Dane

"the heel piece that I just received used a harder alloy and different plastic design than previous generations....on first glance they look much better. the plastic piece is designed to pop onto the heel with more accuracy" Only two known failures? The first in public mid Dec 2012. Nice of Joe to give us all a heads up on what to look for. And your second warning Keenan. An anomoly I am sure. Now a new heel piece design from BD. Seems like an over reaction for just two. But a new fix? How can I complain. Hard to keep up on all the problems and the resulting redesigns/fixs being done for so few failures. You seem to imply this is only a larger size boot issue? 46 and larger by your implication? Or just not an issue...until it is an issue? I only ask because you and Joe brought the heel lever failures to the public. Joe ended up dumping his from what he said in his last public accounting. You now seem satisfied with yours. Seems what I get from this is we are back to, "inspect your gear" and some gear just requires you to "inspect it more often". May be the lesson is gear fails, complain on the Internet until the company calls you and fixes their shite. Then go back on the Internet and make nice. Tell us how good the stuff really is once fixed. Side track here..in case there is any misperception. I have no loyaities to any gear manufacture. And no bone to pick personally or professionally with any gear manufacture. Much to the consternation of a few that have commented. I simply keep track. And I rely on my own gear to not fail. Two BD heel levers obviously fail. 2 months later we get 2nd hand word of may be a new design to solve a problem that may be is caused by using bigger boots. Not sure wher that leaves me with my heel levers but OK...I've been warned anyway, thanks to Keenan and Joe. And the Internet. All too familiar territory and scenario imo, if you are keeping track. The flip side? One broken connecting bar on a well worn (worn out!) Grivel G20 comes to light at Grivel. No Internet fuss. Just a simple email to Grivel. Grivel replaces the entire crampon in trade for the pair with one broken connecting bar. Couple of months later totally new design on the connecting bar. Grivel makes a public statement of the improvement and offers free replacements for anyone in the older G20s or G22s. Just to go a little further. I still own BD Sabertooth and Serac crampons. If I could simply trust them to NOT FAIL I would climb everything from hard M to WI6 in Sabers. I like how they climb and have done both in them. But in the current stainless versions, from experience (rememeber I keep track) I simply don't trust them to be reliable. That started with the first failures reported back in the winter of 2010/2011. I continue to read reports of their failures today. Never been any word as to why they fail. May be it is the big boots, soft boots, beginner climbers, walking in them, climbing in them (seriously?) or the other paultry answers BD "officially" pronounced early on. But never a faulty crampon...just more "fixes" never acknowledged, that are still failing on occasion. Now folks (such a gentle term) on the Internet tell me that horizontal crampons are not made for techncal climbing and that big feet cause crampon failures. Which of course defies history and common sense. Or that some of the best and most well respected alpine climbing boots ever designed are NOT appropriate for use with that crampon. Better yet some want to quote the statistical failure rates based on the manufacture's information. If the company had a history of being open and transparent I might take those numbers to heart. Grivel and Petzl for example..seem pretty open about gear failures. Only statistics that concern me are the ones I generate from my boots and my crampons. Those numbers I trust and are the only ones meaningful to me when I clip on my crampons. I may have fallen of a turnip truck. But thankfully I didn't fall off yesterday.

Hey Rafal, yes opening the pick angle on the Fusion did help on pure ice. Never been a M climber so for me 2 degrees means nothing anyway. Funny though that the Fusion with the newest pick now has less angele than a Cobra or a Viper! As I mentioned but didn't really make clear, it was all the other things that really made a difference with a Fusion on pure ice. Not just the drop in pick angle. Opening the pick angle a full 2 degrees tells me again a lot where BD is with the original design. Seems silly to offer it as a mixed pick though. Just my thought but an ice specific pick would seem more appropriate if you drop the angle. Changing the pick angle is so easy to do on BD picks in production. I was looking for a Aermet style pick so durability was what I really wanted from the project. Turns out my picks were more durable than aermet from my testing but I was never happy with the field testers results compared to the cost of manufacture. Really unhappy when I knew the Petzl picks were so good and by comparison so CHEAP! I finally stopped playing at it when I was asked to cut a half dozen Petzl picks to fit BD tools. Problem was solved in my mind by then. I just needed to change handles

I have no problem voiceing an honest opinion based on experience John. Some hard climbs obviously get done on the Fusion. So how bad can it be? Not bad at all having used them myself a good bit. First year of Fusion II production I cut all sorts of picks @ several angles for BD tools to see if how they climb ice couldn't be improved. BTDT already..and as I said there are other more subtle issues involved. Shaving the heads, opening the grip angle, ditich the spike for more rotation and opening the pick angle will help the Fusion climb ice better. The details have all been listed here on CC.com a few years ago. Or you could simply buy a Nomic from the git go as you suggested. If you want to see the actual numbers on pick angle of all the BD technical tools they are listed here: "Black Diamond's technical tools change slightly in the angle of the pick to the shaft in every model, with increases starting with the Reactor @ 28.5, then Viper @ 30.5, Cobra @ 31, Fusion II @ 32 and Fusion I @ 33.5. Thickness of the grip also changes with the steeper tools having slightly smaller grips for more precision. How those numbers compare to Petzl is a guess in many ways. Shafts may be exact copies of each other, and are for angle, but at what angle the picks attach to the shaft is an other matter all together. How the pick design changes between Petzl and Black Diamond is another issue. As I said the differences are subtle." http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/10/ice-tools-part-two.html

I've seen a lot of nice down jackets in the past couple of years. And the industry has a twice yearly "game changer" @ OR. Some real and some imagined. Here is what I have been told. YMMV. I simply don't know enought to comment any further. But call me skyptical. Water proof down goes back to/comes from the fly fishermen. I have not talked with any of the current proponents of water proof down directly. But I did happen upon two of the major manufactures that have decided not to use a treated down in their garments. The reasons as I understood them? Not hard to turn 700 fill down into 1000 fill down by this process. Just hard to keep it 1000 fill down in long term use. Not hard to make water proof down. Just hard to keep it water proof down long term. My opinion? Down garments and bags will last generations and fully functional if properly cared for. The good ones are and have always been expensive. I want mine to last and work as expected from day one till I decide to ditch it. I understand the reasoning behind wanting water proof down. Great idea. And it may well be a game changer. But when two of the best manufactures in down gear currently decide they want to wait...and for what seems like good reasons. I'm hestitant. The flip side to all that? I've had the chance to spend the winter in the newest Patagonia alpine line of clothing. Guide, Mixed Guide, North Wall and Knife Blade/Piton combos. Gotta say I am really impressed with every piece of the line. The designers and the althetes have obviously come together in the alpine line with some amazing synergy. I really am impressed. Even though I think it might better be described as a dh ski line as easily as a "alpine" implied climbing line. It works for both and looks pretty natty All of which bodes well imo for the new down. Just not convinced yet.

"I'm told it sounds like the new ice pick might even the playing field between the nomic and the fusion." Ha, ha, that is a good one. Make a poor copy and not understand the nuances of design and you get..well you get a Green Fusion. It is going to take a lot more than 2 degrees less pick angle (back to almost the Cobra angle now with the new pick) to put the Fusion on an even playing field with a Nomic. It is a bit longer list than just pick angle.

The reviews are serious... My comments on how independant reviews are finanaced are not

If you have to ask? But there are two choices. Most independant gear reviewers will have both and a daddy in the oil business :-)

48? Yes. But why do I have to check for you? Go to the scarpa link at the end of the review and add a pair to your want list. I ask nicely and have a Black Card. Kinda like asking nicely with a loaded gun...people seem to pay more attention :-)

Biggest change in boots I have seen in several decades. Full review in the link to Cold Thistle. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/the-scarpa-rebels-part-one-ultra.html

Doing the counter clock wise circle tomorrow, coming down Byrant coulior. Leaving the upper lot at 8am. Snow should be good if anyone else is interested.

Interesting follow up to Twight's original comment. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/epictv-interviews-ueli-steck-on.html

Nice trip guys! I had complete distal detaches on both right and left, and surgery on both in the last couple of years. PM me if you have any questions. The Surgeon is really, really important. Neil Roberts locally is the guy you want. Hopefully you have already doen this. But, sooner the better, on the surgery if they haven't told you that yet.

I was only refering to the TLT 5 shells. As an example the Dynafit DyNA shells break on the half size. So in that boot a 26.5 and a 27 are the same shells. No company is immune. Best imo to take a close look at and then pay attention to the Dynafit sizing chart and the distinct differences in sizing there. http://media.dynafit.com/PDF/Conversion_Chart_Boots.pdf You realise of course it is unlikely that your bindings will fit both a Zuess and a properly fit TLT? But You might get lucky! For the other manufactures (which are all some what different in sizing) you are on your own for good fit reference data. Sole length, actual foot size and the the inner boot volume size stamped on the inner boot has little to do with actual fit. Nice starting reference but not much else if you are making a switch from one boot to the next..even with in the same brand. As an example I wear different over all boot sole length and boot size in the Dynafit DyNA 309mm/29.5, the Zero 316mm/28 and the TLT 317/29 and a different size yet in the BD Prime.

Like almost any modern ski boot, you buy the correct size and then have them professionally fit. As I said the TLT 5 shells are exactly the same size between the Mtn and the P. If you are a full size as a 27/28/29 the liner will be really tight as the shells only come in full sizes. The foam liners on the P is pre molded for length (not fit) to allow the bigger 1/2 sizes. But the shell of say a 28 and a 28.5 are the same shell.

MY opinion, no, the Nilas is not an advance in lwt gear. Nice jacket none the less. Pricey at $550 in the newest dry down version by comparison. The Mont-Bell Mirage? That is an advancement imo and "only" $350. More here on the numbers: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/how-i-measure-insulated-down-jackets.html

Climbing with a Lynx on a TLT are you? Lynx is a nice crampon but not my favorite on ski boots.

That is not correct. All the TLT 5s models use the same sizing and molds on the shells. Only the material in the upper cuff is different. Sizing is not. Not even close to the EVO shell in size or how narrow it is. EVO is a LOT more narrow and a shorter boot internally as well. The inner boot on the TLT 5 P and TLT Mountain TF (is much thinner and fully foam) and needs to be heat molded or it will never fit properly. The Mountain TFX ]/b] liner is a more traditional liner, colder in use and easier to fit most people without molding. The TFX is the liner supplied with the TLT 5 Mountiain sold in in North America. Anyone in sales that doesn't know that and make an effort to expalain it correctly isn't doing anyone any favors. At the price points of these boots you would think/hope it general knowledge by now.

As of last week you could easily walk into the moat and then down to the right and just as easily *walk* out to get established on the face proper. Tool wasn't even needed. Typically what is the crux of the climb, seems to be gone at the moment. I've done it a couple of times in the last few weeks and that is how I found it. 'shrund is down and to my left. Normal entry for me is 1/2 dozen steps higher and to the left than where the picture is taken. Easy as it will ever get I suspect. It is pretty obvious if you look around once you are there. But you can kinda see the shrund below me in this picture and where I entered and walked out as well. Either way the route has been in great conditon with good snice in the corner and higher. Lots of opportunity to place ice gear if required. Conditions on the 1st pitch recently. My apologies for going off topic, but since I was asked: "Yes, it is true, I am risking life and limb betting on not having another BD stainless failure while soloing. I check them for cracks constantly and I've pulled the bot plates so I can do that easier." I am now back climbing on Grivel G20s or G22s with my TLTs. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/grivel-crampons-respect-is-due.html

Make sure you have the right shell size. My Zero 4s are a full shell size smaller than my TlT 5s. I bought what fit and then found out I was just lucky and hit the right shell size (BSL). I am a 28 in the Zero 4 Carbon and a 29 in the TlT. I climb and ski in my TLT5s and they work fine. This is the shell chart..worth looking at in detail. Then go by your gut not the number on your boot. Your feet will be happier. http://media.dynafit.com/PDF/Conversion_Chart_Boots.pdf

Naw, no such thing Keen. Except, except for may be that one time in Kenya, where I was wrestling Ubangi warriors, and did a few one arm pull ups with three guys hanging off my swami...likely the only WI8* in exsistance. WI7 is casual with only one extra guy hanging on.

It is a great book for what you are asking. I am working on a written review at the moment. But certainly worth the purchase price imo. http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/Snow-Travel-P995.aspx

Do these Cascade, Professors, Louise and Weeping Wall (Last) if you have time.

Would seem easier said than done...any takers onn the email option? If so send me a PM.

Seems we are clueless on posting video. Anyone one with the knowledge and ability willing to post the video here if I email to you? thanks!

Come on Grant you know me better than that. I didn't think you were out of line or I would have said so. I think the discussion is good, interesting as well. And as I said, I had the same discussion with Craig before I published his TR. Likely the hardest thing I have climbed is HFA in Hyalite. Not because it was "hard" like CC (it isn't) but because there wasn't a lot of ice on the first bit when I was there. But at least when I was on it, the bottom was ice climbing. Fat maybe by comparison. This while clipping bolts on that lower bit. Once on the solid ice higher up the climbing was casual by comparison. So I was judging only by Jess and Scott's pictures of Chucky. Arm chair QB for sure. And knowing just how bad the ice conditions down here can be in comparison to Canada. Our shite has a nasty habit of falling down! The real reason I was a bit awe struck about this climb (which doesn't happen often) was a short video Craig sent me. May be he can post it here. I can't figure out how to do it. I think it is worth watching for a better perspective of this climb. I do agree that 5+ is not 6 ice. But what I might think is 6 you might call 5+. -/+ seems a petty arguement. Ice can and does change literally over night in Canada. Here what was up in the morning may be gone by the late afternoon same day. Easily. Most importantly IMO anyway, pro never adds anything to the grade, just the game. Trad takes a lot more effort mentally and physically than clipping a bolt and adds to the climb. But not the grade generally. Bit of fudge factor there though on the effort required to place the gear and how it effects the rest of the climb. I'll offer this..on trad lines a strong head and run out might actually be easier physically and technically (moving around on shitty stances to palce gear) than a weaker head placing more pro in similar circumstances. At least in my circles not that many guys climbing anywhere near this hard. Some strong guys out there. But being physically strong and having the head to run out .11+ trad lines with bad pro (whitness Jess ripping the pin attempting a 2nd) makes the climbers with both head and heart) few and very far between. Even fewer in crampons. I never have and am never likely to. So this is really just all speculation on my part as to how hard all this is. Craig can you whip up that video of Jess on rappel?