catbirdseat

You guys aren't conceptual thinkers, are you?

We are comparing two systems in which the rope runs exactly the same. We are not comparing singles to half ropes in which one is clipping alternately. All things being equal- that is routing over rock, sling lengths, etc. - the twin rope setup will have more drag. It is simple physics. You have a greater ratio of surface area to volume with twins. Period. Although I haven't used twins myself (although I have used half ropes), a friend of mine has and says the drag is much worse than with singles.

Drag should be proportional to surface area in contact with the rock which is proportional to total circumference: 8.1 mm twins: 2 x 4.05 x 4.05 x 3.14 = 103 mm 10.5 single: 1 x 5.25 x 5.25 x 3.14 = 86 mm 9.2 single: 1 x 4.60 x 4.60 x 3.14 = 66 mm The single rope system should have less drag, assuming both strands are clipped to every piece.

I suggest not parking in the lot, but rather in the camping area at a site, even if you aren't camping. I think you are less likely to get hit by the smash and grab thieves that way.

Now MisterE, be nice. Merv has been behaving himself thus far. No need to bait him.

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Found on anchor yesterday: single 1" sling tied through the two hangers in an American Triangle. There were new chains on each bolt. Why would you go on a single sling when you could go on the chains? The sling wasn't backing up the chains as evidenced by the wear mark on the sling from pulling the rope.

A friend of mine told me there are people who just like to rappel. They don't climb. They just rappel. He was telling me about how he positioned the anchors on a new route he developed at Tieton so that they were below the top by about ten feet to prevent rappelers from using his route for their sport. He also had a story about watching people scramble to the top of the Feathers at Frenchman's Coulee and rappel the sport routes there. That's a new one on me. I regard rappelling as necessary evil, not as something to do for fun. Has anybody run into these people before?

Although I've never used twins I've been told that on rock the rope drag is worse than a single and a lot worse than halfs clipped alternately.

From http://www.usmga.net/guidelines/guidelinesropes.htm "The UIAA tests for half ropes are done on a single strand with a 55kg load rather than with the 80kg load as in the single rope test. This test can be misleading since the 55kg drop load would obviously be less severe than the 80kg single rope drop load." The author goes on to say: "Typically half ropes should not both be clipped to the same piece of protection, as this has the potential to generate dangerously high impact forces in the event of a leader fall. It is suggested practice for half rope system leaders to arrange protection and ropes so that it is likely that both ropes will eventually be involved in arresting a fall. Although the primary shock in the system is being absorbed by one strand, the second rope engages soon after and diminishes the strain on the other. For this reason the 55kg test drop load is still considered appropriate."

We were at the Oasis at Tieton on Sunday. It showered a couple of times, but the rock dries very quickly. We ducked under a big overhang by a cave during the showers and stayed dry. Tried out a brand new sport route, The Fan, 5.8, on Jack O'Lantern Wall. It get's a thumbs up. Bring a 60 m rope

Weird. I could see how a 120 m might come in handy for top roping 60 m pitches, but 200 m? Why? Even cut into 4-50m lengths, it would be considered pricey.

I'd like to know more about the sharp edge test. Are some of these Mammut ropes specially designed to take the edges or is it a function of the rope diameter?

Here is some random data from the Mammut website: Type....Diameter....Falls....Impact Force....Sharp Edge Falls Single...10.5............11-12....9kN..................0 Single....9.5...............7.........9.1...................0 Double...8.5 ............14-15....6......................0 Double...9.0.............14-15....6.2...................1 Twin.......7.5.............16-18....9.3...................2 So, if you want low impact force, doubles are what you want.

The pods remind me of Invasion of the Body Snatchers.

"All Gates wanted to do was operate in a free-enterprise system, and 'there's no party that supports the free-enterprise system like the Republican Party,' Herbold said. " Translation: Freedom from complying with Anti-Trust Laws.

The one Chris didn't include was, "Don't get caught".

Chockstones can shift and let the slings slip past and look no different afterwards. If this had happened the rope would still be through the slings and they wouldn't have blown away by the helicopter. Since they were not found, this means they must have broken.

This video comes to you courtesy of trask: Advice from Chris Rock

There was an article in the New York Times the other day about how chummy Kerry and Dean were becoming. I didn't quite know what to make of it.

All I can tell from articles I've read is that his finger print matched on 8 points. I've seen nothing about him ever having left the country. Supposedly, 8 points is enough to convict in this country, but not in Europe. So now they find an Algerian who's fingerprints match better and only then do they release the guy from Oregon. Seems like you need more than a poor fingerprint match to arrest someone. Don't you have to show that he might have been at the scene of the crime?

Did anyone hear about an accident that occurred on Shuksan Monday with a helicopter evacuation?

It was my understanding that you went on one new sling you had tied. So you went on two or three old slings?

Give it a rest, Dru. I know where Snoboy lives. My apologies to you Canucks. Testy are we?