hanman

Nice job- scenic indeed Cheers MH

Here are few more photos from Stephen's pix. Did anyone get on this thing over the weekend?

Lake 22 is situated in a steep cirque on a prominent East flank of Mt Pilchuck. 15 miles or so out of Granite Falls

Sorry for the typo- Grade IV for sure. Perhaps a moderator could change the title since the time has passed for me to edit... Flame Lords grant me peace! Cheers, MH

Bigger Pix in gallery, and I should add that nearly every stick was solid- excellent route and conditions. Also bring 3-4 pickets. Thanks Trogdor- MH

Climb: Lake 22 Headwall-NW Chutes, IV, AI4, 13 P Date of Climb: 2/12/2006 Trip Report: Ok- Here goes: 11 years, including 6 attempts of this north facing 2300 foot wall has at last been completed. This is perhaps a new route, one that has held our thoughts and aspirations since a recon hike in 1995. The typical weather patterns of low elevation Puget Sound basin have generally dictated poor unconsolidated snow and ice in recent years. In 2005, however, we noticed a trend towards upper-level inversions, which (presumably) are responsible for the unlikely abundance of Snoqualmie and Lennox Mtn fun stuff. Here is the overview from Lake 22. Leaving the trailhead @ 3 am, we were at the base of route and geared up at 6 am. P1- screws, pickets, veggies, tree belay Pitch 2 was continuation of ramp @ approx.AI 2, with roots, screws, and lousy pickets for pro, tree belay Stephen ready for P3- kind of scary traverse over steep terrain- we have been here before. Ice was noticably thinner than 2003. Stubbies, pickets, trees, hope..., tree belay Sunrise at last... P3 Glacier Peak and Big Four Two simulclimbed steep snow rope lengths followed by an AI3-4 pitch led to a semi-hanging tree belay on an exposed rib. Screws, pickets Stephen had the crux pitch with bulging AI4 for 30M. Screws, pickets to tree belay Lake 22 far below Three Fingers/Liberty Bell group: Gully steepens and constricts. Pickets, simulclimb... Stephen seconds P10- 2 small ice crystal avy's from the sunny summit made for painful reminder of location-Pickets, LA's KB's, cams. KB/LA belay Stephen leads the "Gentlemen's Highway" where we thought the climb ended at the ridge. HaHa- two more pitches to go- pickets, tree belay Top out @ 4:30 pm- Nice views of Rainier, Pilchuck, Vesper, and Index Mt Pilchuck view to west We thought about rappelling the route, then finally decided on the "walkoff' as described in the Kloke Winter 1 Day Ascents. Due to relatively large cornices on the ridge to the East, we were continually cliffed, and ended up rapping in the dark to the Hemple Lake basin. From the basin we had to ascend steep loose snow (1000 ft) to the saddle that overlooks Lake 22 to the north. Descent to the lake was not particularly straightforward in the dark, and required several more sleepy raps. Overall, the descent we took from the climb's summit entailed approx. 2 miles of corniced ridge hiking, 7 hours, 15 headlamp driven 35M rappels, and many vertical to overhanging ravines and gullies. Needless to say, we would strongly recommend descending the route, bringing an extra zip line, bail web, pins, and extra headlamp batteries to get off this "low elevation sub summit". I returned home almost exactly 24 hours from the previous day's departure. Yes- being the good employee, I slept a couple hours and drove to work a full day. Good weather this weekend- Go get it!! Gear Notes: 70M rope, 10-12 screws, screamers, 2 kb's, 2 La's, #1&2 Camalot, 1 set nuts, lotza slings, rap gear Approach Notes: Lake 22 trailhed to lake=2.8 miles, cross lake and follow WSW (.5 mile)to base of climb (left of major gully separating towers from main wall) Begin at rocky right trending ramps. Descend route or be prepared for a very long ridge traverse

Sorry-no pix. I wished I would have brought our kayaks as well, but they probably would not have weathered the trip over.

Climb: Banks Lake-Several @ The Castle (?) Date of Climb: 2/5/2006 Trip Report: Friend Stephen and I escaped the seemingly terminal wet zone for some E WA sunshine this weekend. Without much route info, we scoped out many prospective fun climbs in the area on Sat., and returned the next day when the lovely 50 mph winds had a chance to calm. We climbed several south and west facing routes, some old some new, and all on quite nice rosy granite. It was a very scenic diversion from the gloom. I would like to encourage the people putting up routes here to think about using standard gear for fixed belays/rap points however. Many shiny new fixed cold shuts (mostly unwelded open) adorn the cliffs, and have been long known by climbers, riggers and the like to be a generally untrustworthy and short lasting option for fixed gear. Unfortunately, availability of alternative gear is sometimes lacking in remote areas. If anyone who FA's out there posts here, please PM me- I would like to donate hangers, galv.chain, and screwlinks to help out. Great time- Thanks! Gear Notes: Draws, gear to 3"

Anyone know if the pass gate for Static is currently open? Thanks, MH

Actually, MattP and I found a planned bivy in January quite scenic. Unplanned...brrrrrr.... For a rapid descent from the SUMMIT I would suggest the west slabs to Westward Ho line. 5 thirty meter raps with fixed anchors/chains, followed by 5 50 M raps (down Westward Ho) to the start of the butress. I have descended this route recently in 50 minutes (summit to butress toe). MH

Wow- did you use the flake that is leaning against the wall on the Blueberry Terrace, or something on the summit proper? Either way, good job getting down safely - quite a schwack on both flanks of the G Sidewalk. MH

This climb was well worth the approach. It has a unique "thread the towers" section midway that was exceptional, but a bit loose. Trundling was performed where needed. It's pretty safe now. Thanks Dan J- great fun! MH

Last Saturday, friend Packard and I climbed the Howling Ridge of Wolf Peak. This peak is located between Sperry and Vesper. We approached via Headlee Pass, and ascended notch between Wolf and Sperry, above a small lake. At the saddle, we headed west, a few hundred feet towards Wolf. A series of 3 50M raps gained the glacier scoured basin floor. A short hike to the base of the curved obvious ridge passed a small ice remnant. Nine pitches of excellent exposed ridge climbing were fairly straightforward and fun. We tried to stay as near to the crest as possible, and encountered an interesting slightly overhanging 5.8+ or 5.9 hand crack at P3. At some points, the ridge narrowed to 12" or so, similar to East Ridge Direct on Forbidden. Go get it before the snow flies... Med rack to 3", slings, 50 M ropes, Descent is an easy walkoff to lake basin. A fine day in the hills. Thanks Stephen! No pics- each of two dolts forgot each of two cameras- MH

Anyone up for any and all things in the Clear Creek? I am back from AK and have a serious hankering for autumnal slabbage patches. MH

Anyone been up on the NE corner this summer? If so- belay anchors in good shape? Thoughts on 1 day or 2 for a party of three (lack of water on route)?? Hoping for next weekend... Thanks in advance MH

Here's a couple more photos- Pitch 3 view down: Pitch 12 -Big Four trail in the valley:

John- you are so right about the magnitude of the complete traverse to the BF summit- from the top of the first tower, it appears to go on forever. Anyone here ever done the Miller/Guydelkon route to the summit via the towers? Seems like quite an undertaking... MH

This rock is quite unique as far as any I've seen around here. While quite steep, the pebbles are amazingly solid in the sandstone matrix. Definitely a place for "thoughtful progression". The crack systems are really fun too! MH

Climb: Big Four-Direct Tower Route Date of Climb: 7/30/2005 Trip Report: For about a decade, I have wondered what the most prominent Big Four Tower would be like to climb. During a bit of thrashing about looking for Ron Miller's 1971 line up the feature, I was drawn to a steep slab on the north face. Only a few years ago, it seemed to be wet almost all summer. Due to the last parched few years, however, the place dries out after a few hot days. In May 2004, Stephen Packard, James Lescantz, and I started what would become many trips up this fine wall. Last weekend, myself and Eric Gamage topped out after dragging a bivy to 1/2 way the previous day. Gear should include tiny widgets to 4", and many extendable slings. When dry enough to climb, there is no water on the route. As the lower portion of this face is in the shade most of the day, it is perfect for those days where Darrington or Static Point are entirely too warm. Generally, the climbing is on extremely hard conglomerate, with excellent face climbing in equal ratio to sinker hand/fist cracks. Overall, 2500 feet of climbing is required to reach the summit of the tower. As in other areas of Big Four, brush in gullies can be abundant and "vigorous". In the middle of the tower there is perhaps 300 feet of hellwhacking to overcome. The route likely shares upper pitches with the Miller/Guydelkon 1971 route. Approach via Ice Caves Trail, contouring east until reaching a chasm seperating the first and second towers. Go down hill about 200 feet, and look to access a bench below obvious steep slabs above. 200 feet of 4th class zigzags gains the start of the first pitch. Pitch 1: Somewhat flared but fun chimney/fist crack. 150', 5.8, gear to 4". Nice belay ledge. Pitch 2: Steep and grooved headwall with consistent 5.8+ moves for nearly 155', draws. Semi hanging belay @ 2 bolts. Pitch 3: More steep slab with interesting huecos and strangeness @ 5.9+ or .10a, 150', small tcu's + pinky tricam+ draws. Belay at good ledge. Pitch 4: Work up and right over a bulging slab with bolts (5.7). Runout 5.5 leads to a cedar tree ledge at the base of a thin fingers dihedral. #2 LoweBall protects the initial moves well. 70'. Pitch 5: Nice 5.8 dihedral steps right to the arete after crack runs out. Bolts and thin gear lead to a prominent OW pillar crack (5.7+). Belay @ 2 bolt station on sloping ledge. 145', gear to 4". Pitch 6: Amazing 5.8 hand crack for 75 feet. Belay @ large cedar with slings. Pitch 7: 4th class up and left through blueberries to reach an easy chimney notch. Belay at tree with slings. This is "1 acre ledge". Move belay up and right (100') to a cave. It is advisable to rope packs up here, rather than spelunking. Once through the cave, go up the vegetated, yet delightful gully (3rd/4th) ~ 300 feet. Pitch 8:Blocky face and chimney climbing accesses the spacious ledge below the upper slabs (5.7). 4" gear helpful. Pitch 9: A few unprotected face moves reach another great handcrack. Move left to a 2 bolt belay when crack runs out. 150' Pitch 10: Staying near crest, low to mid 5th arete is climbed to a cedar bush with slings some 150' out. Pitch 11: Working right, follow features to a unique 5.4 wide crack complete with chockstones. Step left, and over small roof to belay at a nice ledge with cedar. 150' Pitch 12: Follow white slabs within 30 feet of chasm view. Belay at small tree with slings 150' up. Hike up into the fields, or step left for great views of Sloan Peak. Scrable for about 10 minutes, using ramps to access the area below the summit spire. Pitch 13: On the west face of the spire is an excellent and somewhat hidden 5.8 hand crack. Rap sling in place. Descend the route. Slings/anchors in place. Cheers, Mark Hanna Gear Notes: Med to large rack to 4", many extendable slings, lotza H20 Approach Notes: ce Caves Trail-Mountain Loop Hwy

The Granite Sidewalk on Blueberry Hill comes to mind. Good pools and views as one moves upwards. The drive is a bit further if you are a Seattle dweller, however. The south face of Bald Mtn (access from Deer Creek Road/Mtn Loop) provides a fun 4th/low 5th class solo on nice granite features. Expect ~ 15 minutes of brush (builds mental strength).

I must say- the combination of dehydration and 20 year old tattered perlon must have resulted in this most horrid of displays. My sincere apologies to anyone having taken offense... Really fine day on the Hill however. While visiting the summit, be sure to hike along the North Ridge. The views of the Dome, and the exposure of Witch Dr Wall are exceptional. It sure is nice to have DTown access fixed! MH

I have some 3/8" KMIII from New England Ropes that has fared well for hauling/working/general abuse. It has stayed fairly supple in the process, unlike most BlueWater static lines I have had. I also use a Ushba Hogwaller rather than the more aggressive toothed wallhauler/traxion devices.

A well tied beer knot in nylon is fairly low profile, and nearly as strong as a sewn sling. Beer is good.

87 Jimmy for sale. 305 V8 fuel injected. Strong mountain truck with $500 worth of brand new tires, heavy duty tire chains, high lift jack and stout towing hitch. This truck goes anywhere climbing happens. Manual 4 speed w/granny gear. This has been my Darrington ride for ~ 5 years through thick and thin, but I need to sell to get a commuter. Attached photo is during winter access of Clear Creek Road in 3.5 feet of snow. Yes- it goes. 425-894-5415 cell or PM me

Here's a thought- perhaps those individuals that have adequate rope access experience and the willingness to assist in helping Fido could simply contact local management agencies to give contact info in case of such a scenario. A small but dedicated and available group may fill the needed gap. In light of current liability insurance requirements for organizations and public perception of undue risk, a helping hand may be in order. In addition, I think climbers as a group can earn some often needed "karma points" with land use managers in general. Count me in PS: I like dogs