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Posts posted by billcoe
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Pink already led that Ivan and he named "bloody hemorrhoid"...but he didn't' tell anyone. So go ahead and climb it and then he'll speak up afterwards and tell you had he did it 20 years back and he doesn't like yer new name.

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Both of those are GREAT!!!!
Ditto, thanks for posting them Alan. It's one of the side benefits of climbing with Jeff, he's got amazing and interesting stories like this all day long. All day! As the Mazama historian he keeps getting new material too.
Jeff and I last Oct or so, Jeff doing the work on the FA of "It's all Good": photo Lostcam kenny.

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Your post didn't say a single word about death threads. Re-read it yourself. You put the story into your post so I didn't click the link, just read the part of the story you put in your post. Not a word Drew, so stop being such a douche. You only put the "dozens of insulting e-mails every morning." and "I’ve gotten so many hate mail". Big fucking deal. Did someone even threaten to cap her ass on the Interglacier? No. I'd imagine we see worse insults, and more personal ones, here on spray on a daily basis.
http://m.theglobeandmail.com/news/world/canadian-climate-scientist-finds-fame-hate-mail-in-us/article2297802/?service=mobileShe once was a science-minded undergrad who spent her nights minding the telescopes on the top floors of the University of Toronto’s McLennan building.Katharine Hayhoe is now a figure of some fame and controversy in the United States, for her sin is that she is an evangelical Christian who is also a climate scientist trying to convince skeptics that climate change is for real.
Dr. Hayhoe made headlines after the Republican presidential hopeful Newt Gingrich came under pressure and dropped plans to have her write an opening chapter on climate change for his upcoming book.
Now, her teaching duties at Texas Tech University have resumed and the sting from the Gingrich snub is fading. But the hate mail is still pouring in, dozens of insulting e-mails every morning.
“It’d be a lot easier to stay home. It’s not easy having people standing up and screaming at you. It’s not easy opening your mail in the morning and seeing a hundred e-mails, each one more hateful than the last,” Dr. Hayhoe said Monday, in her first interview with a Canadian news outlet.
“That’s not easy. And it’s not the science that motivates me. It’s what comes from the heart.”
That introduction to the sharp-elbowed world of politics was the latest blow for the 39-year-old, who already had a taste of hostile audiences from public speaking at Christian schools, seniors homes, farmers’ group and book clubs.
She was prepared to deal with emotional, unfriendly reactions. But she wasn’t expecting what came with the name recognition, she said.
“There’s a well-organized campaign, primarily in the United States but also in other countries, including Canada and Australia, of bloggers, of people in the media, of basically professional climate deniers whose main goal is to abuse, to harass and to threaten anybody who stands up and says climate change is real – especially anybody who’s trying to take that message to audiences that are more traditionally skeptical of this issue.”
It was even more shocking because she didn’t see herself as a “Godless, tree-hugging activist” but a scientist who also happened to be a member of an evangelical Bible church. She is also married to a pastor.
“The attacks’ virulence, the hatred and the nastiness of the text have escalated exponentially. I’ve gotten so many hate mail in the last few weeks I can’t even count them.”
On one occasion, after appearing on Bill O’Reilly’s show on Fox TV, she received nearly 200 hate e-mails the next day.
She sees her work almost like a pastoral mission, where she frames the issue as doing the right thing for the love of one’s children and neighbours.
“My own faith is the Christian faith and in the Christian faith we are told to love our neighbours as much as ourselves. And our neighbours, especially the poorer ones, are already harmed by climate change.
Most of her family still has roots in the Toronto-area. Her father is a retired science co-ordinator for the Toronto District School Board. An aunt is a sinologist at the Ontario Institute for Studies in Education.
Her parents were also missionaries and between the ages of nine and 18 she spent much time with them at a school where they worked in Colombia.
She graduated from the University of Toronto with a degree in physics and astronomy. With her father and a sister and another professor, Dr. Hayhoe co-authored a grade 10 Ontario textbook on climate change.
While doing graduate studies at the University of Illinois, she met her husband, a linguist.
Six years ago, the couple moved to Lubbock, after he got tenure at Texas Tech. Her husband is also the pastor of a local evangelical church.
Dr. Hayhoe says she had never met people who didn’t believe in climate change until she moved to the U.S. and began her public work.
Because she framed her concerns with optimism rather than doom, she was approached four years ago by Terry Maple, who was co-editing Mr. Gingrich’s book, to pen an opening chapter.
Mr. Gingrich, however, has struggled with some core Republicans who accuse him of harbouring environmental sympathies.
And thus, in mid-December, Marc Morano, a conservative activist, derided the planned book co-operation with Dr. Hayhoe, saying that it proved Mr. Gingrich was a “committed greenie” and a “warmist.”
Mr. Morano is a former Fox News contributor and his item was picked up by radio host Rush Limbaugh.
On Dec. 28, Mr. Gingrich was approached by a female supporter at an Iowa campaign stop. A video posted by the weekly The National Journal shows the woman telling Mr. Gingrich she wanted to talk about “Rush” and the global-warming book chapter.
Mr. Gingrich stopped her in mid-sentence. “It’s not going to be in the book. We didn’t know that they were doing that and we told them to kill it.”
“Good, that’s all I needed to know,” the woman said.
Afterward, Mr. Gingrich signalled to an aide. “Remind me when we’re back in the bus: ‘Rush’ and ‘global warming’,” he told the aide.
Dr. Hayhoe’s learned of the decision from the media.
“Nice to hear that Gingrich is tossing my #climate chapter in the trash. 100+ unpaid hrs I [could have] spent playing w my baby,” she wrote on Twitter.
She says that she now feels no grudge against Mr. Gingrich and that the incident is just proof of the acute polarization that has affected what should be a scientific debate.
“Attacking me and my colleagues and trying to intimidate us and trying to smear us is not going to change the facts of the situation.”
perhaps that question is related to something else like the Ben Stein story I linked above?I know you are barely above a moron in reading comprehension and thought process so I will pitch this to you slowly.
The original post is about a scientist who is getting hundreds of death threats a day for having the temerity to call herself a Christian while producing science that indicates that climate change is occurring.
You post a link claiming that Ben Stein had a contract terminated for being a climate denier.
Hence my question. Are these two things really equal to you? Are you really that dumb?
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So tell me Bill, does free speech extend to hundreds of death threats a day?
No. The supreme court has already indicated that even yelling "Fire" in a crowded theater is not protected speech under the 1st amendment. If this is a reference to my panties being twisted because the President ordered the death, with no judicial review wanted, needed or allowed, of an American citizen in Yemen. If the politicians in office can start whacking us cause we are yelling douchebag things about our politicians, then I'd expect spray to start thinning out as they reach their tentacles down to us low life's. As far as what is salacious political talk that should get you executed immediately with no judicial recourse, I don't believe they have ruled on that ...yet.
I don't know what your question is in direct reference to Drew, but perhaps that question is related to something else like the Ben Stein story I linked above? Or...hmmm, hey - must have been drinkin' again?

Is this you?

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http://www.reuters.com/article/2012/01/12/idUS265209529320120112
By Kurt Orzeck at TheWrap Thu Jan 12, 2012 2:01pm ESTBen Stein claims he's a victim of political discrimination. The conservative pundit and actor -- and former Nixon speechwriter -- alleges that his position on climate change had him kicked off a $300,000 acting gig, only to be replaced by a lookalike. Stein filed a discrimination suit against Japanese company Kyocera Corporation and New York ad agency Seiter & Miller Advertising, in Los Angeles Superior Court on Wednesday.
He is claiming breach of contract, wrongful discharge and emotional distress, among other charges. In the suit, which was obtained by TheWrap, Stein says Kyocera reneged on the deal and replaced him after the company found out that he isn't sure humans are responsible for climate change.
Probably should have just closed his eyes, nodded his head, gone along, and kept cashing those oversized paychecks.
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The mods wiped the turds off that gold, that's all.
They wiped off some of the gold too, good on ya for reposting.
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Mods must have deleted it Pat's Smith trip report. Had some interesting stuff on it. Amongst other stuff like some pretty schweet pictures (Collen jugging in space with the bags was rad!) it had one of the best free climbers in this state show up and was posting pics and explanations on a couple ways on how to make a stick clip.
Too damned bad it's gone.
I was looking for it to say to Pat that Timetravelr is a great guy to hang with, and you'd be fortunate to tie in with him. So I'll say it here.
Said.
Auferdersehin bitches.

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Che-rios...
in Spray
LOL! Damn that's a hell of a lot funnier than when I ran into a Cuban Expat who wanted to discuss me wearing my "Fidel for President" shirt....:-)
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Dave, you're a good person and all, but take the high road here. Trash has stopped drinking and is trying mostly trying to not be a nasty mean spirited assed prick to about everyone all the time. I don't think he's a bad person underneath that exterior and we should help him if we can.
High road sir, high road.
Regards to all
KK and JayB: if you guys are interested shoot me an email or a PM.Put me on that list too if you don't mind John.
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FALSIFY THE DATA? WHAT? DAMMIT!
HARTFORD, Conn. (AP) — A University of Connecticut researcher known for his work on red wine's benefits to cardiovascular health falsified his data in more than 100 instances, university officials said Wednesday.UConn officials said nearly a dozen scientific journals are being warned of the potential problems after publishing his studies in recent years.
The researcher, Dr. Dipak Das, did some studies of resveratrol, an ingredient in red wine that has shown potential for promoting health.
But Dr. Nir Barzilai, whose research team conducts resveratrol research at the Albert Einstein College of Medicine in New York, told The Associated Press that Das is not a major figure in the field. The new allegations will not make a material difference to resveratrol research, which is being conducted extensively around the world with encouraging results from many labs, Barzilai said.
Enthusiasm in the potential health benefits from red wine grew after a widely reported study in 2006 in which obese mice lived longer, healthier lives after getting resveratrol. Das was not involved in that research.
UConn officials said their internal review found 145 instances over seven years in which Das fabricated, falsified and manipulated data, and the U.S. Office of Research Integrity has launched an independent investigation of his work.
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I'm with Matt on this. Probably neither of us really wants Paul yet we both might vote for him. Ivan just brought up Chinese emperors on another thread (the republican thread), and it reminded me that the absolute power of life and death over their subjects was and hall mark of Chinese emperors power.
This is the mantle we have seen the President pick up with the recent US military strike on Al-Awawaki, a US citizen, who's crime was supposedly to have spoken ill of our country. Thought crime, speaking his mind. Saying it out loud. That is what was "claimed" by the President in the news media. So he needed to be killed for publicly speaking his mind, no court case needed. That they also killed another American in the car, the innocent 16 year old son of the man, surprisingly seems not to trouble or bother but a few of my countrymen. I'd suppose I'd be more fine with the outright murder of the man-which is just what happened, murder by the state in violation of all our laws and traditions, had he been indicted by a court before hand. Yet even the court case that his father brought to try and save his son, the same son who had earlier claimed via the media that the Presidents media reports were overblown and not true, was thrown out.
I think there are few issues anywhere near to being as large as this addressed by any candidate other than Paul. The right of our leader to kill any of us based on evidence given in a backroom and published in the media as being irrevocably true.
Rob wants the EPA. Me too. But big fucking deal if they can deprive you of your very fucking life with out a trial. Paul is the only person discussing this.
I hope that the Paul campaign, with all it's baggage, can shape and frame the real debate we should be having right now with some bedrock serious and important core issues.
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chinese emperors back in the day had so many bitches they had to build a whole special city to hold them all, and made certain any man entering the city had his ballz chopped off before he could go in.
Meh, having an overlord with the power of life and death over you is overrated. It is making a comeback under the Obama administration however. A vote for Aisin-Gioro Pu Yi is a vote for for victory over democracy.

Yippy yai-kioh Partner.
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In modern times Heraclitus would have fucking rocked the Twitter.
Or twittered the rock if he was drunk enough....
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Nothing to fire away at. Self improvement is a good thing. Some of the rest of us should be eyeballing the same.
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Well lately this board is great for one thing at least: racking up posts. I'm up over 820!I didn't realize that was what this board was for...
Going skiing now, later all!

Well, you can forget all about skiing if you are serious about racking up posts. No way you'll ever catch up with Trash, Sobo or me with that kind of a "go get me some freshies" attitude....

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go away, stupid troll
Troll? Who's a troll? At least he climbs and posts climbing things.......?
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Clearly, more hope and change is needed...
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can i borrow your rope?
Enough rope leftover for tieing up the boyfriend?
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Thanks for that heads up John. I didn't know some of that. More info here along that line: http://www.uhs.uga.edu/aod/athletic-performance.html
The other side of the coin for middle age women: http://www.myhealthnewsdaily.com/1681-grow-old-gracefully-tips.html
"For middle-age women, having one alcoholic drink a day may improve health and pave the way to a long life, a new study shows.Research this month from the Harvard School of Public Health included a look at the Nurses' Health Study, which has been ongoing since 1976 and involves 121,700 women nurses. Researchers examined the health status of the 13,984 women in the study who lived to be 70 or older.
The results showed that women who had an occasional drink, up to one per day, of any alcoholic beverage during middle age had better overall health when they grew older than women who did not drink at all, those who consumed more than two drinks a day, and those who had four drinks or more at one time.
The researchers defined good overall health as having no major chronic diseases such as heart disease or diabetes and no major cognitive and physical impairment or mental health limitations. The study authors said such health leads to "successful aging."
Which may be tied to an earlier tip in the article on maintaining an optimistic outlook...
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I was just wondering what is a good beginner harness, that's affordable and safe. I dont have tons of extra cash to throw into a harness. And yes i realize i could ask a salesperson at a retail store, but id rather hear it from a community of climbers.
Thanks

Just read Genespires stuff, that's what I was gonna say. Go to your local store and hang in it. They're all safe. Comfort is what you want. Do some stretching and make sure it doesn't impede your movement too. Generally lighter harnesses are better for long easy backcountry routes or for hard asses trying to shave a gram for a hard send, while heavy wide harnesses are better for hanging aid routes. That said, I think the best all around harness I've encountered for what I do, if I had to just pick ONE, is the Misty Mountain Cadillac. Yet I have 3 Metolius harness's as well, 2 of the bigassed Waldos, for hanging in. The Waldos are more comfortable for hanging in while doing new routes.
No use for Black Diamond harnesses for me either. I learned that at my local climbing store by hanging in the BD harness's. Last week I just gave my son a Yates Shield I picked up online without hanging in it first. Bad idea. Yates has a great rep an make top notch stuff, but I think my package must be much larger than than the kids, as he found it comfortable and I hated on it.
Go thee to your local store, not one named REI. As far as the price thing goes, if you are going to be in the game any amount of time, get the one that's the best for you. WORST damn thing you can do is get some uncomfortable POS BUT ya save a few bucks. Every time you are in pain waiting for a slow assed partner to come up and you are hanging in space on a cliff, you will remember these words. LOL.
Welcome !
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Let's say you're a relatively new climber, female type (less than 12 summits...successful, even), and had a gift certificate for $500.00 for some gear. You have the basics and want to do more Alpine this summer including some solo treks in the Cascades/Canada.
What kind of upgrades would you make to your gear bins...anything. Ropes, shells, pants, picks, protection (not Trojan), shoes/boots?
Just curious.
Snide, smart-ass comments always appreciated.
(OK, so I was a super nice girl this year, and Santa is gonna be good to me.)
As you don't seem to be the "frigid" type (heh heh), and there is some good advice upthread but I'd make doubly sure that you have something to withstand a cold, cold rain. (It would be great if you only face cold fluffy snow) That means you'd have either (or both) a Eddie Bauer/First Ascent Rainjacket or a kick assed PrimaLoft® One coat. Gear doesn't mean shit when you're hypothermic, and if you are solo, a sudden wet cold squall can do you in and put you down quick. As you've done 12 summits, and have the basics, you may already have this stuff.....if so, just hire Sobo there to be your dirtbag hauling bitch:-) Hint, pay him in cheap wine, you can pick up a bottle of Mouton Rothschild, (an empty one) and fill it full of Gallo - he doesn't know the diff anyway, and put the extra $ in the bank. Once he gets good and slobbering drunk, play mountain jeopardy with him and film it, put the film on the internet and make all your money back and even retire from the millions of hits and thousands of dollars google will pay for stupid shit. (Pat posted one of a monkey firing an AK47, I can see this easily surpassing that)
Have fun and be safe. Uhhh, that kind too.

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Guilty here as well. Even after seeing a guy flip and break his ankle.
Heal up Colin, good advice upthread: the mountains aren't going anywhere and will still be there when you are ready:-)
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OMG! OMG OMG!
[video:youtube]


I AM THE 17% (AND SO CAN YOU!!!)
in Spray
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Thanks for the link Slab master, good read. Meantime, the US has become the worlds largest consumer of wine.
http://www.plushasia.com/article/15646
...although if you take out Ivans personal contribution we're only #3.