cluck

Try 7+ hours. He fell in around 7:30 AM and we got him out around 3:00 PM. That Mike guy from REI is a stud. He went into the crevasse not long after the accident and helped out until we got Jeff out. Good samaritans ! Nice to know fellow climbers will come to your aid when in need.

Plan on about 5-7 hours up... really speedy folks go faster and slow climbers take longer, but this would be average pace. Also, stay to the left (West) of triangle moraine area up above the top of the Palmer lift. I was climbing with friends Saturday AM and talked to a guy who was heading East towards Wyeast and dropped unroped into a crevasse covered only by a sagging snow bridge. He was only about 50-100' off the boot pack below triangle moraine. His partner threw him a rope and he was able to climb out with 2 tools and one messed up ankle and made his way down the mountain OK. You probably saw all the fuss yesterday about the climber in the same area who fell 50' in a similar slot and had to be rescued. Info and a picture of the hole here: http://www.pmru.org/pressroom/headlines/hoodcrevasse051804.html Bottom line..... there are more man eaters over by the east edge of the snow field (White River side) than are typical. Staying towards the center of the snow field and passing triangle morraine to the West is advised.

Uhhh...Freedom of the Hills.

Yeah, this maneater was right on the shoulder between Triangle Moraine and White River Canyon. I walked right past it - like withing 20 feet - Saturday morning and didn't even notice it. Who's thinking about crevasses near Triangle Morraine anyway? That's why this one is so dangerous. People aren't roped up there and rarely even have their helmets on. There are several crevasses (well, maybe glide cracks technically) opening up right on the western rim of White River Canyon running parallel to the canyon. My advise is to climb west of Triangle moraine. Anyway, here's the goods: The crevasse was about 6 feet wide and about 50 feet deep. It actually went all the way down to the rock below. The guy who fell was beaten up pretty bad and had to be hauled out in a litter and lowered to a snowcat waiting at the Palmer. Many thanks to everyone who helped out on this one! Looks like guy will pull through.

Schweet. Thanks for the update - I'm sure someone will find this info useful.

There's certainly an eternal battle between human-powered vs mechanized backcountry fun. I don't think skiers or mountain bikers annoy sledders & bikers nearly as much as the other way around. Environmental impact aside, having to listen to the roar of two stroke engines all day long just pisses me off. However, even if I don't understand it, I concede that gearheads have the right to play outside just like me. The fact that they are quarantined in designated areas (for the most part) is enough to keep me happy.

There was a sweet BASE jumping film at the Banff Film Festival a few years back (called BaseHeads maybe?) that chronicled a trip to Baffin Island. One of the craziest things was when this guy jumped and there was so much wind blowing up the face that it slowed his descent to the point where he was damn near stopped. Then he adjusted his body position slightly and shot away from the cliff face like a rocket. He was truly flying. I wonder if this was the same film you saw?

tobyt We followed PCT south about a mile or two from the junction of Pamelia Lake approach trail until it came to a gully at the base of the SW ridge. Since everything was still snow covered, we didn't even try to find a climbers trail from the lake and figured cruising a melted out PCT would be faster... and for early season, I'm sure it was. From there we simply went straight up the SW ridge, thrutching our way through knee, thigh and waist deep snow (some as steep as 50-60) to get to the ridge proper. Have to assume that when the snow has retreated, a climbers trail up the the ridge would make this much faster going. We found a great spot for camping at about 6,400-6,500', but have no idea if tent/bivy spots are available when the snow is gone. With good firm snow, the SW ridge would actually be a pretty nice climb. Wading in tree wells and rock moats wasn't so great. Once it has melted, I figure it would be a long, hot and boring scree slog.... but again, like Timmy, this was my 1st experience on Jeff.

Yeah - that's the one! I was able to make the heel hook and move a hand up to the face, but couldn't pull my sorry ass over the lip. Unfortunately, cursing at them didn't make the holds on the face any bigger.

I was up on Fryingpan last June and it was fairly straightforward. There was a good sized bergie along the Whitman crest, a couple small seracs pushed up in the center of the glacier, a few crevasses starting to open up. It seemed that the Southeast half of the glacier was more stable than the northwestern. There are some crevasses in there, but I'm sure you'll be just fine as long as you pay attention to what you're doing.

Isn't there a short 5.10 sport route there called "Rock of Ages" or something like that? It's an overhanging open book crack to a giant bucket that leaves you dangling in mid air. I never could get past that move, but had shitloads of fun flailing away at it again and again.

Sounds like it was an all-around sufferfest on Jeffy this weekend. I was up there with 2 friends climbing (or rather attempting to) the Soutwest Ridge. We wallowed through knee deep slush (none of us are smart enough to buy skis/skins) up to about 6500 feet where we hacked out a campsite. Sunday morning we were climbing by 04:00 but the snow hadn't frozen much and we were still postholing through crust the whole way up. The going was slow and exhausting so we gave up and turned around before the Red Saddle and retreated with our pathetic tails between our legs. On the way down, we passed a pair of climbers in basketball shorts (not the guys that got hurt) that were heading up and wished them good luck. I wonder how far they ended up getting... Anyways, sounds like the conditions were sucky all around. Glad everybody ended up getting off the mountain eventually.

Ryland, Good to see you the other night at the film fest. My guess is that LC would suck major given today's super high temps and photos I saw of numerous crowns and avis on the South side slope below the old chute. With such high temps, particularly after about a foot of mid week snow, LC would probably be a bowling alley for rime funneling on you from everywhere. I've only climbed LC once (this Spring) but from everything I have heard, it is key to get this route when it is cold or suffer the consequences.

Think a Paradise approach would be logical. Road access from White River (the typical approach via Summerland and Fryingpan Glacier) prolly won't be available for a while yet.

I don't think that an accurate statement. I've heard that the slope east of Crater Rock that you have to cross to gain the Hogsback has slid several times in the past. In fact, an aquaintance recently told me of a time when his partner was caught in a slide there a few years back. However, I do think that you should probably be OK this weekend. Hope you get nice weather

Prolly coming. Show only.... wings and beer at Hooters before to scout out some promising couloirs

Here's the skinny on the rescue from PMR: Portland Mountain Rescue

Actually, the two rescued climbers descended the exit gully that ended below the hourglass on LC. It's unclear exactly how they got to the top of the gully, but they did say they followed some tracks. Fortunately, they were relatively healthy and in good spirits when we reached them.

... a few more pics: Looking up at the start of the couloir Looking back down the couloir from about halfway up Nearing the top of the coiloir - this was about as steep as the route gets

Climb: Lane Peak - Zipper - North Face Date of Climb: 4/4/2004 Trip Report: While the Russian hard men and women of Cascadeclimbers were launching themselves at Gib ledges nearby or sking on "nut sacks" up by Shuksan, we enjoyed a climb up Lane Peak in the Tatoosh, via the Zipper. Left leaning couloir - just over 1000' of moderate snow with a beatiful alpine setting. After topping out the Zipper, we bailed going the last couple hundred feet to the summit as the snow in the hot morning sun on the South side was 24 inches of slush and avi tracks from the day before were everywhere. We carefully snuck down the south side and descended via col between Lane and Denman. Gear Notes: Crampons, ax and 2nd tool (didn't need the 2nd tool but it was nice to have), pickets (didn't use 'em)& rope (used it but shouldn't have) Approach Notes: This is what makes the Tatoosh so great IMHO. 2 mile approach yields enjoyable climbing.

BUMMER! Looks like the conditions will hold for the next several days so maybe you'll have better luck if you try again.

Unfortunately, yes. I've even been ticketed (twice) for not having the stupid thing.

Yep lets roll, that was us. As long as it took us to climb was surprised to see you guys on the descent. How come your hike took so long? Did S.L. stop along the way to give everyone his famous tick lecture or something? It was pretty windy up on the ears... Windy up on Table too? Was also wondering where you guys parked? Didn't see enough cars at the lot by the powerlines where I normally go in to handle the Zama herd you were with.

I've been eyeing the north face of Lane Peak in MNRP for a while. Maybe I'll take a stab at that this weekend.

Oh yeah.... the pics I promised: The Bunny: Easy 1st Pitch: Looking up at the belay anchor on top of the bunny's head: Scratching the bunny's ear: Cluck taunting us for taking the easy route: