billcoe
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Posts posted by billcoe
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HI I NEED A PERMIT THANKS.
YES, IS THAT 2011 PERMIT STILL BE AVAILABLE FOR NEXT WEEKEND?
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Stayed in COR site#...hmmmm, forget. Right by Elephant Rock.
ps, didn't get their names...probably the only 2 climbers from Haley Idaho though.
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Handren.
The Supertopo is a good select book. Limited though.A "select" type guide might be best
ST book in use about a week ago on a P2 or 3. I might have the ST book upsidedown but it's easy to read. I'm more likely to take the ST book out as it's light. The Handren book is awesome in all respects except in one:weight:-)
If I walk a mile and a half to climb a 7/9 pitch route where I'm planning to carry our gear up and over, I'm more likely to leave the Handren book in the car, and if the route has a line:-( Hard to go do another route unless you are familiar....grrr.
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Pretty sure that it's scheduled for this fall.
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We're at City of Rocks, just got back to the campsite after climbing that day and then rustling up a dinner at the steakhouse in Alba. We're feeling pretty damned fine and satiated between the superb climbing, weather and companionship. 2 kids come wandering over to our site @6pm with strange looks on their faces......which elicits a "Dudes, we sent the checks in already" response from me as a joke.
They sadly ask "Did you guys see anyone in our campsite today"? (we're 2 campsites away)
"Uhh, No, we've been gone most of the day....why?"
"We went out climbing today, and when we get back all of our stuff has been stolen."
Someone had evidently driven up, tossed their tent and everything in it into a vehicle and booked. These kids looked to have expensive shit (my son had made note of their tent, maybe a Hildenberg), more expensive than I roll, and every damned piece was gone (except the Patagonia clothes on their backs and their gear). Tent, sleeping bags, cooking stuff. I don't know what all else. Everything that they didn't have with them on their person. I figure they'll need a place to stay which is going to be tough as we don't have extra, but I ask, where are you staying tonight, can we help? They said they were just going to drive home as they were from Haley, Id.
After they left, turns out that my son and his buddy had left their keys and wallets in our tent all day. Something that didn't happen again.
It snowed that next AM, so they didn't miss any climbing. Still, it might not be the rudest damned thing ever, but stealing some kids expensive stuff and ruining their climbing trip rates pretty high on the list.
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Shapp!Hola MarkD!
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Is it Headwall or Head Wall? Anyway, as an ongoing community service Sadie May and I headed out there, cleaned it and ran multiple laps on it today. God it feels so good to be pulling in the sun and feeling strong! The ledge right off the ground @10 feet up still has dirt on it if anyone is feeling energetic. It's good to go with one exception, and I had no clue so I wasn't prepared today, the film canister at the belay anchor is empty. So just a heads up if anyone feels like adding some good karma herb for yer bro's....:-)
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LOL, looks "fahqing" awesome!
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It's my role in life. I'm here for ya, man...
LOL!
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good to hear - fun route! seem to recall the first time i did it the only pro i used was the 2 pins
I recall watching that and hoping that a fall would not test the only thing between you and the ground.
But you were styling. Now there is 4 bolts in that section, and you are one of the reasons why:-) Pro inflation:-) It goes at @ 5.7-5.8 until the upper part which takes tiny cams that are good. I saw the next party to climb it after you just traverse right to the visible Headwall anchors 3/4 of the way up ....and thus avoid the 5.10 finish AND also get a TR on The headwall. Teh, it's got to be dry as a babys behind......after it's been changed and powdered of course.
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......She fell to the ground, there may have been a large ledge she struck first, this ledge may be about 7-feet off the ground. The total fall may have been 50-feet or somewhat more (but with 11 bolts maybe it was much more?)
I think she never lost consciousness. She had no open fractured bones. I think she had no serious bleeding. There didn't seem to be any obviously broken bones. She seemed aware and voice responsive the entire time. ....
Holy smokes! Must have been wearing her lucky socks that day....wow. I'd be interested in knowing what caused the fall once it gets figured out. Anyway, congrats on the amazingly fast time getting to care facility and best to her on healing up fast.
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Old news, hot picture.
Miss Universe Canada Finalist Disqualified After Admitting She Was Born a Boy -
Ivan had told me that Sweet Fuckers fixed pins were gone. Yesterday I cleaned and retrobolted and once again, it's a Sweet Fucker although there are bolts not pitons. Tossed a couple extra in for good measure. Tiny to med cams, could 3/8" nuts, 4 draws and you're good. Tiny cams for the top crack would be real helpful.
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I'll see your congrats and raise you a "HOLY CRAP!"
Way to yank and crank! -
What a thread revivalJon:-)
Anyway,it's about time someone stepped up and got those bullshit 3rd world money wasting schools shut down. It was a stupid idea and no one should be allowed to try such bodacious things anyway. We have enough problems in this country trying to get a decent latte without wasting small sums in squalid 3rd work countries where people don't make as much in a year what we pay for a windshirt or a pack.
And it's damned nice to see that not only has that stupid idea been trashed but at least Krakauer has personally benefited financially from this "expose" in a big way, and not the guy doing the scary and actual work who was putting his dick wayyy out there for guys like Krakauer to safety stomp on from behind the curtains. JK's on the way to being a 1 percenter. Woot! Good to see the money get consolidated. It's the American way baby. Trash those who "do" and "create" and make a buck while doing it.
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You're sayin' this is good shit then. See, there's another surprise.
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LOL! Nice! Buds lookin' ancient there:-)
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Here's my wifes Puddin' Jack Russell Terrier borrowing this very nice yet accommodating German Shepard's ball. God she's fun. But I don't take her out to public cliffs.
I have a pic of her with some Mt Goats, she ignores them....unlike all the worlds mice/rats/rodents that she feels compelled to dispatch.
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After ~40 meter of soloing WI3 to a WI3+ step
Yeah... lets rope up here.
You dont have the rope?
I thought you had the rope!
Where's the rope?
...
Shit.
This sounds like the start of the "Flyin' Ivan" story. Geoff and he are out now, but I suspect we'll get a recap of it when he gets back.
Probably your 2nd biggest surprise watching Ivan fly unroped? Ivan tells that pretty good. Dude used up at least 2 maybe 3 lives right there.Most recent of note:
Just got back from RR couple days back, some ladies first lead in RR crack right next to us...she gets up a bit and says "there's a snake in the crack here"...."Yeah? Whats it look like"? She describes a rattle snake, so several of us tell her. Then she proceeds to just climb out on the face and around that part of the crack and on up!
He partner follows and sure as shit: rattler he said. Never rattled, nor did it other them. 74 degree day, shade. -
Website says PU coated Nylon. It's a whole tent made out of tent floor.
Says it's 2lb 8 oz too....
I like the awesome side zip access of the BD, but this looks like it would do better in high winds. Anyone know? 2 lbs 8 oz? That a misprint? Sick. I have underwear that weight more....not when they are clean of course.
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Aluminum also does not have a fatigue limit like steel does.
I'd suspect that Dane knows more about metals than the rest of us combined, but till he shows up: I'd never really thought of it before. Aluminum definatly will work harden and break. Take a pop can and wiggle it back and forth a bit...you'll see. But there is a lot of Al configurations, as I'm sure some Boeing engineer will soon step up to describe for us:-) However, I suspect that the reason al. doesn't get the crap SS does for pons is cause the al tend to be made for non-technical stuff...ie, walking on glaciers. Thus, it tends to not be subjected to the same forces, and when it breaks, is generally on less technical (and less fatal) ground. I've heard of the al center bars breaking (often when stepping on rocks, but also just due to fatigue and age), but not the al front points falling off. I'd avoid al for front pointing too. Anyone have any thoughts?
hmmm, something new to consider.
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BD Nut Tool
in Spray
Hey allTo start off I wanted to tell you a bit about my climbing resume. I am an East Coast trad climber with limited experience, and you will never spot me clipping a bolt. I've redpointed tons of routes in the gym, and people seem to really like my enthusiasm for the climbing culture when I yell beta like "Let's go! and Venga!".
Ok, so back to why I am really here. I am currently sitting at my desk with 2 broken ankles because I took a 40ft whipper when usin my BD nut tool as a sky hook. I ran out of protection at the crux sequence and had to aid through a very technical 5.9+ section while bypassing three bolts. The improvised sky hook worked well until I tried to use it in a "stein pull" placement, and it surprisingly fractured, leading to my fall.
BD has been unresponsive to my requests for them to pay for my medical treatment, even though it was an obvious result of gear failure. What do you guys think?
I wonder what Jesse Jackson would say about this? It was, after all, a BLACK nut tool that fucked up a (incredibly pale, clearly a sun deprived Northwesterner or a Minnesota lad) white boy....hmmmm....Yeah, didn't think he'd speak on this one.
Jesse? Where are ya babe???? .......WAIT! HERE HE IS HERE HE IS!!!!
Thats all you need to know. If you need to borrow Buddy the bong hitting bears imaginary bong to recoup, maybe we could work something out. You could do a nut tool hooking seminar for us. Here is is drawing too deep, again, and trying to stifle a cough. Again.
BTW, Steve Byrne related that he got 3/4 of the way up Mescalito on his first solo one winter long time back and needed to make 2 hook moves in a row. Tragically, (over used word, it wasn't really a tragedy:-) he was standing on his only hook. So he swapped out his hook for his fifi.....
....then took a 40 footer when it slipped. Might have already passed the statute of limitations for a lawsuit though.
Way to be creative bra! Maybe ya need some gore pics of the bone sticking out 4 inches to troll a few more in. A for effort still. Nice. What else is happening on Minnesota climbing.com these days? Long winters up there eh?? LOL!
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Hi everyone,
I need to buy a good hard shell jacket for an upcoming climb, and need some advice. Having never owned one before, should the hard shell jacket fit tight or should it be a little looser? I am in between a L and XL and I don't want to shoot myself in the foot with the wrong size. Thanks,
You don't say what kind of climb....lots of variety there, or where it will be (conditions like wet, freezing butt-assed cold and otherwise dry, lots of rough rock, etc etc). So with that lack of info for a start, I'll add to the good advice above:
I had read Danes stoke on the First Ascent (Eddie Bauer) Frontpoint Jacket a while back and wound up buying 2. (I bought the 2nd when they discontinued it). While I understand his stokage, I'd say that the Mountain Hardware Kepler I just got the bro deal on outperforms it as a rain jacket, and it's a "soft"(er) shell. http://www.mountainhardwear.com/Men%27s-Kepler%E2%84%A2-Jacket/OM4151,default,pd.html
If it was me and I was starting again, I'd touch base and most likely 99% believe that I'd buy one of BillA's NW Alpine quality US made products, pay full price, which seems damned reasonable given that Mt hardware is made in China and NW Alpines stuff is US made. (it's a long story why I got the MThardware jacket) I'll be heading his way for a pair of pants soon. Email them per link below and ask the question. Let us know what you choose to do, I'm curious.
Click here or the ad to the right
Good luck on the climb.
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Climbed yesterday am and we drove straight thru getting into the sack at 4am.
My youngest
Same on first gear lead.
Damned good times. Most of it was cause these kids can belay perfect, and were soooooo Stoked!!!
Sobo's Updates...
in Spray
Posted
Heading to missile range of Iran...who will be angry as hornets once the Israelis attack this fall. I'd make sure you know where the best- aka nearest, bomb shelter is at all times. I'm serious.
Looks like a great challenge for you Sobo, have fun, don't forget to write!