Sol

tyree and i tried the Flavelle-Howe two summers ago. we got about 700 ft up the beast before we realized that we were too far left and bailed off a pin at an obvious bailpoint. sonnie trotter, will stanhope, and someone else freed the edwards spagnut the same year (placing one bolt?). it's compact and dirty and flaky, but is one hell of a line. we often talk about getting back on it but it always seems to fall to the bottom of the list. the bivy ledge high on the route looks quite spectacular and i hope to spend a night up there sometime.

Highly unlikely.

Tyree onsighting P7

It was great hanging with you guys at the diner after your climb. Congrats!

and i'm thankful to have badass photographer/climber friends who risk their necks to snap the money shots!

Trip: Dragontail Pk. - Dragons of Eden IV+ 5.12a FFA Date: 7/22/2009 Trip Report: Obsession can be defined as a compulsive preoccupation with a fixed idea. After climbing Dragons of Eden last summer Jens Holsten and I were so impressed with the climbing and the terrain we became completely obsessed with freeing the route. A September attempt later that summer saw us diverting to Der Sportsmen on the less stormy and warmer south face of Prusik, so we hunkered down for 10 months of daydreaming, training, and preoccupation. We both agreed that there was rarely a day that went by without us thinking about DOE. Finally, a year later, we were wrestling ridiculous loads up to the Lake to put in work and give it a shot (notice no less than 18 beers ready to stash in the creek!): It was a hell of a hump up to the route, and felt a bit awkward as we had ended up on the opposite specturm of our preferred fast and light style. Nonetheless, it felt really good to be embarking on the adventure and we rounded the lake full of optimism and stoke. The first day we hiked in, climbed the first half of the route via any means possible (lots of aid), hauled to the Pteradactyl Bivy Ledge and I scrubbed the Buttterballs to the Gripper 5.11 second pitch, while Jens cleaned up the crux 4th Pitch. Jens getting the junkshow as high as possible up the jingus approach ledges: Aiding the crux 4th Pitch: It felt good to be putting in some work on the route. I transformed the second pitch by trundling two really scary flakes. It's crazy that we had climbed through the flakes twice already yet I was able to trundle each within a matter of seconds. Not only did it make the pitch safer, it revealed some locker jams and good stances, dropping the grade from 11c to 11b. Notice the two flakes in the fingercrack above Jens head in a pic from last year. The wee flake right below the big boy, they are now thankfully gone: We were glad to have the Firstlight for the bivy as the bugs were horrendous! We caught a great sunset and settled in for a night of good rest. I had worked a 14 hour double shift the previous day and was pretty worked. The next morning we slept in and layed around for a while before getting back to work. The Great White Headwall was the dirtiest section of the whole route. I led and cleaned the first 5.10 pitch and Jens linked the next two and scrubbed them. The key to this day was to not get too worn out, yet get enough scrubbing and prep done to be able to free the route the next day. Jens aiding up the second pitch of the Great White Headwall (P6), 5.11a roofs: Jugging the Great White Headwall: On the rap down to the base we took some burns on the crux pitch which is both super pumpy and technical. We both made some progress and tried not to get too worked. The plan was to meet my wife Ginnie Jo, and our friends Keri Carlton, Max Hasson, and Ryan Paulsness at the lake that night. Of the entire experience, this was definetly the best part for me. Chilling with my lady and some great friends on Colchuck Lake, work done, resting up, getting psyched to send. Ginnie and Keri had spent the day preparing an Indian Cuisine Feast! We continued our trend of sleeping in and mid-morning began the hike up to the base of the route. We had stashed all the gear we needed and I became a bit concerned when I was struggling up the pass with merely a windshirt clipped to my belt loop. I was obviously worked and prepared myself to dig deep. Ryan and Max took off up the NE Buttress intent on gaining the top of the Headwall where Max would rappel in and photograph the ascent. When we felt the time was right, we began climbing. The fist pitch takes a hand crack up and left, we did no scrubbing on this pitch, it's a bit dirty and a bit chossy, but warms you up nicely. This deposited you at a belay under a roof where we prepared for the first pitch of business, the amazing splitter finger to handcrack of pitch 2. The pitch begins with a 5.10 traversing face sequence to gain the finger crack, from there sharp and steep finger jams brought me into the meat of the pitch. As I pushed through the crux I became pumped and things began to feel a bit desperate. I was able to stem out left to the arete and cop just enough rest to push on through the finger crux into the slightly less strenuous thin hand section. From here, i twisted and torqued my extra large mitts in the deviously sized crack until finally I reached a good stem rest hollered out in excitement knowing the pitch was in the bag. My hoot gained a quick reply from the ladies who were watching our progress from the pass. A short pitch of 5.8 took us up to the base of the crux pitch where we sat down to recharge and wait for Max to reach us. Shortly thereafter he tossed his rope down the headwall. Jens moved quickly throgh the moderate start to the pitch and gained the top of the pillar where he placed a green brassie and prepared himself to send. He climbed strong and purposefully through the initial boulder problem, solid calculated movements. He got into the crack and was able to place a good green alien and protect himself from cratering into the pillar. As he moved through the next couple of stenuous finger locks he broke a foothold and screamed as he swung away from the crack. Somehow, he held on. He yelled, I yelled, and Jens one-arm campused off a fingerlock back into the crack. I thought for sure he was going to fall, but he held on. Once back in the crack, he pushed on. More screaming, cursing, and cranking continued and soon enough Jens had gained the belay. Seconding, I felt strong moving through the boulder problem, but my strength quickly sapped and i fell from the first few fingerlocks. I lowered off and rested for a second go. I got higher my second try, but screamed in frustration as I again slipped out of the crack. I lowered again and this time took a longer rest. My third try saw me reach even higher but I was spanked, i fell, screamed in frustration, and shortly accepted that I was not going to get this one clean. I had hoped for a clean ascent, but I just didn't have it in me. Jens moving into the business, P4 5.12a: We moved on up to the Pteradactly ledge at the base of the Headwall and rested again. I was worked, and tried to get out of leading the second pitch of the headwall but Jens called me out, saying he thought I could do it and that I should give it a burn. Thanks Jens! He lead the recently transformed first 5.10 pitch up the headwall to a ok stance beneath the series of large roofs that makes up pitch 7 5.11a. We hadn't scrubbed much from this pitch, but it was clean enough to send and I did. Really wild climbing takes you out the roof of the headwall with solid hand cracks, it's hyper-exposed and very out of place in the alpine. Jens followed and we prepared for the final pitch, steep face and crack climbing leads to the top of the Headwall 5.11d. Nearing the big roof on P7, 5.11a: This had been the dirtiest pitch of the route and though Jens had scrubbed what he needed to, it was still quite filthy, compounding the condition of the pitch, was the fact that we hadn't ever really given it a free burn, even on TR. Jens left the belay with his work cut out for him. A non-stop barrage of kitty litter rained down on me as Jens moved up the pitch. The first crux involves sequential deadpoints to positive flakes which Jens got through without too much fuss. He fired in some gear under the crux bulge, and rested up. After a few false-starts he was off, you could tell the climbing was hard, and Jens was going for it. He pushed through the bulge with footholds breaking and flakes flexing, at one point his last piece was a couple bodylengths below him and he was desperatly stabbing to continue. It was quite a show. He pushed on to the top mantled the headwall and DOE was free. We continued as two parties of two up the NE Buttress to the NE Summit. The day had gotten hot and the shade of the east side of the summit was a welcome releif. Two double rope rappels got us down and we began the arduous trudge down Aasgard. Since our ascent two parties of our friends have climbed the route and it has received good reviews, though they both commented about how dirty it still is. One party was able to place a bomber green alien from their tippytoes to protect the moves off the pillar on the crux pitch. This essentially takes the R out of the grade. Also, Blake and Pete H climbed a variation that we pointed out to avoid the crux pitch. It is an obvious crack about 25 ft to the right of the crux pitch and went at 10+. I highly recommend the route and hope people don't let the difficulty of the grade deter them from giving it a burn. With just a few french free moves on a couple pitches, the grade can drop down to 11- or 10+ C1. I think even aid climbers would have a blast spending some time on the route, with only a mandatory move of 10b face on pitch 2. The hauling's clean and the climbing's steep. It is possible to rap the route without too much nonsense (and with two ropes) from the top of The Great White Headwall. Though this is a an option (for slackers) I highly recommend the finish up the NE Buttress which is pretty stress free, and aesthetic, and would earn one a full tick. Feel free to PM with any questions. Hats off again to Wayne and Bob for their impressive 1989 ascent! Free Rack: dbl blue and green aliens, triple yellow alien to #1, with dbl #2's and #3's. Single set of nuts with one green HB Brassie (#5). TOPO Climbing Hot Flash Jen's TR Mucho gracias to Wayne Wallace, Max Hasson, Ryan Paulsness, Ginnie Jo Blue, Keri Carlton, Jim Nelson at Pro Mountain Sports, Adam at Leavenworth Mountain Sports, and Graham Williams at Cilogear (4 cilogear packs were used for this ascent) for their continued help and support. You guys rock! Thanks for the patience in getting this TR written, edited, and refined.

:fahq:Triple Scoop:rocken:

woo-hoo, rad you guys! great pics. that looks like some really good climbing! what a plum to pick on such an accessible face. congrats, can't wait to climb it.

Cool! I bet it's starting to clean up nicely. I went left mid finger crack to fun, clean, run-out face climbing, it's proabaly easier but there is no pro. We also went left afterwards on the slab to the arete rather than the flare corner, proabaly easier as well, but the flare sounds better.

Looks like a great adventure you guys. You should be all warmed up for the Disappearing Floor route on Mt. Hardy.

Yeah that's the deal Rad. Ktaylor and Tyree recently climbed the route and claimed one of the best routes anywhere. Kris was able to get a bomber green alien in from his tiptoes on the pillar, which basically takes the R out of the crux pitch (i'm glad we didn't fix a pin). They were able to onsight a number of pitches, made a proud free-attempt burn, and unlike Blake and Pete felt the grades were spot on for every pitch. Thanks for the patience with the TR everyone, i'll write it early next week.

I disagree with adding bolts to this one, it's an alpine classic as is, that is seeing considerable traffic for such a new climb.

i experienced vertical ice steps on the N ridge a few years back.

My wife ginnie jo and I went and repeated GITM this past week. We had a fabulous time on the route. Ginnie was crushing off the couch for her first alpine route and first multipitch of the year. We did a ton of trundling and placement mining, and I scrubbed the "Monkey Traverse" a bit. As is, the route is great, but there is definetly a direct finish waiting to be done ( it would top out onto this gendarme that looks like the top of the empire state building, the KING KONG finish?). This would allow one to establish a direct rappel route down the face which, though i am usually all about the summit, i think this route would benefit from. The W Ridge just sucks too much, totally detracts from the awesome GITM experience. On the other hand, if you are into it, combined with the W ridge, it's gotta be the longest route on stuart and is still awaiting a 1-day ascent. PM for any info.

your guyz'z hands must be stained from picking that plum!

The tr might take some time. As jens's blog says we made the FFA of Dragons of Eden on July 22nd. The line clocked in at spicy 12- and is the most inspiring chunk of stone i've been on in the Cascades. Photo courtesy of Max Hasson.

Nice! I feel the same way about the trail.

hey rumr, check out the book, One Move Too Many, there's a full chapter on chronic injuries in young climbers. growing up in Michigan, I didn't start climbing until I was 20. I climb with some monkeys that started at a young age and I tell you what these kids have some strong ass fingers. I wish I would have started earlier and been able to capitalize on growth spurts in the development of my climbing muscles and tendons.

awesome! how about a TRL TR?

that descent does blow.

awesome, that route looks like it has some great climbing. pretty rad you guys were able to also get the 2nd ascent of the Gunrunner when you were out there. were you able to free it? another last great problem goes down!

The only reason it was so hard was because of the conditions. Even when Blake and I seconded, the pitch had changed dramaticaly and was good 10+ climbing. there is gear the entire way. Proabaly the most naturally protectable range in the cascades with more than enough bolts to clip down valley. i'm drawing up a topo for some folks who might get after it this weekend.

brings back memories, nice job. what's up with the link-up?

Actually we did debate that, with blake leaning more towards 10+. We figured like most obscure routes (solid gold, der sportsmen, acid baby) whatever grade we gave it would drop after a few ascents as it gets cleaned up. We cleaned enough of the route with three people climbing to definetly make some sections easier. 10+/11-, but maybe not a good 10 for a leader maxing out at the grade. We discussed jens lead of the second pitch in which he cleaned tons of moss and ripped off some big blocks a ways out from his pro. Though only 10+, he said he was fully maxed out, scrapping his way through it, due to the condition of the rock.

cool! fwiw, jens was telling me that dragonscar would make a better finish for that route.