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Everything posted by kevinoregon

  1. Found at Pete's Pile

    I found something at Pete's on the 10th I think. If you lost something and can identify... email me at kevinoregon12@gmail.com Kevin
  2. Outer Space Lasts Friday

    I met Peter and Lauren at the base of Outer Space last week and we did not all get to the top til 8.30p. I just wanted to say we made it down OK. If you added some cairns, thanks. I was never hurting for direction.
  3. Hello all. It has been some time since I have graced these halls. This is a big year for me. I am turning 50 next month and this year also marks half my life as a climber, so I have been planning the Big Five Oh Birthday Extravaganza since last year. I will be working only 6 days in July and climbing the rest of the time. First stop will be Touloume from 6/28 - 7/6. Fairview Dome is first on the list with Regular Route and Lucky Streaks and probably Great Pumpkin. Lots of others on the list with a full week of climbing. The second stop is the one I am having troubles with. I can travel after work on Tuesday, but need to be back early Saturday for my birthday party. I was planning on Donner Pass, but the flights do not fit my schedule so I am looking for options and partners for 3 solid days of climbing. Oh, and it needs to be granite and preferrably long. I will drive almost anywhere and will be departing out of pdx. A few destinations I could think of include Green Giant Buttress, Static Point and even though the climbs are short, City of Rock. I would be open to other options if you have a plan. Any one interested, just let me know. The 15th - 20th and 23rd - 27th will likely be in WA climbing with my son who has just moved back here from GA, but I may head back to the high sierras too. The destination for 29th - 3rd will be Squamish with Angel Crest on my list.
  4. Dramatic 4 am rope solo rescue in Vegas

    Thanks Joe. The world can use all of the decent human beings it can get.
  5. PDX Holiday Pub Club

    I'm up for it.
  6. I am looking for Leavenworth

    Nothing funner than an adulttreehouse.
  7. Blown Out - Beacon

    I just did Blown Out and Blown Out Direct yesterday. It seems to me that Blown Out Direct has a couple moves that are technically harder than any of the moves on Blown Out. I didn't come across any moves on Blown Out I thought were 10a. Opinions?
  8. Blown Out - Beacon

    I will definitely be giving it a run.
  9. PDX Friday

    I am off tomorrow and may not have anyone to climb with. Anyone else off?
  10. PDX Friday

    Turns out that is where I am heading, so see you out there.
  11. road trip music

    Reggae is all you need. Lots of reggae.
  12. Beacon trail closed

    Even with nobody up there we still amost were hit by falling rock. One missed my partner by only 4'. Must have been Ivan above us.
  13. beacon sunday

    Ivan right before he jumped.
  14. First Roped Climb?

    Cresent Crack, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah 24 years ago.
  15. Oh the rainy weekends

    No climbing for me this last weekend. rain saturday, no one to climb with for the few hours of sunshine on sunday. so now I am left thinking about the weekend before's climbing. Nothing great, just a 10 pitch day at broughton. Edges and Ledges as a warmup. all 3 pitches of gandalf's grip. Don't really like counting that last pitch, but it does need to be all set up so it gets counted. Thats 4. Thai Stick and the first pitch of redeye as 1 pitch for #5. classic for 6. sheer energy and the second pitch of sheer stress for 7 & 8. I had never done the second pitch of sheer stress, so that was cool. no friction and shoot from the hip finished the day. it was time to go, so no time for hard body. I had been looking forward to it all day too.
  16. MADE IN CHINA! BD Cams

    I was hoping this stupid lurker thing would go away when I hit 50. what's a guy to do?
  17. MADE IN CHINA! BD Cams

    so here it is, post #50 and it seems to be buried at the bottom of some long post we are tired of.
  18. Nice slide show. I was there last year, but did not get near the climbing in that you did. I did recognize a couple of the routes you did though.
  19. dangerous rock newbies

    blah blah blah. take 'im out.
  20. Seattle area pub club

    how was the show, how was the beers. lets hear a report.
  21. What Do you Want to See?

    Do you think we ask for too much?
  22. Connecting to the rock

    Should always. Never know when the slimeball won't show or can't go.
  23. No! The Madrone Wall is NOT OPEN!

    Has a timeline been devoloped?
  24. Fear of Falling

    So many times I see good climbers who will continually drop it down a few grades before they will lead trad. Falling on a bolt is one thing, but falling on a chunk of steel and cable stuck in a crack is quite another. How do you know if it will really hold unless you fall on it? If you are just starting to lead, even the thought of falling on a bolt can paralyze you with fear. How do we get over it? I remember my battle with the fear all those years ago. The skin scraped off my body as I used it to try to slow my decent. Hanging on to an edge until my fingers just couldn't hold on any more. The paralyzing fear. I know how I got over it. I fell. I always pushed my limits, so fell a lot. Now I don't even worry about it. Until last year, I had not taken a long fall on gear for at least 12 years and what did I do when I got my hands all tied up and out of sequence? Just let go and pushed off with my last piece at least 15 feet below me. So, here are a few tips that I picked up along the way: 1. Climb with someone experienced to check your placements. Good placements are not only about the chock in the crack. It is also about where the chock is. What is below you if you do fall? How far to your next stance? Put in two pieces if you can see a long runout through a crux section. 2. Maybe try some aid climbing to gain experience and confidence 3. Once you know you are in the habit of good placements, push your limits. You will never get over the fear of falling unless you fall and you will never fall if you always drop it down a few grades. Lets hear some other stories about the battle with the mind.
  25. Fear of Falling

    Check again. I said I have not taken a long fall on gear in that long. Oh I have fallen though.