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Everything posted by Billygoat
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[TR] Isolation Traverse (Colonial-Eldo) 5/29/2007
Billygoat replied to tvashtarkatena's topic in North Cascades
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[TR] Mt Rainier - Kautz Glacier Climb / Sunset Rid
Billygoat replied to skykilo's topic in Mount Rainier NP
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I've bought straight from mr. yates in the past. Have they stopped doing that?
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northish facing. vegetated and currently moist. possibly a little chossy too. get after it later in the year. It is a worthy lump of rock. many possible lines. It looked a bit overhanging and thin too...That's aid to me
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You girls love men. Get over it and start enjoying 8D
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Contact Dannible Blake. Methinks you two are on the same page and at the same level...
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We missed you too...
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[TR] Darrington - Silent Running: car to car 5/28/2007
Billygoat replied to mattp's topic in North Cascades
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Nice pics and TR Mythosgrl said It took me 2 hours and 30 minutes BTW
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Had a blast. Saw some old friends, made some new ones, put some faces to online ones. Lots of mashed potatoes and sun. lots of oysters, in fact, Mythosgirl's first 5.8 alpine trad lead and oyster! Wore myself out. Confirmed an old suspicion. Drank.... I headed up Thursday evening and met up with Fern and her friend Julie. We blazed a trail up to Cutthroat Creek trailhead and car camped. First ones of the season. Our objective was the elusive Snout, Golden Ramp Route as mentioned on page 361 of the CAJ and reported on page 349 of the 1971 AAJ as the "...best free climb in Washington" by the first ascentionists. With Fern's warning about "tongue in cheek" humor in mind we set off from the trucks at 9:30 and boot packed on the firm snow through the woods to tree line. At 11 we broke for lunch. Fern and Julie had their systems dialed as they whipped up some group non dogs with a mustard/tilla wrap! We spied the snout and approached. I had seen it on previous trips to the cirque. Pic from the ridge to the West that I climbed partway a couple years ago with Matt, NYC007 We figured the best route and threw the directions away cause they were confusing. Fern lead the first pitch of the Golden Ramp, an enjoyable slab. She brought Julie and I up simultaneously. We moved left and found a nice ledge and a tree to belay from Julie headed up and lead the crux of our variation. It was an awkward undercling that pinches out. I didn't take any pics till she was past it as I didn't want to break her focus. Fern has a wonderful video of me peeling off and landing in the snow on that one. It lead up to a small roof and a vegetable belay. Fern took the next blocky lead and I took the final one. I stopped short of the top due to rope drag and brought the girls up. We scrambled to the top and came down a dihedral a little West of the Golden Ramp (could be a nice future climb). On the last pull Fern had to give it her all to free the ropes due to some unseen friction Then we packed up and skied some taterz I have a couple videos of Fern and Julie sking if anyone knows where I can post them and link them up to here. Do I have to do YouTube?! We made it down to camp in the Methow and partied with everyone. Saturday I hooked up with Blake, Mythosgirl and Lisa D. to ski up and climb the Southwest rib of SEWS. We ran into Wayne Wallace and Mikey Layton at the Burgundy col pull out talking about something vague on Sliver Star. Mike was intimating something personal b/w he and Wayne so we buggered off 00ooo:snugtop: We were able to skin up and ski back to the car all the way from the Blue Lake trailhead parking lot which is not plowed out (budget cuts?!). There was quite a line up on the route with others in the cirque parapenting, touring, dodging cornice fall and climbing the South Arete Route. I climbed with Lisa D. and lead the first pitch. I felt like shit, due to the 9 beers I had the night before and blowing my wad on the Snout (weekend warrior that I am), and bailed off. Lisa D graciously accepted my apologies and took my rope, after I rapelled, to continue on with Blake and Allison. As I was packing up their boots and skis to take up to the base of the South Arete, the intended rap route, this loud mouth yob comes trouncing around the corner singing songs about needing a PBR. Pretty soon he pulled a can from his stash and began blazing the hay. He didn't offer me shit, mumbling something about "fuckin' skiers" and "piss". Soon two others come around the corner and it becomes obvious that these three were on the route as we were approaching. Matt (NYC007) recognized me first and the other guy turned out to be Pete (MntHigh?). The big talker turned out to be the Terrible Ivan. Anyways, in between Ivan spraying about what a great route the South Rib would be to solo, I noticed Mythosgirl climbing the 5.10 variation with the group pack! That shut Ivan up for a couple seconds Well due to back ups on the descent route we headed down late and got back to camp around 10 pm to some worried folks (glad you were there) that were prolly too drunk and/or comfortable to mount a search party. While I was waiting for the rest of my group to rap the South Arete, I was able to watch this guy thoughtfully and artfully downclimb the route in mountaineering boots, while his partner rapped. He was very calm and deliberate about the whole thing and it was quite enjoyable to watch. Turns out it he was Dannible an infrequent sprayer! He didn't have time to join the party in Mazama but we traded some beta and then he and his partner hiked down the ridge for a 2000'+ glissade to the hairpin. Sunday was sleep in, pack up, fillet and brine some fish with Snogrrl, pitch log rounds with Dave P, Snoboy, dudeman from bozeman and drink beers in the noonday sun Thanks much to Dave Parker for arranging this w/e and for the good talk, as well as his friends for letting us use their great land! Cheers to Jon and Timmay for buying the keg and paying for the port a potty. Double cheers for Robin and Eva for picking up the Keg. Kudos to Kurt for getting back in the saddle. And I'm glad someone else liked oysters as much as I do cause I would have gotten sick eating them all myself! And I would have done it...Glad you all liked the Salmon, sorry I couldn't stick around Sunday evening. It was super great finally meeting Robin and Eva and seeing everyone else. And as usual, climbing/skiing with Blake and Fern! Next year....
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[TR] Dakobed Range - Solo Traverse around Tenpeak 5/12/2007
Billygoat replied to ryanl's topic in North Cascades
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I'll bring some paper plates and firewood, beer, whiskey, garbage bags and some meat
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I'm bringin' a shit load of whisky I have to get rid of...
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[TR] Snow Creek Wall - Outer Space 5/17/2007
Billygoat replied to ElisifHarro's topic in Alpine Lakes
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I'm driving from the North Sound, taking Blake and another friend, Thursday late afternoon
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You mean this This Or this ?
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how old are you, old man? do you remember ww2? Old enough to know better...... and young enough not to care Oh yeah! Muffy knows what time it is
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Allright, if you say so...