Dustin_B

Last update on the missing dates/locations from my post above: Olympia Mounties: May 15/16 or May 22/23, McCleary Cliffs on Lake Cushman , basic rock weekend June 5/6, Lworth/Mounties Dome , intermediate rock 1 June 19/20, Lworth/spread out , intermediate rock 2 Is this information (dates/locations/groups) worth putting into its own thread for reference?

Guess you better stay home all summer and not go climbing then. My SUV gets 15-20 mpg, I drive to work 25 miles each way, by myself, 5 days a week.

Yeah, like people driving $40,000 SUVs care if gas cost $2 or $3 a gallon.

Sweet, thanks for the info. I think its going to be a zoo out there this weekend!!!!

Thanks for the info. Do people usually ski off the summit or do they drop down below the bergschrund before they strap up? (I know, "it depends on how good you are...") I've only been up Hood once about 2 years ago and don't remember much past the Hogsback. I'm new to bc this year and I was kind of just assuming we'd drop skis at the Hogsback. We'll make the call for ourselves when we get there, but just wondering what most people do. Thanks

Is there any problem with bivying in the Timberline parking lot? If so, where do people usually crash before hiking up the south side of Hood? Anyone been up this week? Is there a pretty good snow bridge across the bergschrund still? Thanks

I watched the whole thing. He had two cams about 10 feet below that popped without any hesitation when they were loaded. He was very lucky. The two cams he had in (same crack, ~6 inches apart) where the only pro he had. He was level with the first bolt and attempting to traverse over to clip it. That place needs more bolts on those slabs!!!

Thanks for bringing back the mammaries CBS, you really know how to dig up old threads!! I was such a newbie back then.... I ended up getting all 6, actually, but the smallest 3 are really the only ones that I use. The big ones are fun to play with but are really pretty useless in the long run. (sorry for the poor pun).

send Toast a PM, he has used them a bit recently. He thinks they leak.

I did a similar system but was even lazier - instead of adding a hook, just looped it around the premade one on my freerides. yeah, one of my friends did this on his freerides and it works great (easier to get off than my hook). I would have done the same if the Titanal 3's had the pre-made hook. I just wanted to avoid putting a bolt into my topsheet like what is suggested on wildsnow.com.

Add to my list above: Tacoma Mounties: April 17/18, Squamish , intermediate rock 1 May 1/2, Leavenworth , intermediate rock 2 (Sat - spread out in small groups; Sun - Barney's Rubble)

Although it might be fun to watch this brawl unfold (and my money would be on the mounties), I thought I'd see what I could do to avoid any conflicts. Below is a list of field trips, dates, and locations of the boealps and different branches of the mountaineers. I didn't look into the other climbing organizations such as the Mazamas, WAC, etc. Even for its length, this is not an exhaustive list, rather only info I could find on the different organizations websites. I will not attempt to order them chronologically since I just have them listed by organization. Now can't we all just get along!! BOEALPS: March 20, Mt. Erie, basic rock field trip March 27, Horsethief, intermediate rock field trip May 1, Smith, intermediate rock field tip May 22, Squamish, intermediate rock field trip April 24/25*, Leavenworth, joint class rock field trip Bellingham Mounties: March 27, Mt. Erie, basic rock 1 April 17/18, Skaha, BC, basic rock 2 Kitsap Mounties: April 17, Mt. Erie, intermediate rock (rescue) May 8, Leavenworth, intermediate rock 1 June 19/20, Leavenworth, intermediate rock 2 Tacoma Mounties: April 24 or 25, Spire Rock, basic rock 1 May 15 or 16, Leavenworth, basic rock 2 April 17/18, (location TBD), intermediate rock 1 May 1/2, (location TBD), intermediate rock 2 Olympia Mounties: May 15/16 or May 22/23, (location TBD), basic rock weekend June 5/6, (location TBD), intermediate rock 1 June 19/20, (location TBD), intermediate rock 2 Seattle Mounties*: April 3/4, Mt. Erie, basic rock 2 March 20/21, Leavenworth, intermediate rock 1 March 27/28, Leavenworth, intermediate rock 1 April 17/18, Leavenworth, intermediate rock 2 April 3/4, Leavenworth, crag course rock 1 April 10/11, Leavenworth, crag rock 2 May 8/9, Leavenworth/Vantage, crag rock 3 May 29/30, Leavenworth/others, crag rock 4 April 10/11, Vantage, Big wall course rock 1 May 8/9, Index, Big wall rock 2 Everett Mounties: April 17/18*, Leavenworth, basic rock 2 March 27/28, Leavenworth, intermediate rock 1 April 24/25, Royal Columns, intermediate rock 2 April 24/25, Leavenworth, crag course rock 1 May 8/9, Royal Columns, crag rock 2 May 22/23, Vantage, crag rock 3 June 5/6, Squamish, crag rock 4 * = means I would guess that this gathering would be on the larger size, you know "mountie size". Doesn't mean the other gatherings won't be large though. PS - I emailed a couple of people in charge of these organizations to try to nail down the locations of the TBD field trips. If they respond, I'll update the list.

one more photo

I rigged this system up on my clip fix (see attached photos)and don't have any more problems.

careful *where* you plan this thing as spring is the prime time for mounties and boealps basic and intermediate climbing course rock field trips. things might get ugly if the two events happened at same time/place

After W's re-election in November the Bush spray will tapper off as we all settle in for another 4 years of sage wisdom from the greatest linguist ever. So hang in there.

I've got a solution: don't go to Vantage. I still can't understand why the hell people want to climb on that choss?? Sure the weather is better over there, but in general that place sucks ass. So many other places to climb. In hindsight, nevermind, everyone go to Vantage....

Nice work! You made some good time

Nice work! You must have accessed the ridge to the summit block lower down (like we should have). We went up a short dihedral directly to the left and under the overhanging summit block (which is pretty loose rock by the way). It was definitely not 4th class. I left a tied green 9/16 inch double runner (with my name on it) at a spot on our descent (southeast slopes, near the tree line) were we stopped to shed layers. Dropped it in a post hole and forgot to pull it back out. Its practically brand new. At least I think that is where I lost it. We also left a yellow neutrino marked with yellow tape, near the summit, I think. Did you find either of these items? I believe that is all we are missing, but I'll check with the others. I'm sorry, but you'll get no sexual healing for that booty. It just isn't worth it. We'll buy you a beer though!

We took pickets and the snow would have been excellent for them but we felt comfortable enough not to rope up for the couloir itself. We roped up about 100 feet short of the rock pitch at a small bench, then did a running belay (slinging a couple trees) up to a solid belay tree for the rock pitch. I don't think flukes would have worked in those conditions.

I, for one, like the new home of spray. Its a fitting place for it. Now if I could just figure out how to list the "last 25 non-spray posts" I'd be a happy camper.

Dustin must've stole it. I just stole what was apparently already stolen. I didn't steal it. I told you it was not my picture. Listen and read, son!! Great lead, by the way. You the man!!

When I first saw Scott's avatar pic I thought to myself that it tops Lummox's/Amber Buxoms. (actually AB's is kind of annoying). I think Scott has the best avatar here right now. If the female lurkers are sensitive enough to be offended by that, they'll likely not like it here in general. If they don't like it turn it off. The trashy avatar should stay, please don't change it.

awesome video and TR! good work.

"Good to meet pretty girl in park, better to park meat in pretty girl" ~ Confucius