catbirdseat

Yes and those days are long past.

They are nice because you can clip into both bolts with it (with two carabiners, of course) and you can adjust your distance from the anchor with it. All points are full strength. If you use only a clove hitch, you'd best back that up with an eight.

One of these days I'll get around to replacing my daisy with a Metolius PAS.

Hmmm...I guess it's worth tying correctly. I usually clip my daisy to the first piece of gear I place or one of the bolts if it's a bolt anchor, and leave it there. That's my backup.

At the border crossing we were asked if we had any agricultural products in the car. We said no. I knew we had a couple of apples but I didn't want to be hassled so I said nothing. We apparently were not believable because we were told to pull the car off to the inspection station and given a orange slip of paper. We were to present the paper to the agricultural inspector. When asked I told her we had a couple of apples and a package of chicken hot dogs. "Are you sure they are not beef?". I said yes, it says so on the label. Upon inspecting the car, they came back with Fred's remaining third of a salami. They didn't care about the apples. Turns out they were after all beef products- you know Mad Cow and all that. Since the part of the label listing the ingredients was missing they had to confiscate the salami. And that is the story of how Fred lost his horsecock.

The biner will fail at 3000 lbs instead of 5000 lbs. Your protection will pull out long before the biner fails.

What's your partner Matt serving up there old buddy? I knew you weren't a fussy eater, but shit...

Upside down on your back. I wonder who you learned that technique from?

I asked Trask and his reply was "Fuckin' A". Take that as you will.

Wow, I was completely unaware of this. I had to go tie a clove hitch to see whether I have been doing it right. I had a fifty percent chance either way. Fortunately, I've been tying it right all along. I am so relieved.

I'll use the power point of the anchor on occasion, but otherwise, yes, it needs to be a piece separate from the anchor.

I guess it takes all kinds.

Difficult, runout, slab climbing. Can't beat it with a stick.

Well, she is known as a Girl of Stihl.

Holy smokes! Birthday cake barehanded. No telling where those hands have been.

I think "anal racker" might have been almost as funny.

He's obviously a cockney. Dude, lay your loaf of bread on your little bo peep and go to sleep.

This weekend I saw food materialized from thin air. We went to McDonald's in Squamish. I bought a muffin and coffee for me and a coffee for Fred. I went into the washroom for just a minute and when I came back, Fred was munching on a hash brown that miraculously appeared out of nowhere. He also had a second cup of coffee. Now I know there's no way he could have ordered that fast while I was away. Thus, the food materialized by immaculate confection.

A "lower case" tr. Hey, you got out, which is more than a lot can say. My TR would be a lower case one too if I chose to write one.

Damn you look silly in that goatee. Baaahhhhh!

I asked Fred what he thought of Castle Crags. He said he'd climbed there once and didn't like it, "the rock was soft". I couldn't get him to elaborate. Soft? Soft granite?

That's remarkable. Who was that? I've never seen that style of playing before. Pat Metheny, while not the technician is an amazing composer and improviser: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzVa_X9zKcc Here Richard Bona plays bass almost like a guitar. His playing is on par with Stanley Clark, Ron Carter, and Jaco Pastorius. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAs3Fm9D7HA

So what is the best source for route info on this route? Beckey or Nelson, or both? How would this compare for overall difficulty with Orbit, for example?

Oh, man... so jealous. Nice trip!

I was not familiar with the term moulin until I looked it up. I'd seen them on the lower Coleman glacier, but didn't have a name for them. Now I do. I assume the word is pronounced "moo-lan", with a silent n. Comes from the French word for mill.