DON"T SEE>>>> NEED ODWALA DRINKS

"No really, what time is it" Looked like the pillar was a blast, Greg got a sweet shot of you on route, right about the point you made the pendulum I think. I will put it in the gallery shortly. The north ridge IS "HOT"

Climb: Stuart and ingalls-North Ridge(great gendarme) and S. +E. Ingalls Date of Climb: 7/4/2004 Trip Report: Greg and I awoke Saturday morning to find nothing but ominous clouds ripping over our tarp. That coupled with the foul smell from the near by shitter, and we weren't too stoked. So we went back to sleep and awoke at 930 hours at which time we made our way to Ingalls Peak. We proceeded to simul the south ridge, and relished in the amazing movements the route has to offer. We banged out the east ridge in similar fashion, noting the difference in movements and rock texture between the two ridges. We were back at the tarp by 1400 hours just below Ingalls lake. As night fell we fixated on the clearing skies and the possiblity of a shot on the beloved North Ridge of Stuart. We Ate, We Drank, We released for the goats. Moving at 330 hours Sunday morning due to cold winds, and the promise a nearly full moon had to offer. We reached goat pass after some interesting snow traversing, and refilled the camelback at a water drip just under the Stuart glacier. Interesting snow and rock climbing in the couloir kept things spicy. -note to self- tree sticks aren't good ice axes. As we arived at the bivy ledge we were glad to drop our ice axes, and move onto a more comfortable medium-Rock! We began the ridge at 1030 hours simuling on a 27 meter 7.8mm. It was 37 meter until a core shot on the east ridge of Ingalls left that section off limits. We made great time, with the second carrying the pack of boots, crampons water, gu, and down jackets. We arrived at the great gendarme 3 hours after beginning the ridge proper to be amazed at the beauty, and awe inspiring exposure the gendarme afforded. Greg lead the first pitch making quick time of the triple waved crack. I then stepped up to the off width. I made the traverse, slung up a sketchy rock wedged in the crack and began climbing. I grunted for about 10 feet and placed a 3" BD, only to realize it wasn't engaged-too small. at this point I understood there was no other option but to keep moving to the 4" fixed piece 10 feet above. Into the void of nothingness I crept as the world 2,000 feet below was calling . All that existed was blackness. When I clipped the 4" the world rushed back in, and I finished the pitch uneventfully. Greg finished up the gendarme with style making my sweat look silly. We finished the route about 2.5 hours later and enjoyed a marvolous view of the range. A 5 hour decent filled with glissading on snow, rock and nasty whacking lead us back to the tarp, and later the truck. Gear Notes: Sticks aren't good ice axes 3.5 BD IS worth the weight Approach Notes: Snow traversing to 40 degrees to attain Goat pass steep snow traverse to base of couloir.

Good work you two. Mister Layton giving Mister E an education in the Alpine.

survival of the fittest right