catbirdseat

How do you know they appeared "suddenly"? All I know is that they weren't there last December. Erik and Minx, you are two people who each need to have the last word.

I keep the seat cover down if for the only reason that we have a bunch of shelves full of toiletries above. I'm always knocking stuff down and I don't want to have to reach into the toilet to retrieve an item.

Trask, after you climbed the shit, I sure hope you took a hot shower, and scrubbed behind your ears.

They are known as "mafic" rocks.

Run along home to your mother, kid, you bother me.

I'll join you Friday if my Darrington climbing plans fall through.

They were there today. We weren't in the mood for trying to extract them. All we wanted to do was climb.

There are three fixed pieces on the third pitch: two cams and a nut. It's turning into clip and go. Something must be done.

I guess what was so unnerving was the uncertainty of finding protection. You never follow any one crack for long, but rather go from one to another. You can't see a placement until you are right on it. Seemed like they were all there in the end...

Click here for a topo of the route.

Dustin, there is only one pitch with 5.8. The rest is 5.7 or less. The West Ridge Stuart climb never happened because of weather.

The bike ride is fun. I wouldn't skip the bike ride for the the world. It's what makes it a "Trains, Planes, and Automobiles" type climb.

I get the sense that it is an unusual occurrence for the approach gully from Glacier Basin to be free of snow and ice. Two years ago it had 15 ft of neve in September. 1998 and 1999 were pretty big snow years, though. Since we had no ice screws or pickets at the time, it made for an interesting trip.

Clint must live in a really bad neighborhood.

Kudos, Jim. As an Intermediate grad myself, I share many of the same sentiments you voiced so eloquently.

Come on Dru, we all know the only reason people wear polypro under shorts is its CHEAP. Ten buck for the polypro and ten bucks for the shorts, versus $100+ for Schoeller pants. Let's all ridicule the indigent novice climbers. Tell 'em to buy the cheap ice axe and crappy crampons and put their money into fancy pants so they look good.

Dustin, I had so much fun on that route, I'd be willing to do it again. When do you want to go? BTW, got any big cams?

Fleb, if by "Mountie" you refer to certain style of raiment favored by Basic Climbing students, that's not how I dress. My style is closer to that of the late Bill Robins (MHRIP). Lawrence of Arabia hat, natty old long sleeve polyester shirt, ancient nylon Sahara pants, patched innumerable times (overlapping patches, catsup and chainring stains), modified Alpine Bod harness, and I climb in socks. One of the things that seemed attractive about climbing when I started out was that fashion seemed unimportant. Function was paramount over form. Actions won out over words. There appears to be a subset associated with this board for whom fashion and appearances are perhaps more important than anything else.

I really like this thread. I think California will certainly get what it deserves.

I think people are having a hard time taking you seriously. First you say you have a novice in your party and then you rattle off some more advanced routes. Finally you mention you are going to do them during the least favorable month of the year. Get Gauthier's book. It's pretty good.

The residual mojo comes free with the tools.

I love soft shelled crabs with butter.

Two words: gun safe

I saw that goat hair. How the f**k did a goat get up on that ledge? Could the hair have blown there from the gully? Those goats are awesome climbers . Someone had a samoyed dog unchained at the base of the South Arete while they climbed. It was a cute and friendly dog, but it chased the goat. Of course it never got near to catching it. Still, it seems like a pretty irresponsible thing to do on the part of the owners (to leave the dog unattended like that).

I used to love big, juicy rare beef burgers. I don't touch them anymore.