billcoe
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Posts posted by billcoe
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The Dmm Bugette weighs about what a piece of light tinfoil does and works that size. (7.5mm min)
http://www.amazon.com/DMM-Bugette-by/dp/B000T034ZE
When I bought my 9.1 I bought 2 and clipped them to the rope bag. Since then, other devices are able to handle that sized rope better. The newer BD ATC guide has the autolocking thing, for instance, and is an excellent device which goes down to 7.7mm
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Regardless of the issues, I'd like to see the schools continue and expand. It's cheap, effective and powerful juju.
As far as this:
Again, do you have anything other than innuendo regarding Krakauer's poor journalistic skills?Krakauers earlier attacks and lies against Anatoli Boukreev, no matter if written in ignorance or ineptitude, were enough for me to never be too concerned with believing his integrity and truthfulness of his later stories. I think you can still read and enjoy them, but as far as them being truthful...uhhh. No.
regards to all:
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Closest to PDX with bolt clipping even in marginal weather is probably Broughtons Bluff or Ozone. Both have some descent gear routes too and are real close since you only have 1 day.
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That put a smile on my face. Thanks for sharing it Rudy! It was enjoyed:-)
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meh, they lost me at
"This style of climbing requires powerful moves, intense focus" -
Awesome is utilized too much these days, but that's awesome! Thanks for sharing it with us. Wow!
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It's like this classic song Bryan. Older than dirt perhaps, still germane. Hope the info was useful.
[video:youtube]
More:
Oly sent this in the 60's
TILT!!!! Tilting the camera to make it look hard has been happening for years.
Hey Lucky G -sorry dude, it's just a big MFing ground squirrel that wants to be a gopher when it grows up and it's sayin', "I sent that RIGHT after I built it beotches!"
Shhhh, secret Oregon project, still virgin:-)
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Oh, one more thing you should know. REI has 20% off coupons. So $95 is actually high $70 something.
LOL, not doing the math and don't remember.
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As far as I know from what I have read and looked at from pictures and peoples usage descriptions, ropemans and this widget from petzl cannot be released when under tension as they are a cam device. Are you trying to kill your partner in the crevasse that you just hauled up under a lip?
I can see how said widget would be useful for rockclimbing(pack hauling), but for crevasse rescue? Ug, no. Already are carrying gear that does this function anyways. Why would I carry yet another heavier piece of gear? Its 2oz's for Pete's sake.
Hey Wastrel, I'm not fully sure what you are saying about going to Napa. Do they have some kind of ulta-light bearings with the concave we all like so that the rope tracks in it? And we should go get that? It weighs less than 2oz? Can you post a link and a picture of this so the rest of us can get up to speed.
As far as your statement that you can't be backing off one of these in a Z-pulley situation, why couldn't you just pull the rope a fraction of an inch up and easily just release the cam to lower so that your buddy doesn't get his head whacked on the lip of the crevasse, as you say? I will admit I just got mine and have only used it 2 times, neither to pull a dude out of a crevasse:-)...hopefully never have too...but I didn't even try to set it up for that either. Why can't you release just the cam? I'm not clear on that either.
$95 bucks...Hey goobers, take a standard pulley apart, go down to NAPA, buy a closed sealed bearing and save yourself $50. If NAPA is too far for your butt to go, and you are sitting your ass down at the computer go to Grainger.com, or MSC.com, or Bergbearing.com, or ... mcmaster.com and buy a damned closed sealed bearing.
Or be smarter yet and buy a cheaper, LIGHTER, NON SEALED bearing that is just as good. Oh no, once every 10 years you might have to grease the bearing! Of course no one actually uses their pullies except once in a blue moon so the one grease job that they got in the factory will be perfectly good for any crevasse rescue you will participate in in the next 30 years.
NOW, if you are a guide and are teaching folks ALL THE TIME and therefore USING your pullies ALL THE TIME, then yes, it might make sense to go to a closed bearing system. If you are not a guide, don't waste your $$$ on a closed bearing. Get the cheaper bearings. Likewise the DRY OPEN bearings will have higher throughput in terms of EFFICIENCY than any closed bearing, but will not last as long.
You did notice that Petzl posted their bearings "efficiency". They did this because its piss poor and therefore made it a selling point since few know better!
If Petzl were actually selling these buggers to actual CLIMBERS instead of RESUCE Personnel they would be selling open higher efficiency bearings.
Petzl must be laughing all the way to the bank every time some ignorant sucker buys one of these things.
Don't be a stupid ignorant sucker.
PS. 2 biners/garda hitch act as a far better ratchet, therefore don't need another piece of equipment via the ropeman. Heck a prussic works fine, and it releases unlike a ropeman or this overpriced hunk of junk from Petzl.
Have you actually used this? Seem to me that the friction you'd get would be crazy high. To the point where you'd just unrope and leave yer buddy stuck upside down in the crevasse. If that's the case, it might be better to map out a route that doesn't involve any big crevasses and leave all this junk at home? Or be like John Frieh and go so fast (and light) over them that the crevasses don't feel yer weight:-)
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LOL, like Frank Sacherer in aggro mode. The story goes: "On one occasion he was way above Beck's belay stance without a single intermediate piton. Beck anxiously called up to him to put in a piton. Sacherer spat back, 'Shut up, you chicken sh#t.'" Or on yelling at Tom Gerughty who had been climbing for about a month and was trying to follow him up "Crack of Despair" in Yosemite: "GERUGHTY, IF YOU STEP ON THAT BOLT I'M GONNA PULL YOU OFF GODDMANIT".
BTW, you handled that great. I use to love to fight. But as you age, you learn it gets much more serious than on the schoolyard, and you are but inches or moments away from serving a life sentence in the penitentiary. It makes you tend to reevaluate. And it gets there quickly. It is (hopefully) likely that this guy will hear about his horrible behavior from his buddies, and the next time he sees you he will feel both grateful and happy that you acted as you did in not kicking his ass.
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this story sounds bullshit. Some guy at your friends party picked on you for 45 minutes and nobody said anything (including your friend, the host) and you just sat there taking it without fighting back or leaving while everyone watched?
A) you're an idiot
B) your friend is an asshole
We are all picking option C Rob: you have the reading skillz of a 3 year old.
Oh this guy was a total lone ranger, everyone was telling him to back off. A couple dudes told him that they were going to kick the shit out of him if he didn't cut it out. The entire time I was just trying to diffuse the situation, introducing myself, asking him what his problem with me was (you're a faggot). Telling him to mellow, no one is trying to fight right now.
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If anyone hasn't seen it yet, check out the Micro (not Mini) Traxion for this job. It's the total shizz!
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IMO Black Diamond Camalots are better cams. Not just better for the price as they are cheaper: better.
As far as the "deformation" thing noted above goes, outside of seeing one or 2 pictures of the smallest Metolius cams (the aid climbing pieces) being broken when someone took a free climbing whipper on one, I've never seen one of those deform either. Cheaper. Lighter. Better than Dragons.
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Gotta say I don't buy all the [big] govt spending arguments:
I can understand why you won't be able to buy it now. It's gone up to $138,322 since I posted that earlier today. Maybe this clock is broken? http://www.usdebtclock.org/
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I feel the need to resurrect this dead thread. Anyone else still mad at the Clinton administration's weak sauce? I am.
You mad about this at all? http://www.usdebtclock.org/
It's the US debt clock. Clinton had that under control. Bush went crazy and fired it up, then Obama as done everything in his power to make it spin faster. The wrong way. Each and every US taxpayer now owes $138,311. EACH. We seem unable to even slow it down by spending less or taxing more. So we keep borrowing and borrowing even knowing that most of the $ we are borrowing is just going down the toilet via worthless and wasteful Big Government projects.
...what was the question again?
Oh, right. no.
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Getting senile and barely remember this given it is all so last season at this point. Not even sure I remember what it was though maybe I vaguely remember a nut and cam of some sort. It wasn't there when I did the route a week earlier though, but I'd still be willing to label it as 'Stewart Memorial Rescue Material' if I do come across it in the basement this year.
From the wayback machine, (I don't remember any of this).
hobo spiders are asian i thinkEuropean dude. Eurospiders. Eurotrash. Not Asian, although they may be heading that way next.
You got the rest of it right but forgot that there are also 2 kinds of aliens inhabiting the earth right now. The big ones and the Greys. Greys are the little ones, which the big ones eat, and they eat an occasional human as well.
And you call yourself a teacher.....
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Jim also has Stewart's stuff - young Chris pulled it off and gave to Jim. Evidently a #7 stopper held the fall and is now fixed as a testament to both the strength of stoppers, and as a way to commemorate Stewarts fall.
Praise be it wasn't an Alien, or you'd have been lunch eh?
Damn RIGHTEOUS CHRIS!
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/715302/Re_blownout#Post715302
Looks like the nut was left in at this point. 8/2007
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Looks like a good job on the info presentations. Thanks for sharing it Paul.
This looks interesting:
in preparation of this summer's release of Moolack: A Rock-Climbing Guide to in Tim Olson's 5th edition of Portland Rock Climbs,As the 4th edition just came out, this has to be the companion version with all these rumored new climbing areas scattered all around in them. Looks like it's time as any day now given that it's April, it will be summer:-)
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Oh I don't care, and I more than understand why you named it that. I guess I will just call it something else if ever go out there with my 12yr old son and climb it together, since he always really likes to know the names. A fair amount of people would probably find the name rather distasteful is all I am saying.
I understand. The Mayor, aka Woo Li master named this route below as well. This is Jeff Thomas's picture of my son fighting the blackberries (ALL of the greenery in this picture is blackberries) following the first ascent.
Route name: Child Abuse . LOL, Jim cracks me up.
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Sweet Fucker... hmmm really you couldn't come up with a better name?
Apparently knot, but feel free to pitch some route names out there. The Mayor of Beacon came off of it, looked up and enthusiastically and loudly exclaimed: "SWEET FUCKER".
Thus, named.
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save a quirk of fate, my alcoholism, in its youthful phase, would have found me flash frozen in the back of an appalachian coal train - fast enough?
Don't need booze for that.
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We've stolen a lot of foods and done OK, but the Vietnamese have stolen *cough** borrowed* some (French, Chinese are the 2) and absolutely mastered them. Wow!
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discuss.
italy, france, china = sauces aplenty = civilized
somalia, sudan, syria = not so much?
You need to get out of the house more, the horn of Africa, despite otherwise being a shithole in many respects, has some amazing sauces on foods. Syria....sauces...uhhh.....
good hashish that they get from Lebanon? (ie, blond Lebanese! Woot!)
..nevermind...LOL
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I want a 70m deal...
2 questions, what kind of a deal, (ie, size, type etc etc) and what's your real name? (sorry, I don't like talking to pretend people). Mine is my avatar.
Bill
[TR] HOOD - Cathedral Spire -"Ravine" (possible FA) 5/10/2012
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
Can't add much to that!
...maybe...?