at_climber

The route is actually bolted as well as possible I think. There's just no way to let go and clip for most of it, you're just pinching and laybacking the arete with very, very small feet. I agree with Phil on this, I'm not really into risking bodily injury on a sport route. I guess I didn't think that I would deck if I blew the clip, just come really close. On this particular route, you would be stick clipping from the pillar, so the clip is thirty feet off the ground. I guess I just had to decide whether to simply toprope the route, which is fine, or figure out a way to lead it that was acceptably safe. Obviously my judgement on the safety turned out to be incorrect, but I still think this is a potentially safe lead if done with double ropes.

Olson's guide gives it 12b, which seemed about right to me. I lead it the other day without incident, but took a fall higher on the route after the scary clip. I knew I'd have it in the bag next try so I decided to finish it this morning but my foot popped unexpectedly right as I was clipping and that was that. I also doubt the gear is still there, but I figured I'd post this just in case. If I don't ever see it again, that's fine because I'm very lucky to have limped away with no serious injuries

Luckily, I walked away with just a lot of bruises and some cracked ribs. I'm feeling pretty fortunate considering I cratered from about 15 feet up onto a pillar that the climbing starts off of. Slapfest is on the left end of Hanging Gardens Wall just right of Loose Block Overhang. It's the bolted arete and face that starts off a pillar 20ft up or so. Great climb, it just has one of the diciest clips I've ever had to do, and blowing it is not an option as I found out yesterday. Should be safe if done with double ropes, which is my plan for when I get on it again. Thanks.

Unfortunately I had a little accident and decked on Slapfest out at Broughton this morning; nothing broken but I'll definitely be really sore for a while. I had to leave my gear on the route, which included a BD stopper and some quickdraws/biners. If anyone happens to clean this gear and feels generous, I would of course be grateful to see it again. My name is Adam and I work at the Oregon Mountain Community in Portland, the number there is 503-227-1038. Thanks and be safe!