DanO

The usual conditions is windy and very cold in winter, which means no exposed skin. I do not like down, don't use down mitts. Your sweat will collapse the insulation in your mitts. I don't like the ski goggle method of protecting your eyes from the wind. When you sweat the inside of the goggles will freeze up and you can't see. Better to take two balaclava's and make a eye slit to see through. Or you take one balaclava and a ski mask. You put the two on at once and make a eye slit to see through, works much better than ski goggles. You can carry the ski goggles and the gear I named and try both systems to see what you like best. The weather rules on the mountain, if you have to stop up high with no gear you will freeze to death in bad weather. Even in relativity good weather you would freeze to death in a night in winter if left out. You may want to carry a snow shovel. Practice self arrest, with ice axe, with ski pole and with your body alone. Carry crampons of course, carry snowshoes if you drop into a bowl the snow can be soft and really deep. Dan

Wait until you see this, you will cream in your shorts. I wish I had one myself, I know nothing except this video I just found. You can operate it with your hands alone. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hgn1Psq0V24

How about some sort of personal flying machine? They make some small neat flying contraptions, a lot of risk and fun, but you don't have to slog your way up. Just soar over the tops and valleys. Of course I think this more dangerous than most normal climbing, but you can do it. Dan

I was climbing in the Tetons in the summer going up a steep snow gully to go to another climb. One member fell, had on a heavy pack, steep snow all slushy from the sun. He had pretty good self arrest position, didn't slow much until he hit a pile of gravel, then he stopped, slid about 20+ feet. I decided to solo the crappy rock section beside the snow after I saw his fall, me with heavy pack, I doubt my way was better , he and a partner made it up the snow gully after the fall. I am no super expert, but soft snow can be hard to self arrest in. You need to act fast and in good form, I would think to dig in toes hard and fast. Better yet to belay yourself at all times when in these conditions. You plunge the spiked in of the ice axe for self belay. Climb safe, reason for these posts. Dan

http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/148353.jpg I imagine the rock will be wet and maybe snowy. But not verglassed. Serious situation to climb up, but a good team should be good to go on it. Hope the weather gives a window for a direct lift. This says a strong party can make it to the base in one long hard day. Can be done, but not much gas left for a rescue, especially carrying extra rescue gear, the weight. Would need the strongest climbers. Maybe mules(hikers not real mules) to carry the extra weight and the rescue climbers go light? To have more energy for the buttress. Say a prayer. Dan

My GF a climber, I taught her how to climb and did at least a couple of times did the self arrest exercises. All positions with a ice axe, then all positions with a ski pole, then self arrest with the body alone. Here is the photos of how to self arrest with a ski pole. http://www.epicski.com/forum/thread/57090/how-to-self-arrest-head-first I do my hands differently when I do it, I put my lower hand and upper hand above my shoulder and lean into it with my body weight. Then I practice self arrest with my body alone, you cup your hands at your face and you place your cuped hands and elbows into the snow and arch your back and push in your toes. We did this a couple of years and my GF had it down pretty well and I felt good about teaching her and the practice we put in. All this a year+ ago. As climbing season approached this year. I felt nervice as sometimes she gets her hand placement wrong to do self arrest. We was planning to do a climb on steep snow and I asked her if she could self arrest and she said yes, of course!! But still I lingering doubts, one evening I made it a point to do all the types of self arrest to practice them all, she was reluctant. I still had the skill pretty well, but even I got better after a few runs. She couldn't get the hand placements or body positions right on her first few tries...... For some reason her memory or automatic body memory did not have self arrest down after about a year+ without practice. Something to think about, of course I don't know about this accident. I try to practice these skills once a year weather I need or not. Climb safe. Dan

Trip: Rock climbing at darlington, 3 o'clock wall - Date: 5/25/2009 Trip Report: Hello Went for the first time to 3 O'clock wall in Darlington Washington. Went up Forest Road 2060 about 3 miles and a snow and tree avalanche had the road blocked. Luckily we had our mountain bikes in the truck so we biked up to the trail head, we walked and pushed the bikes in about 2.5 miles. Since we got a late start we just did the first pitch of the 5.7 on the north buttress on 3 O'clock wall. The ride back down the road made bringing the bikes a joy. There was a few down trees along the way, we went around or over them. Plan to go back again and finish the climb someday. Bring your mountain bike if you have one for the road section, if you want to climb there or hike 8 mile trail. Dan

Hello, I know it has a good boot track, but I still wonder if I should bring snowshoes or not? Any opinion? Thinking of going this sunday evening to monday. Thanks Dan

I have not used these yet, but thinking of trying them out. I use ski poles anyway. If I was going to do a long glacier climb I would probably use my old heavy axe anyway. I think these would be good for lighter usage. http://www.cliffgear.com/details/climbing/iceaxes/1186/all http://www.backcountryworld.com/showthread.php?t=396&page=2 I have used S.A. grips since there introduction 25 yrs. ago. They work good for climbing until the snow becomes very hard.If there is exposure and I am carrying my skis I will switch to an axe and a grip for better self belay protection. DANGER ! this type of tool is minimal at best at arresting a fall! My brother stopped a fall by quickly assuming proven S.A. position and committing to one grip. I have taken 3 slides. My first reaction was to use both grips to stop , but both quickly rotated out of the snowpack!Commiting to one pole-grip using proven S.A. technique was the only way to slow myself to a stop. Practice and quick reaction cannot be over emphisised.The falls were taken in soft slurpie,firm, and very hard snow conditions,all required the same tech. to stop.

I have been looking at all the hats on the REI website. Anyone have any favorite hats? One of the hats is this one. http://www.rei.com/product/781572 Use it on glacier climbing etc. Thanks Dan

7 to 10 miles with a 30lb plus pack 3-4 times a week about half the distance should be going up and down hill. The best training for climbing, is actual climbing so do so every chance you get on the weekends. Dan

For car camping I like to look for the best deals. I look on the campmor web site and also check ebay etc. I used to live in new york and could pick through the mail return items in the campmor store. I could find really good deals in those days. I think most any modern tent made by a brand name to good quality so other than size I would look for a good deal. One thing to consider though is there any chance you would use it on a real trip? If so I would consider one of these tents. http://www.golite.com/Product/ProductBySubCategory.aspx?sc=86&s=1 They can get very big and you can get the floors and the bug nets for them. Great for snow camping, very light for the number of people and do well in high wind, good for multiple usage. Dan

You can go to a welding store and pick up "cheap" glacier glasses just get a pair of the sunglasses/safety glasses with the number 5 lenses used for torch welding. I have used them some, but don't know about multiple day usage so you do so at your own risk. They are a lot cheaper than regular glacier glasses. If nothing else not a bad option for back ups or extras. Dan

Two more cents worth, I have a heavy set of boots that I don't use very often and I have a light pair of boots that I use all the time. I think I could get away with using the light pair of boots for all types of climbing in spring, fall and summer. In other words from my personal experience the lighter pair of boots would get a lot more usage than a heavy pair of boots in the cascades. Of course you would suffer a lot if you get caught out in the cold with them. For me , light is right, but of course I do have two pair of boots one light and one is heavy. The cost to buy two pairs of boots is really high, that is why I used the heavy pair for quite a long while before I got the light pair. Still if I HAD to have only one pair of boots I would go with the light pair, and use chemical foot warmers in the cold. I fitted my boots to fit with one pair of heavy wool socks. Dan

My two cents worth, It is nice to buy boots at a place you can take them back for exchange if you have fitting troubles. REI is the best for this if your a member. I actually took a pair of boots back that I wore on a couple of climbs that the fit was all wrong and they took them on exchange for another pair of boots. Initial cost was higher, but well worth it to me. Pro mountain sports has a similar policy as well. Dan

Bivy Sack is sold. Thanks Dan

http://www.tarptent.com/scarp1.html Also. http://www.tarptent.com/new.html If I known about the Scarp1 tent I may have bought it instead of Hillberg Akto I have? http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2788309640046140551keVuIP The Akto I have has really tough fabric so I have little regrets. but the above tent has two vestibules and you can add extra poles. And it is cheaper! This tent maker is coming on with new designs and bears watching. Dan

Hello all. I have some REI dividends to use up and a 20% coupon. I am thinking about getting these lightweight crampons for the GF. http://www.rei.com/product/751754 I have these Stubai crampons and like them very much. http://www.backcountrygear.com/catalog/accessdetail.cfm/STU100 I would rather get another pair of Stubai's, but REI does not carry them. The question is how are the Camp crampons? Good as the Stubai's? Any opinions after usage? We have steel crampons for winter usage, just want something for summer alpine. Thanks Dan

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://knradventuregear.com/Tents_Bivy%2520Sacks/id_bivies/bullitpic1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://knradventuregear.com/Tents_Bivy%2520Sacks/id_bivies/bullit-bivy.htm&h=152&w=210&sz=8&tbnid=GvYjX2G7whibCM::&tbnh=77&tbnw=106&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbullit%2Bbivy%2Bphotos&hl=en&usg=__5wE60XiFJNS5GqCw6w9IKRfRJBo=&ei=Y--mSZPyLsiLngef4pTeDw&sa=X&oi=image_result&resnum=1&ct=image&cd=1 Will take half off full price. Take $80 firm plus shipping. Used once, in like new condition, camouflage color. I used it and it worked fine, but I decided I don't like bivy sacks, got a super light single wall tent instead. I will guarantee the condition of bivy. I live in Mount Vernon WA, will ship or you can come by to see it. But most weekends I am out doing stuff. email wretyduf@rocketmail.com Thanks Dan

Rei kilo light is for sale now, a really good deal. 20 degree down bag. Weighs 2 pounds.

One tough climb, I would like to get in some harder climbs myself, but my main partner-my wife, I don't want to break her, won't ever get her out again. Also I need some more time to let my knee heal. Your bivi is more than any would prefer. I couldn’t wear glasses because they would ice up on the inside and my eyes felt they were lacerated by the ice particles in the wind. I have had this problem also, with ski goggles and with sunglasses, in really high wind you can't expose any skin, I soloed mount Washington in new Hampshire once in winter along with other climbs up there. I found that by far the best method for me is not the glasses, take a ski mask or a second balaclava and what you do is take the two and put them on and adjust them to make eye slits. That way you expose little skin and you can actually see pretty well through the eye slits made by the two garments. For me this works a LOT better than ski goggles, they just froze up on the inside, you also can adjust the eye opening for conditions, blowing hard across your face? The side with the wind you close down small, the opposite side you can open up a little to see better. I have never seen this in a book, found it out myself. If you sweat and most of us do, your goggles and to a lessor amount-sun glasses, freeze up on the inside. Down mittens I also had down mittens and I liked them but in real use on the Mount Washington trip they was getting soaking wet from sweat and snow melt and they all I had to ware. Luckily I did not have to bivy and I got down in a hurry or I would have been in trouble with my hands. Go with primaloft or some synthetic or wool. Down is dangerous, this is my thinking. I am impressed with your climb.

Alpine Trekker touring adapter An alternative to randonnee AT gear http://www.wildsnow.com/articles/alpine_trekker/trekker_review.htm Any opinions on this gear, worth while? I doubt I afford Randonee gear this year for me and GF. Will check on it though. Dan

I guess the obvious solution is to buy a set of plastic climbing boots of some type? Any recommendations? Or should I give up until I can get one of the more fancy touring outfits? The cost is painful! I guess the cheaper alternative it plastic climbing boots if they would work good enough to ski? Any particular type better than the others? Dan

http://www.sixmoondesigns.com/shop/shopexd.asp?id=36 Later on, I most likely will pick up this tent for summer usage and light alpine. Dan

Hello, I got out my old alpine skis and Silvretta 404 bindings. I got this set up some years ago on ebay. It looks like a matched set. I am a low to intermediate downhill resort skier. I used my leather boots and the combo worked great going uphill. Downhill though I really had a hard time. I had the heals locked and and had a hard time turning and skiing on extremely easy terrain. Gentil slope on a snow covered road. I could only go downhill when I was really crouched forward with my knees and I felt like I could fall over backwards very easily. I really had to keep weight forward to stay in control and to even turn a little bit. The main question is , I think the bindings are mounted a few inches to far to the rear of the ski. I wonder if there is a place I can go to figure the proper mounting out? I live in Mount Vernon Wa. I also, if any here used these skis downhill using leather mountaineering boots, is this outfit that hard to go downhill with? Dan