catbirdseat

Saw a few buttonheads offroute at Exfoliation Dome. I hear you will climb on them at Static Point.

For the purpose of stopping the "zipper effect", a bolt is omnidirectional.

I probably wouldn't recommend the place on a weekend, but it is nice and quiet on weekdays. We didn't see any beer bottles soaring over our heads.

Bill and I were there today, as a matter of fact. I was topping out on a route when grabbed a hold. I felt something gritty and loose. I looked down and saw this yellowish material filling several pockets in the rock. It looked like ash. On closer inspection, one could see very small particles of what looked like bone. I have a sneaking suspicion that I was climbing through human remains, or "cremains". I think someone decided it would be nice to toss their loved one's ashes over the cliff. The only problem is they didn't dispurse. They went plop. Anyway, it made me think I should be careful and not have an accident lest I end up like a little pile of ash on the rock.

Dirty blue guy

Don't get out much do ya??? What you talkin' 'bout, Willis? I been climbing all day today at Mt. Erie.

Several people commented that running might cause the gear to zipper. Are you using an omnidirectional placement for your first piece? If not, then you should be. BTW, all bolts are omnis. Some, if not most, cam placements can be omnis. Chocks can be omnis if set in opposition.

Sounds like Deja Vu (see previous SW Rib thread). When are people going to learn to keep their dogs on leash?

What if you are using a GriGri?

He's totally embarrassed about forgetting the rope. He doesn't want his colleagues to know he screwed up.

We saw a balloon descending into Icicle Canyon from the top of Cashmere. It was a mere white dot. At first we thought it might have been a hang glider, but it turned out to be much closer (and smaller) than we had originally thought. Only could have been a balloon.

Hey, it's a beautiful day in the neighborhood...

Who can second guess the weather? I'd rather go on a good forecast than a bad one. I already know it sucks bad up there when its wet and I don't need that, as I can go any time. I had a great weekend at Vantage and have no regrets.

This topic came up in another thread actually. This is something they don't teach in climbing courses, but which is something people pick up, I guess. I haven't had to do it myself, but I have always been prepared for, especially on slab climbs where you have a little more time in a fall. Generally, I figure I can get at least an arm length of rope back through my belay device before locking off, but how does one get more than that without risk of losing the belay. Any advice?

The problem is the way in which you asked your question and the timing of it totally lacked sensitivity towards someone who just went through an ordeal. There is a time and place for analysis for everything, but the dude is still trying to get over it. Savvy?

We saw Figgereight at The Feathers Friday night. He said he climbed Air Guitar with Erdan at 1 pm that day. We just missed him. We hoped we would see him on the road on our drive back Saturday, but didn't encounter him.

Poor Dwayner. Too much gave him the worst set of beer goggles.

I was camping at the Feathers the other day. Being the first one up in the morning I headed for the privvies at the other camping area. There was a woman's purse lying right in the middle of the parking area. There was no one around. So I think to myself, do I leave it there and hope the owner finds it? If I leave it, probably some dirtbag will take the credit cards or at least the money. If I pick it up, I have to deal with the hassle of returning it. I picked it up. It belonged to a 21 year old from Spokane. After breakfast, I drove around asking anyone if they knew someone named Erica W----. No luck. So I left a note on the bulletin board with my cell number on it. It wasn't until late in the afternoon at Sunshine Wall after we'd completed our last climb of the day, that my phone rang. When I got back to my pack, I picked up the message and it was Erica. She was at the Concert (The Gorge). I called the number she left and she answered. She wanted me to drive up to the ampitheater with the purse! I told her we were tired and hungry and just wanted to go home to Seattle. If she wanted her purse she had better meet us in the parking lot where she lost it in 30 min. She finally said okay. So we arrived at the car and I spoke with a couple of different car loads of people, neither of which were Erica. I spread out a tarp and began sorting my gear from my partner's. After about ten minutes the phone rings again. It's Erica. She's breaking up and I can hardly tell what she is saying. My partner says, "turn around". She's standing like 50 paces away. "How long have you been there?", I asked. "Oh, about 20 minutes", she said. "How come you didn't just walk up and ask us if we were the ones with your purse?", I asked, as we were the only climbers in the entire lot. "Oh, I don't know", was her reply. I guess she was shy. I handed her her purse and she thanked me. She offered me some money, but I said no, and she was off to her concert, only a little late. I was just glad I didn't have to deal with hassle of mailing the purse.

Lummox, you ought to think just a little before you post.

Good 'ol Albert. Makes me think of trask.

Hear that everybody? Don't go to the Enchantments. It's butt ugly up there. Michael, glad to here you are out climbing again. No more gimp!

Erik, it sure is a hard burden being as smart as you are. I don't know how you manage to keep on with your towering intellect in a sea of insects. I can only imagine.

Does it feel good that you cheated to get there?

Here's to good samaritans.

Cancelled weekend plans because of weather. PM me if interested.