cartman

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Thanks to the spray clowns for reminding me why I almost never post to this site. Well done. Back to your sandboxes now.

Any plunge can be a self-belay if it's helping to prevent a fall.

It was this article that prompted my original post. Jim leaves plenty of room to go shorter or longer; my point is that longer is usually going to work better for beginners, and for many on moderate terrain. As far as using an ice ax as a walking stick, suppose I'd have to show the technique to explain what I mean by that. I use it as a cane while self-belaying at the same time when moving.

I disagree, especially re: glaciers. On glaciers they are both climbing and walking aids, and most people will have an ax in hand regardless of the slope angle for arresting in case of a crevasse fall. Therefore, when walking on moderately angled glacier slopes the ax can be used to push off (after a proper plunge for self-belay) for the reasons I stated above. I've used the one ax (70cm)/one pole method myself to good effect. If doing this on exposed terrain, trick is to have the pole out of the way if needing to arrest; one must be prepared to sacrifice the pole in this case, and the pole leash should never be used if an arrest could be necessary as the pole could get in the way of an immediate arrest. As could one's instincts to hold onto the pole, for that matter. On harder terrain or short/catastrophic runouts, the poles get put away, but at times I'll use the technique with long runouts. Good judgment is crucial if using this technique.

It is customary to recommend an ice ax length that is 1-2" above the ground when held loosely in the hand. I think this is too short. Why? The majority of travel on glaciers and other terrain when holding an ice ax will be on relatively low-angle slopes. In this terrain, an ice ax is there to provide security and to prevent a fall if you need to arrest. The best way to prevent a fall is good technique and staying in balance. A short ax plunged into snow will force the climber out of balance by leaning too far to the side and forward on low-angle slopes. The softer the snow, the deeper the ax is plunged and the farther the climber will have to lean over. A longer ax helps the climber to stay more upright. The ax is also used as a cane to help with balance and to push off when stepping (similar to using a trekking pole), utilizing the upper body and conserving energy use by the legs. When leaning too far, it is far more energy-wasting to come out of the step, and does not allow the climber to use the rest step with maximum efficiency. I have seen climbers exhaust themselves when using a too-short ax in sloppy snow conditions. I am 5'11" and started out, before I had any real idea what I was doing, with an 85cm ax and made even this work on moderate slopes. I've been using 70cm axes for years now and will not use a shorter ax for the vast majority of routes. The tip of a 70 touches the ground when held loosely in my hand. A shorter tool can, but not always, provide better security when going up or traversing steep routes, especially on firm snow. However, not being an extreme climber these are a small minority of the slopes I travel, so the 70cm ax suits me best. Each climber will learn his/her preference; but for beginning climbers who will be traveling on moderate slopes to start, I would recommend a longer ax as their first.

Terrific pics, Jason. This is a great but not often traveled area beyond Little Devil--dicey and I did the traverse over to Big last year: http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7984640&highlight=devils+traverse One of my favorite trips in recent years.

I'm available. What did you have in mind?

Partner found.

Looking for a climbing or scrambling partner for a day trip Wed. More interested in a mellow climb or a scramble; not interested in cragging. One exception would be to climb the Triad (b/n Hidden Lake and Eldorado Peaks); an off-trail route through the trees up the south slope to the notch b/n middle and east peaks--one 5th class pitch from there according to Roper. Need to ford the N. Fork Cascade River at the start. Long day, requires very early start or car camp Tues night. PM if interested.

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Looking for partner(s) for a trip, climb or scramble any or all of the above days. PM if interested.

Dark Pk is a beautiful and worthy trip. People only gripe about it before going there. And it has one of the better waterfalls in the range draining the upper basin. Your timing will be good if you have decent weather. We did it third week of June 2006 and were just a bit late re: the alder. Another party did it first week of June and were able to simple walk on snow on the right side of Swamp Creek all the way to the lower basin. We had to make a dangerous log crossing (good luck finding it) and do some bashing, but still not that bad, on the left side of the creek to get to the lower basin. From the lower basin, take a shallow gully on climber's left (hidden until well into the basin), then steep woods to reach the upper basin. Don't go up any of those slabs or do any of those spicy routes to the right of the waterfall. From the upper basin climb the right side of the glacier to the skyline then simply turn left to scramble the Class 2/3 rock to the summit. As long as you stay on route the only place you'll need a rope is for the glacier. Spectacular view of the Company Glacier on Bonanza; this alone makes the trip worthwhile. Three day trip with the ferry/shuttle travel. You won't have time to do another peak. Bonanza is a far more difficult trip requiring multiple double-rope rappels to downclimb safely, more routefinding, and a lot of experience scrambling hard, poor rock.

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I'm definitely looking to get out, have several ideas. Have lots of experience in the Cascades. Send me an email at mahijiru@yahoo.com, looking to have something planned by late afternoon.

Are you locked in to that particular destination? I'm looking for a 2-day trip as well, but was in Colonial Basin a month ago, would like to do a different trip. Interested?

Reports are that it is scary-assed loose fourth class with a few class 5 moves thrown in to make it even spicier. Depends on route taken. From Tom Sjolseth's TR: "There is a reason Agnes Mountain isn't often climbed. Not only is the approach fairly long, the climbing itself is steep, unprotectable, and treacherous. The rock is very friable. Those who have climbed Boston Peak can appreciate my assertion that the rock on Agnes is worse." http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7961602&highlight=agnes

Absolutely amazing. Thanks for the very inspiring TR and great pics. You said you wanted to "discover" the route, sounds like you got your wish, and fine weather too. Fay is frickin' awesome. Congrats to you both. Seems like a mile or two is added to Big Beaver every year...

Trip: Buckner, Horseshoe - SW Slope Date: 7/18/2009 Trip Report: I recruited Oyvind, Tobae and Jon K. to give these two peaks a go via Sahale Arm/Horseshoe Basin. Several guide books give the primary approach as the Stehekin Valley Trail then up into the basin, but the approach via the arm is probably easier routefinding and less problematic. We continued up the Arm in clear blue skies to one of the higher camps. On the way I came upon two rangers who said "There's the permit holder" and asked to see the permit. So make sure you get a permit, as on the way down the next day we came upon a fellow who had been evicted from Pelton Basin for not having one. The route down is quite easy to find. Go east from the higher camps at 7600' ~100-200' down the moderately steep snow slope to the top of the SE-trending rib. Scramble the rib to ~6500', the last bit being a high class 3 downclimb to the top of the steep snow gully which leads left and down 100' into Horseshoe Basin. An alternative way down would be to go right from here down a steep grass/heather slope (don't slip) to a class 3 ledge which wraps left around the end of the rib past some old mining debris directly into the basin. We went down the gully and up the ledge on the return. We crossed the basin at ~6500' using a good ledge system mostly on snow, gradually rising to a grassy promontory midway across. This could also be a good camp site if you wanted to carry all your gear down. Here we discussed our next move. The obvious entry between the buttresses to gain Buckner's SW Slope looked steep and slick, and we weren't particularly keen on going up it and the long slope above let alone back down that way considering it would be a long way above a bad runout. We remembered that a previous trip had gone up a narrower gully above the higher buttress and Oyvind was pretty sure it would go, so he led up to it. It turned out to be an excellent choice; not long, steep but reasonable, leading to a better route up the slope to a pinnacle. Here we stashed our crampons and booted up to the loose summit rocks and onto the East Ridge, with a short scramble to the summit. On to Horseshoe. We retraced our route down to the bottom of the gully--which was steep enough to downclimb facing in, but the snow was good--where we could take a nice direct traverse to the base of Horseshoe's summit pyramid. A short bit up snow gained the SW Ridge. We scramble up into a large gully on the left side of the face to the prominent notch on Horseshoe's east side. Here the route goes left across a narrow ledge up to the cleft just below the summit. The perspective from the notch makes it look like you would have to go right from the cleft to reach the summit, but actually the summit is just to the left from the cleft. Oyvind led across the ledge, simply threaded the rope through the plentiful rappel slings, then recrossed the ledge to the belay point. No pro needed. Then he and Roald switched places, and Oyvind belayed each of us there and back. The ledge is narrow and a bit awkward to cross, but the pull-up move over the cleft is a fun exposed gymnastic move, slightly overhanging with bomber handholds. After drying out and signing the register, we downclimbed to our packs and down into the basin a fair ways on talus, then good snow to the rib. Oyvind had found the ledge on the way in, and it turned out to be an easier way up than upclimbing the steep gully would have been. Then up the rib and back to camp. The wind had been blowing all day, but now it picked up considerably as a local cloud front moved overhead. The wind was strong enough to tear up the dark gray clouds passing over before they could coalesce long enough to drop any precip, but also made it rather cold at camp. So we all agreed to pack up and head out. Sahale Arm seemed very long after a long day and my fourth trip in eight days. Great to get out with everyone, and extra thanks to Oyvind for the excellent route choices. Gear Notes: Axe, crampons; harnesses, 35M 8.3mm rope for Horseshoe--may want a cam or two for the ledge Approach Notes: This time of year is ideal for this route. Later it will be unpleasant talus. Getting into the basin via the gully and back via the ledge worked very well.

I was using "take" on Liberty Bell last week when my partner told me to say "up rope". I suppose this serves two purposes: "up rope" is a more distinctive sounding term (take can sound like many other words), and has less confusing connotations and history than "take". He's a Calif-bred climber, maybe that has something to do with it.

Great trip and pics! Interesting route. The fugly gully is a great late spring route, booting up nearly its entire length on 40-45 degree snow.

Trip: Snowfield, Colonial, Pyramid - Neve Glacier Date: 7/2/2009 Trip Report: Went in with Oyvind H. Thur 7/2 to meet up with Tobae, Tim and Khanh at the 5900' camp, and went quicky up Pyramid that evening. Next morning left camp at 5:30 for a fun loop from Snowfield to Colonial via the cols on either side of Peak 7505. Glaciers are in such great shape that we never felt a need to rope up, and snow was in excellent condition, no post-holing. Crampons only needed for the high traverse to Colonial's summit ridge (slip here and you will be doing the Watusi Rodeo--in reverse). 10,000'+ in 28 hours. Great group in a spectacular area. Pics here: Gear Notes: Harnesses, ropes--brought but not used. Approach Notes: The thigh-burning trail is in its usual wonderful shape--mild brush, mud, etc etc.

If you're interested in a scramble instead of a climb, give me a call today @2o6 251-1981 (no email at home).