billcoe

How did everyone forget to add the "John Frieh Memorial Gearwhore Museum" - devoted to the gearwhores of yesteryear?

ps, they got snow cones in the gym for your buddy, but heres a virtual one fer free: And whats a snowcone without some clowns lil Timmy? (preemptive Dwayner clownpunch post) Yup, I believe these boys is out there in the woods at "Fun Forest" just waiting to meet up with some young stuff such as yerself.....

I'm guessing that any response you get from anyone will sound something like this: "Tommy, you need to stay in the gym and grow up".

Asshole. I'm in my cube right now. I've been thinking about heading there for a long time. I have the Dolomite guide book at home...and still have my empty my dreams....sigh... Sounds like you're having just way too much fun. I want to see that TR Jesse, get lots of good pics eh? _________________________________________________________________ JH: rolled up it. Still seemed physical, I think that's cause I'm old and weak in the upper body. But we did YW afterwards and that felt easy and could have done some more too but we both had family obligations, my bro and his wife were in town and Ujhans Aunt had come into town as well.

I keep looking for the "Elmer speculation thread". You know, who Elmer really is. There is some obvious exaggeration, yet we seem to believe the story to be true. However, where is the speculation thread. "Who's Elmer"? Is it too later for the speculation to start now ? [font:Microsoft Sans Serif]I'll start, could it be.........shhhhhh, G-spotter??! [/font]

I bet that sissy didn't do the sit-start to reasonable richard. Probably should go back and do it again so he can say he climbed it. I saw them last week, I think he might have done that one.

Sorry to have missed you...again:-) I think the stealth thing is kind of a carry over from my younger days where I had a family, a house, bill's, a full time job and lots of rental houses to deal with, blah blah blah. I could only runouttherejumpoutofthecarrunuparouteor2thendirectlytothecarandhome. Whew. Yeah, that kind of thing. With my younger son now 17, no rentals, and a little extra scratch in the bank for breathing space, I feel I have more free time to hang out, but old habits die hard. I wanted to crank blownout before it got hot, and it worked fairly good except I was already somewhat dehydrated and had less than a quart for the 2 of us to share for YW. So I was getting tired when we topped out on that one. Must have been over on that side when Joesph started wailing as I heard and saw nothing. I was going to help him the previous week but we passed on it for other reasons. JH had shown me the brand new ultrasharp Japanese woodchisel he was going to use to wang the trees that had grown up inside the crack out. I had never thought of that, as he was describing it, his saw couldn't get in the crack to cut them out and he thought of this idea....he even brought something to sharpen it. The thinking was pretty sharp too. I stand in awe of the amount of work he's done out there. Just crap like this which takes a hell of a lot of time and effort.... Yup. BTW, my token attempt to help others today on a family day saw me quickly running out and back to spray Poison Oak at the short cliff closer to town today (Portland Rock Gym O.... or PRGO for short). As I'm walking past a few climbers at the base with my sprayer in hand: chick asks: What are you spraying", I say, "Oak"....She replies: "Why? .. is it diseased or something?" My mouth opens and I'm looking directly at her speechless when the dude behind her says: "Poison Oak". "Ahhh" she says. The 40' high Poison Oak tree right by the base that Kevbone, Jim and Kevin had pulled down, chopped off, then rolled off the hill was regrowing. Not from the bicep sized trunk, but right up from the roots. It was turning into a fairly sizable bush too. I used Orthos "Weed-B-Gone" concentrate, which my wife had bought for the lawn but said: "Controls over 250 broadleaf weeds including dandelions, clover, chickweed, oxalis, ground ivy (Creeping Charlie), wild violet and other tough weeds." It was half the price of roundup -actually 4 times cheaper as it is twice as concentrated. Looking forward to seeing if it works. Hope I don't get burned trying to cheap out, I sprayed a lot of Oak all around out there today with it. If it doesn't take I'll pony up and get roundup and do it again. I'll have some pins for you next time I see you JH, and I have one of Jims crabs I pulled off a tree today too.

Carl, is that to mean Rogue is greater than Bridgeport by a factor of 3?

You bringing yer rockshoes and a harness Toad? The link to the few remaining pussies who still get on rock in PDX link. There's about 3 or 4 places relatively close to get a pump, depending on how much time you have etc etc. PS, did not see this yet, but Powell's bookstore in NW Portland (not the technical bookstore which is a few blocks away but smaller) downtown is a hell of a great place to browse if you like books. Furthermore, you can grab a book you like and wander right into the in store coffeshop and read it if you desire. From there- its a short walk to 2 great lil places: Bridgeport, where the IPA wins awards and the Blue Heron is sublime. They sell "cask conditioned ales" which are not available elsewhere that are significantly smoother and of a more full flavor. Unfortunately, it's no longer a cozy rathole with the best Pizza and Caesar Salads in NW PDX, but a more upscale, expensive environment (Still it's good food). Rogue ales is fairly good as well and even closer to Powells. Don't know SE well, sorry I can't give you better advice for that area.

I take back everything I've said about you Pope. No wait, I haven't said anything bad about you...what was I gonna say....hmmmmmmmmm......... Ohhh ! just wanted to say, Reese, this is the dude, take him up on this amazing offer.

Shout: I have some I can donate to the cause, but I need to do some serious rummaging before the cause gets em, and I'm too tired right now. I saw your car out there today JH but missed you. Also saw Ron Kirby and his wife Christine, starting to do Blownout as we got off of it, and ran into Pete as we interested near Corner/Young Warriors, and that was moments after intersecting Ivan as he soloed through as well. Cobra, can't imagine you falling on anything, but I usually carry a single screamer and use it as a quickdraw, it helps the mental thing when you are eyeballing a pin. At this point JH has tested and or yanked and replaced damn near every pin out there. Had someone fallen off the pedestal on Right Gull, it's probable, based on what Jh says of the status of that mank gear that they would have yanked the pin AND THOSE RANK BELAY ANCHORS AS WELL pulling everyone there to their deaths. Amazing amount of work.

Now thats adventure climbing ! Any pics you can scan Don?

Thanks for the support 'Hound, it also sounds better than: "cause Bill's a f*en Gearwhore who ran out and bought all that crap 15 min after it came out and even when he's on the ground scratching his ass lookin stupid is still stuffing it into various places to see WTF is up:-)" The same thing (what you said) can be said of JH as well.

I'll be soloing The Plum tonight, 50 feet west of Video Bluff. Most likely TR. No Ujahn, no Tim (prior obligations). Shake my light blue Beal rope if you see it and need a belay. I'm out of here right now.

yes, date night. See email, Sat I'd love to join you if that schedule change works for JH.

John, if you can do it Friday afternoon, it should be much more magical than Saturday when it will be significantly more crowded and more stressful.

How do you figure? What do you mean Kev?

Yeah, this is the full meal deal: this is a copy of a RC.com post. I will add, that the longer I climb on it, the more I like the Supercam. Metolius may be the best equipment mfg out there. It is not a co-incidence that you sometimes see some hot Black Diamond sponsored climber trying some unclimbed testpiece carrying their cams. On another current thread, someone just posted some issue with the new BD C3's, and it was pointed out that you NEVER get any issues with the Metolius 3 cams. Metolius shit is just that damn good. Since I wrote this, they have come out with the medium Metolius Supercam, and its a great size range and addition to the small. I think if you are gonna be diving on it: you get Metolius to be sure. Look at the new Safe tech Harness to see this kind of thinking for instance. -updated copy follows- Being the gear whore that I am, I found myself at the base of El Cap with an El Cap sized rack of cams but with stones the size of peanuts, and only a week long trip, so not actually up the stone. At the base, however, while waiting for my partners to aid a crack, I spent some time in between pleasuring myself, looking for dropped gear, and chasing Alligator Lizards by looking at the strengths and weakness's of these hot new supercams in various placements and configurations. Trango Maxcams Omega Pacifics Link Cams Metolius Supercam Black Diamond Camalots Trango Maxcams The Trango Maxcams bite into a flaring bombay placement better than any other cam noted on my list. Hands down. If you want to put them up against Standard Metolius cams, I would expect you to say that the Metolius bite better. The Metolius have that rep. But, I didn't compare the 2 as I only own the regular Metolius in the smaller sizes and did not, compare them. Although the Maxcams work in a flaring crack stick better than any other extended range cam, you do not want this cam placed at the upper ends of the size range. Period. The most amazing thing happens if you should choose to ignore my advice and do this anyway. The recommendation is then therefore twofold. Option A) Slap a long, floppy runner on the placement and say a prayer it doesn't move. -and/or- Option B) Wear some Depends. Maybe double bag it with em even. A slight wiggle and the cam placement will shift and likely invert. Should you choose to forgo option "A": then sure as shit Option "B" will be critical, so when you look down and see that key placment fall out of the crack you are going to have sh*t running down yer leg as sure as the donkeys in Tijuana will be doing stage shows for Navy dudes. Be aware that the super range which Trango shows on paper is reduced significantly in the real world due to this inversion potential. Crank them down when you stuff them in and you'll be fine. Given this critical information, you would think that I would run, not walk, away from using these cams. Not true. Although you can easily get these things to fall out of a practice placement standing on the ground and messing around, I have never had one happen to me in the real world, and I've been an early adopter and owner of these puppies. I've stuffed them lots of times into lots of places in lots of areas. As long as you know this potential issue, you can easily avoid the issue so pay the f* attention and re-read that little part up there again cause it's mission critical. The other huge advantage which Trango Cams have over all of the others noted relates to the offest lobe design as well. Because the stem if offset, ie, one side of cams is larger than the other, if you find huecos or horizontal cracks, they place significantly better with the stem in the up position than any cam in the world. I found that in Red Rocks and Joshua Tree, you find these kinds of placements there much more often than say…Smith Rocks or Yosemite. Your results will vary depending on your area. I find that if there is a yellow Maxcam and a Yellow Camalot on the rack, the Maxcam gets used first. Some others I have climbed with have noted this very fact as well. Can't say why that is. Climbing magazine gave this cam a "best of breed" or "cam I'd most like to stroke" award. Something along those lines. Given how much money Black Diamond must spend on advertising, that is high praise indeed. Omega Pacific Link Cams I bought 2 each of the #2 and a #1. The range is so close that you have to wonder why they bothered making the #1 at all. These things have the largest effective range of any other cam out there. It is so large of a range that it is difficult to condition your mind to utilize it. You just don't easily grab a cam the size of the #2 Camalot when your fingers are stuffed into a small-yellow, grey or Red Alien sized crack. Especially if you are gripped and greasing off. Yet if you do, this cam will stick in there like an old whore using Polygrip instead of Astroglide. Like the Polygrip it's truly amazing, stunning and shocking…in a good way I mean. They are truly a fantastic piece of equipment and every climber should have at least one. One slight downside is that they are heavier than other cams (say 7.3 oz vs B.D. 5.7oz) . In your hand they do not feel heavier, and for cragging, it would be quite a relief if when finishing a pitch and having only 1 cam left for the belay, this was the cam you had. Pretty much assured it will fit. There are some negatives with this cam other than being heavier. It's been raised online but not seen it yet: that the complexity of the mechanicals alone could be a potential cause of failures. There had been a single published instance of the rivets not being properly stamped on a single cam, which Omega Pacific to their credit jumped all over to make sure that their stuff was good. An identical thing had happened to the Trango when they first came out as well and it was handled with equal aplomb and speed. A non-event for both companies as they handled it so well in both instances. In the flaring bombay crack, the Link Cams did not perform as good as any of the other cams noted. That is not to say they did poorly, because that would be inaccurate. OP, in the marketing literature, says: "The unique range eliminates the need for specialized, “offset cams” for flared-crack protection", and also "With a constant cam angle of 13.5°, we achieve our range without sacrificing holding power..". I do not agree with the first part of that sentence as currently, offset cams tend to be very small, both the recently introduced offset 3 cam units from Metolius, which rule huge in the pinscars at Yos, or Alien offsets (if you don't know that strange story just search "Alien Cams and failures" to get plenty of reading material to catch up.) My biggest complaint of these came about during my road trip and I have not seen this issue raised elsewhere. Although all cam mfgs recommend periodically washing and re-lubricating their products (Blah blah blah, yada yada, sure thing bra, I'll get right on that…..NOT). With the Link cams, it becomes mandatory. That slick-feeling perfect mechanical feel of a brand new Link Cam seems like it to turns to sh*t about as fast as a Hummer goes from 0 to 60: that is in about 5 minutes and very steadily. If any of you lazy bastards think you can avoid this washing and lubricating chore, well, let me know how you figured out how to avoid it so I can do the same. I have some original solid stem Friends from the 70's which I may have washed and lubed twice, maybe. Plan on having a maintenance schedule with these things and it might need to be more frequent in sandstone. If you are incapable, incompetant, lazy or just don't want to do this chore I would avoid this fine product. No joke. Omega Pacific has taken an additional step of spending some thought re-designing the trigger wire mechanism. Their intelligent well-thought out solution is strong, innovative, secure and easy to replace. A quick look at this alone and you will see that the quality, manufacturing complexity, and attention to detail they have put in this cam should, could, and does merit a higher price than any of the other cams noted. Metolius Supercam They came out of the blocks fast with what they call a small sized version: and then stalled out. They have 1 cam, and a great effort at that, however, the medium and large sizes must be on vacation. Metolius has a reputation for high quality fit and finish. This cam does not disappoint in that department, but it lacks any single striking feature where a bro's eyes will start bulging out and he starts yelling "I gotta get me dat!". It is both innovative and solid. But these guys need to come out with the big brother and big sister. Personally, I do not like the U-stem as much as the thumb trigger mechanism both Trango and BD employ. This is truly a personal choice, as I know people who feel the opposite it true for them. I do find it highly interesting that on the rock plugging one in I never noticed this effect, only on the ground in the store does it make a snit worth of difference. I think I shall call that the "Pucker factor". Once you're Puckered, that feature is totally un-noticeable. It does have less range than the Link Cam yet is close to the same weight as the heaviest in the group. Although a near horse race for 2nd best grip in the granite flaring crack contest, the BD edges it out by a nose for 2nd. Metolius is known for making perfect product. If you have to fall on any of these cams, despite the fact that BD finally appears to have gotten it right, this would be my first choice due to reputation. Black Diamond Camalots Not much to add to what is already known. These are the granddaddy and gold standard in extended range cams. With good reason they are widely seen in any climbing area you may go to. Their 3rd gen Camalot has all the good and none of the bad and is lighter and easier to plug than any previous generation Camalot. The only real argument you may hear is that a rack of regular Metolius cams is lighter. True. And the Metolius regular 4 cam units stick better as well. True. Which may be the reason you sometimes even often see Metolius cams on sponsored Black Diamond climbers racks when the climbing gets serious and difficult. But I am talking about the extended range cams only here, and if you do not have any cams yet or you want to upgrade from the old crap you have, these are the ones to buy. Period. I retired all of my old B.D. Camalots in favor of the new ones. They are that good. Beginners or cube-farming chuffers who only get out on an occasional weekend: and thus often grab the wrong sized cam while pumped to the point of peeing their pants (ie, me - and people like me), love the extended range, ease of placement and strength of these. Buy a rack of these and stop worrying about all the rest of the crap. Most likely your climbing partner will have these as well, and it's nice to have consistency. These have a slight, tiny lead on the Metolius in the flaring/bomb bay cracks. Hardly enough to notice, but it is a distinct second place based on how the Trango sticks. Downside: none. Remember, gear whores aren't worried about cost, and all of these extended range cams will cost you a left nut to own. Unless you're a chick, in which case just grab your boyfriends if you need one. Regards all Bill (BTW, please note the following) Your results may vary, Void where prohibited, Batteries not included, Subject to verification of funds, Restrictions may apply, On approved credit only, Actual size may vary, Not for use with children under 2 years of age, Saturday night stay required, Your mileage may vary, Not the Beatles, Do not attempt this at home, Simulcast not available in all areas, Contains explicit lyrics, May cause burns, See store for details, Limit one per household, Cannot be used in conjunction with another coupon or offer, Odds of winning: 1 in 14,456,763, Subject to change without notice, Celebrity voice impersonated, May increase risk of cancer, Views and opinions expressed here do not necessarily reflect those of management, Contestants may have been paid a fee, Your results may vary, May burst or release toxic materials, Does not apply to business credit cards, Do not mail cash, Keep away from magnetic fields, Not for resale, Service and installation charges are not refundable Excludes tax, license, and doc fee, Map not to scale, Employees and their families not eligible, Errors must be reported in 30 days, Do not put in fire or mutilate, Do not use as a step, Please consult your physician before using, Incomplete forms may not be processed or acknowledged, Do not remove label, Each office independently owned and operated, Not liable for any incidental, consequential or special damages, however caused, Do not bend, fold, staple, or mutilate, Professional driver on closed course, Not safe for human consumption, Results not typical, Fees subject to change without notice, Do not use if seal is broken, Subject to verification of funds No purchase necessary, Past performance is no indication of future results, Beware of dog, Some assembly required, Prerecorded for this time zone, No anchovies unless otherwise specified, As seen on TV, At participating locations only, Slippery when wet, Times approximate, Avoid contact with skin, Package sold by weight, not volume, Discontinue use If a rash, redness, irritation, or swelling develops, Price does not include taxes, Dolphin Safe, No substitutions allowed, No salt, MSG, artificial color or flavor added. If you die following my advice or any advice you may find on the internet freely given by strangers please consider yourself warned that it is a bad idea to follow advice from strangers: always check all strange or new information with your parents first and if they are unavailable check with the government. _____________________________________________________________ Malcom Daley popped on and reminded me one big thing I forgot was that a big selling feature of the Maxcams was the doubled sling.

I'll defer to your expert opinion in this matter.

Holy crap.....I cannot begin to tell you have I wish I had some (NOT ALL DAMNIT) of my words back. Someone obviously just learned to climb in the gym and saw this lil crag.... I have told you before that I suspected that in our arguements we should, would and could be agreeing more than we would be disagreeing, such is the case here. Sad day.

yup

I do they are freakin awesome

I must have been close to this area last time I wanted to go climbing and it was raining. I just headed out and wandered around.

Awesome!

OK, I understand not wanting to share your private" lil climbing areas: but this is just rude holdin out about this one. No grow lights needed "STEVENSON, Wash. - Authorities on Wednesday discovered at least 4,500 marijuana plants growing on a steep hillside above the Columbia River near here. The large marijuana grow operation was located about 10 miles east of Stevenson, according to the Skamania County Sheriff's Office." Ya stingy bastards. Ujhan at Jimmez Choss Pile in August,@ 10 miles from this stash.